Chain and Coupler qestion

[Ron Dickey]

I do not have any welding Equipment at this time so I will be bolting on the Chain.
Do I get longer bolts for the back holes and using large washers bolt the chain to the catch??

How does that go.

Thanks to Steve for the info from the Califonia DMV
at http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=11465

do you under stand what I am saying?

Oh the coupler has 2 holes on top and 4 on the sides I have holes in the tung 2 on top and the 2 back ones do I need to drill out the 2 front ones two?

Ron ?

[Dale M.]

Yes use every hole in coupler.... Drill out holes not presently drilled...

Use appropriate length bolts at least grade 5, and yes you should put washers on bolts before inserting them through chains and tongue... Also use either nylock nuts or lock washers on bolts...

Appropriate length means at least 1 thread showing after bolt is tight.

Dale

[CHUCKLEHEAD69]

read on your coupler. mine said not to use the 2 on top(not to drill and use bolts) it said use the ones on the side.but i bolted the side ones and button welded tthe two top holes.proly over kill welding the top ones but thats the main connection and i didnt want it to past me up on the road.also grade 5 bolts will work but i use grade 8 alot stronger.

[Cutterpup]

Just an observation! I tow moblie offices that are 12 feet wide and up to 60 feet long. Yes just a we bit larger than a teardrop... The hitch I use is rated at 35,000 lbs and is mounted in a 2 inch by 2 inch receiver on the truck(tractor) and everything is conected with a single 5/8 dia steel pin.

So when you think that drilling out every single bolt hole and using grade 5 hardware for a 1000 lb to 3000 lb teardrop is the right thing to do please explain to me just what is overkill, as I tow 30,000 lbs trailers by a single 5/8 dia steel pin?

Dan

[Jiminsav]

DO NOT DRILL the holes vertically through the top of the coupler..bad move..it weakens the metal in a place you don't want to be weak in.just use the 2 side holes for your bolts. and don't over torgue the suckers..

[sdtripper2]

Ron:

It seems hard to find exactly what you want for information.

I would NOT make new holes in your trailer beams in the thick
or weight bearing sides of the beams. I would do as this picture below
shows.

If your rebuilt trailer frame looks like the picture below. You might
drill holes in the back of the hitch like the chain shown.

I am not an expert but if I were you I would call an trailer hitch installer
or two in your area and get some free advice or maybe stop in. You may
be able to buy the chains and the bolts there and have all your answers. It
does seem reasonable that if you got bolts and washers stronger than the
chains than you should be ok. Remember the chains should be able to hold
twice the weight of your trailer.

[asianflava]

I would NOT to make new holes in your trailer beams in the thick
or weight bearing sides of the beams. I would do as this picture below
shows.

That would be kinda hard to do on a single tube tongue.

[sdtripper2]

That would be kinda hard to do on a single tube tongue

asianflava:
Of course you are right. So lets try this view of a single tube typical hookuP?


Safety Chains

Note: The chains in this picture are not crossed as recommended
as well as not relatively tight.
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Spring loaded Safety Cables

Spring Loaded Safety Cables Instructions
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HEX HEAD BOLTS
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