stabilizer jack questions

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stabilizer jack questions

Postby Scooter » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:23 pm

Is there a way to lower this type of jack without plunking the trailer down all at one time? http://www.etrailer.com/p-82300.htm Bolted one under my teardrop just to try it out. Only thing I could figure is tapping the lever with a hammer, but it seems to release all at once. Am I missing something? Would like to use them to level, maybe jack up one side as much as 3-4 inches, if needed...that's a long drop!
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Postby doug hodder » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:33 pm

Scooter....I use those jacks and have good luck with them, others don't like them for a variety of reasons. I like how they can tuck up under the frame and not get damaged. Something that will help is to have a couple of shim blocks of wood with you so that you can place them under the jack so that it won't drop the full 3-4 inches. Stack some blocks under the jack so you only have to lift an inch or so. I usually have some blocks and a board or 2 to level the trailer up anyway, lots less strain on a jack if you can lift the trailer into approximate position with a board under the tire....I can use them for wheel chocks or with the jacks. Back to your original question...no, they can't drop slowly, sort of an all or nothing thing. Another option, scissor jacks, either way, remember to fold the Atwood or collapse the scissor jack before moving. Either one can be torn up... Just my experience..Doug
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Postby Dale M. » Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:21 pm

Use a screw jack on front tongue ...... When setting up... Disconnect trailer from hitch and lower tongue to below level... Set rear jacks to desired height and then relevel trailer with front screw jack..... To remove jacks and stow for travel, screw tongue jack down till there is no pressure on stabilizer and telescope them up and fold them up and the raise tongue back up and make "hitch" connection...

This process takes all effort and strain off stabilizer jacks....

Also some "shim boards" under tires are great help if ground is really uneven...

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Postby doug hodder » Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:36 pm

Dale is spot on with his info...for me, unfortunately, due to the vehicle hitch I have and height on the trailer frame, it doesn't work for me all the time, so I have to use some shims. I think the real clue here is they are called stabilizers...and their intent isn't to do a lot of lifting, just stabilizing. If you do serious lifting with the Atwoods, you can tweek the jack handle holes and they won't slip inside each other. Just happened to the neighbor that I sold my Coleman tent trailer to...Doug
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Postby Scooter » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:13 am

Think I'll just have to experiment with the technique. Good thing is, these would save space vs. carrying a loose scissors jack. Will have to see how easy it is (or not) to center the bubbles using Dale's method. Also need to get the handle that's made for it; I've already tweaked the holes a bit using a makeshift handle. :oops:

Maybe one of these days I'll spring for permanent mount scissors jack, but for now will try to make these work.
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Postby Nobody » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:15 pm

You might want to take a look at these - http://tinyurl.com/yhlehu - from JC Whitney. They don't stow quite as unobtrusively as the kind you mention but they're lots easier to operate & they'll lift around 700lbs each. Think they run around $60 or so a pair & I believe JC Whitney has free shipping for orders over $50 for rest of this year??
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Postby mikeschn » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:18 pm

That's what we use, Nobody... one on each corner. We love em...

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Postby Nobody » Sun Dec 17, 2006 5:49 pm

Us too Mike. Here we were set up at MJ's LCG in Oct - Those jacks are great!

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Postby mfkaplan » Sun Dec 17, 2006 6:36 pm

I mounted one on my tongue. Originally there was an old very rusted one inside the channel under the tongue. It worked on a spring. I didn't have the power move it. This type was the only thing that would work to lift the tongue. the way the side braces are on there is no room for a swivle jack to swing up out of the way. No hole in the tongue to insert the crank up type. Getting it up is no problem and dropping it down on the ball is fine. The problem is bringing it down to level it when parked. I'm going to have to rig up some thing for it to drop on that dosent take up much room. I thought about a screw jack.I will need to solve this before I go out next.

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Postby Phil & Ningning » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:22 pm

I just found this deal on the good ones.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-jacks/light-trailer-jacks.htm
I may order a pair at that price.
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Postby WarPony » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:28 pm

Scooter, I have two of those on the rear of my TTT and I really like them. I guess the clunking down doesn't bother me so much but I chose them because of the sturdy construction. Before I had the Atwoods, I was using regular jackstands.............

Heck, I just ordered two more for the front of mine, thanks for the link to etrailers website.


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Postby Nobody » Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:43 am

Phil - That's a great price on the light trailer jacks. May just have to order a coupl'a sets for my 'next' TD project :thinking: :roll: . Wonder how much they charge for shipping :QM :money:
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Postby Endo » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:36 pm

Nobody wrote:Wonder how much they charge for shipping :QM :money:


I just ordered 2 sets. Shipping to Ohio (business address) was only $13.55. Not too bad.
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