.024 aluminum for roof or side skin

[legend lime]

I am sure(well fairly sure) that this is in this site some where or it has been talked about a lot before but I am new to this site and I am still learning how to get around it. My question is? has anyone on this site ever used the .024 aluminum that is used for roof replacement on trailers? Or do any of you know of someone that has used it and how did it work out for their project? The reason I asking is that I am having a problem finding 5x12 sheets for my roof here in GA. I am thinking of using it on the roof and 4x10 .032 on the sides. both of these I can get here with out having them Fedx's or UPS which will save me some big bucks on shipping.

Also how do you paste the Emoticons into your message??

Thanks

[Nitetimes]

The trailer roofing is used on the roof of a lot of trailers over 4'. It works fine but having some sort of underlayment is a good idea.

Just click on the emote and it will be in your post.

You have to click on it as you go or they all end up at the end of your post then you have to move them around. You can't just put your cursor where you want one and click on it after you are done typing, it will automatically go to the end of all text.

[legend lime]

Thanks Rich
I was thinking of that same thing coming home from the All-rite RV supply store today, maybe the underlayment that is used for the pergo floor systems?

[nubwon]

I used the .024 over my entire trailer, roof and sides. I have plywood backing under all of it tho. I got it from Wells Cargo and they shipped it on their scheduled delivery to a dealer near here. It didn't cost me anything for shippping. So far I haven't had any trouble with it..

Terry.

[legend lime]

Thanks Terry for the info,

this is what the .024 will be going over after I get the 1/8" panels installed on the roof. the sides are 3/4"

[Sonetpro]

I bought mine from http://saf.com/ They have 5x12. They are in Atlanta. If you order over 100lbs they ship it free. I also ordered all my extrusions from them. They shipped them 16-18' long so I didn't have to have any seams in the trim. Great service. I ordered it on a Friday and it was delivered the next Tuesday. They also sell it anodized.

[Esteban]

Steve T.

I looked at the http://www.saf.com website and found
60" x 120" .4 alum. sheets at https://walden.saf.com/safcustomerweb/orderorigin/OOFrame.aspx?Action=BeginSheetQuote

I recently read that the FishInn is 63' wide. How did you make 60" alum. cover 63" of width.

Do you have a handy alum. stretcher?

Esteban aka Steve B.

edit: I just called SAF and talked to John. 5' x 12' is not a stock item. He told me it would cost a $ 700 upcharge--- ouch, ouch, ouch!

At that price Filon begins to look reasonabe.

[Sonetpro]

Steve T.

I looked at the http://www.saf.com website and found
60" x 120" .4 alum. sheets at https://walden.saf.com/safcustomerweb/orderorigin/OOFrame.aspx?Action=BeginSheetQuote

I recently read that the FishInn is 63' wide. How did you make 60" alum. cover 63" of width.

Do you have a handy alum. stretcher?

Esteban aka Steve B.

edit: I just called SAF and talked to John. 5' x 12' is not a stock item. He told me it would cost a $ 700 upcharge--- ouch, ouch, ouch!

At that price Filon begins to look reasonabe.

I have 2" aluminum strap on the edges. I had to order .063 to get the 5 wide.

[Sonetpro]

[Esteban]

SteveT, Thank you for the information on the thickness of alum. sheet you ordered from SAF.com to get lengths longer than 10 ft. and how you "stretched" a 5 ft. sheet to cover a 5 ft. 3 in. wide TD with 2 in. edge tirm on each side.

I made a trial alum. sheet order from SAF.com:
1 sheet of 0.063 x 60" x 144" ($2.78/sq. ft.) $166.80 (front and roof).
1 sheet of 0.040 x 60" x 120" ($1.76/sq. ft.) $88.00 (hatch).
2 sheets of 0.040 x 48" x 120" ($1.76/sq. ft.) $140.80 (sides).

The total cost today from SAF.com would be $395.60 to skin a 5 ft. x 10 ft. TD with alum. sheet. I didn't figure trim pieces into the estimate. This is over a 100 lb. order, so shipping would be free.

I'm also considering using Filon for some, or all, of my TD's skin. It costs $3/sq. ft. from RV Surplus http://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalog/display.php?product_id=1879

Thanks for your generous help,

Steve B. aka Esteban

[Sonetpro]

Esteban,
That looks exactly like my sheet order. Except I ordered mine clear anodized. Like I said I used 2" strap for the trim, I used 1/2" leg x 3/4" leg angle for the wall edge. The strap sits on top the 3/4" leg and the sheet.

[Creamcracker]

SteveT, Thank you for the information on the thickness of alum. sheet you ordered from SAF.com to get lengths longer than 10 ft. and how you "stretched" a 5 ft. sheet to cover a 5 ft. 3 in. wide TD with 2 in. edge tirm on each side.

I made a trial alum. sheet order from SAF.com:
1 sheet of 0.063 x 60" x 144" ($2.78/sq. ft.) $166.80 (front and roof).
1 sheet of 0.040 x 60" x 120" ($1.76/sq. ft.) $88.00 (hatch).
2 sheets of 0.040 x 48" x 120" ($1.76/sq. ft.) $140.80 (sides).

The total cost today from SAF.com would be $395.60 to skin a 5 ft. x 10 ft. TD with alum. sheet. I didn't figure trim pieces into the estimate. This is over a 100 lb. order, so shipping would be free.

I'm also considering using Filon for some, or all, of my TD's skin. It costs $3/sq. ft. from RV Surplus http://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalog/display.php?product_id=1879

Thanks for your generous help,

Steve B. aka Esteban

How difficult is it to work with the Filon? How easy is it to cut? Is there another source for the glue -- it seems pretty expensive from that place and I can't imagine one would need a whole bucket for a teardrop! What do they mean when they say you can see the threads in the Filon? I lived in Elkhart for a little over a year back in the 80's when we first came to the States -- sure wish I still lived there no!

[vipercairo]

Steve...

Just me again. Finally started the tear; and am also thinking it may be cost effective to cover with aluminum. Your's is 63" wide... mine is 65 ½" wide... and exactly 12' X 1" nose to tail... but I also see SAF extrusion that is 3" X 1" and even bigger. My question is: did you have to anneal the extrusion or was it fairly bendable without making wrinkles?

#2. Where did you get your porch light? (I like it)

#3. Was the aluminum siding difficult to deal with, i.e. thin enough to cut and finish without specialized tools. I don't know if the .063 is thin enough to work with easily... What adhesive did you use to attach it?

[Esteban]

At the website http://www.filon.com you can learn more about Filon and request a free sample. I did. They mailed me brochures and a sample piece of Special White .045" Filoplated Smooth Exterior Panel. Their brochure: "Filon is an RV sidewall finish made from fiberglass reinforcement, polyester resin and a gel coat surface finish." It's nearly smooth with a subtle texture from the fiberglass reinforcing threads that show thru the surface.

I learned about using Filon to skin a TearDrop by reading Larry and Dianne Sorensen's outbackteardrop website http://www.outbackteardrop.com. They built a heavy duty TearDrop camping trailer for off roading and used Filon for the sides, roof, and under the floor.

I like the look and feel of Filon. It comes in 8' 6" wide sheets, at least from RV Surplus, so half a sheet is about the right height for skinning sides. Using Filon for a roof on a 5 ft. or so wide TD would would leave you with considerable cut off waste. Larry and Dianne used cut offs to line the inside of their galley.

I'm 6'4" tall. I want a comfy TD sleeping area about 5 ft. wide and 7 ft. long to fit a queen sized mattress inside. Maybe even a little wider like Steve T's 5'3" wide FishInn.

Filon, though more expensive than aluminium sheets, gives you greater freedom to customize the size of your TearDrop. Using it could free you from design limitations imposed by the available sizes of aluminium sheets.

I have yet to decide how I'll skin my TD. Aluminium sheet, Filon, fiberglass, and epoxy painted plywood are all under consideration.

Steve B.

[Sonetpro]

Steve...

Just me again. Finally started the tear; and am also thinking it may be cost effective to cover with aluminum. Your's is 63" wide... mine is 65 ½" wide... and exactly 12' X 1" nose to tail... but I also see SAF extrusion that is 3" X 1" and even bigger. My question is: did you have to anneal the extrusion or was it fairly bendable without making wrinkles?

#2. Where did you get your porch light? (I like it)

#3. Was the aluminum siding difficult to deal with, i.e. thin enough to cut and finish without specialized tools. I don't know if the .063 is thin enough to work with easily... What adhesive did you use to attach it?

Hi Carl,
Haven't heard from you in a while. Glad to see you getting started.
Yes I had to anneal the angle to get it around the curves. It is alot more intimidating than it is dificult. Once you do a couple of pieces you'll be a pro. I found that when I was forming it it was best to lay a piece of scrap 1x2 oak on it and work it with a deadblow hammer. (no hammer marks) I think the 1" would be a bit too much. I did 3/4" on the hatch and had to go to 1/16 thick cause the 1/8" just wasn't going to do it without wrinkling. Even with the 1/16 I got some wrinkles but after I formed the curve I was able to work them out by putting it between two pieces of scrap and working it.

I got my porch light from a marine dealer it is a stainless stern light for a boat. I liked it because it is somewhat flush with the side of the tear.

The aluminum wasn't hard to work with I used .040 on the sides and hatch and .063 on the roof. The .063 was a bear to get around the front radius. as the tear is wider than the aluminum I screwed 1x3's in the top of the walls about every 8" spanning the aluminum and just worked it down.
I used outdoor carpet adhesive to glue the panels on.

This is the first time I have worked with metal sheet. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

I bought some long metal sheers from Lowes to cut it and they went though it like buttah. I used a rotozip to trim it and cutout doors, light's and other opening's.