To brake or not to brake

[Trackstriper]

I could use some insight from the practical world regarding trailer brakes. I've read what I could on various forum threads pro and con, but haven't decided which way to go yet.

I plan on making a TTT which I'm initially estimating to weigh about 1100-1200 lbs. I will tow it with my full-sized work van which has a GVWR of about 6500 lbs (late model Dodge 1500). The van does stay pretty full with work tools and I'm regularly running at about 6500 lbs. Sometimes I pull a small 4x6 foot Pace enclosed cargo trailer with 1500 lbs loaded trailer weight. I don't know it's there...can't even see it. No apparent problems braking.

Here's the "however": Since I need to purchase an axle (leaning heavy toward the Flexiride for its adjustability) should I buy it with 7" electric brakes since the cost is not that much more and retrofitting at a later time would be more costly? Part of me says not to worry, I won't be towing this trailer everyday so my risk exposure is somewhat limited and the brakes add one more level of complexity. That is, maybe keeping it simple stupid works here.

I read some post indicating something to the effect that I might only need the brakes one stop out of 15,000 but trying to determine when that stop will occur can be tricky to say the least. Brakes on all six wheels will allow me, in theory, to stop in a shorter distance. And I understand that a moderate sized car with a 1000 lb trailer would be helped with trailer brakes to a greater degree. I just have a larger tow rig than what most of you have.

How effective are the 7" brakes?

I'd appreciate some feeback and wisdom on this issue as I'd like to get an axle ordered but don't want to spend money unnecessarily. Thanks much.

[pgwilli]

What is the price difference to add brakes?

Even if you don't buy a controller and use them yourself, you might want to sell that 'first tear' to someone with a smaller TV someday...one or two folks around here have perfected their designs on round two (or three, or ...).

O.K. I'm a buyer not a builder, but for my tow vehicle, I'd need brakes to tow any useful load.
Just a thought...

Oh yeah, the brakes on my tear with a Dexter axle are pretty darn effective...

[Trackstriper]

I'm looking at about $150 additional for brakes with the Flexiride axle vs. $110 for brakes with a Dexter #9 axle. My instict is that the the Flexiride has several advantages, axle wise. The price of the axles without brakes is similar, before freight. I'd have to get the Flexiride shipped in, while I can order the Dexter from a dealer 10 miles from my house and not have freight charges. I'm just a little concerned about the ride height and getting the starting angle right as my trailer sidewalls will be at the centerline of the tires, so it's more complicated than simply adjusting the fender location. This is where the Flexiride's adjustability would come in handy. If it were a production trailer.....

[paddlehead]

Trackstriper,

Recently "finished" our TD and have now decided to add brakes. I bought a 2000# Flexride axle without brakes, so now have to retrofit to the drum type hubs in addition to purchasing the brakes and controller. Even if you don't buy the brakes with your axle, I would suggest you order with hubs/drums ready for brakes. That way, if/when you decide to add brakes, you wont have the added expense of replacing the hubs (about $115/pair, plus shipping, for the 2000# Flexride). I don't know if the brake hub/drum assembly costs any more than the hubs without brakes, but, if they do, I suspect it's not $115 more.

Don

[PaulC]

Trackstriper, with the amount of doubt you've shown just by posting this question I'd be fitting brakes. Cheap insurance, safer etc, etc, etc.
Cheers
Paul

[Bernoulli]

I don't yet have a teardrop, but I have extensive experience pulling a light trailer - up to 1500 pounds - with and without brakes. They are essential if you get off the highway on to dirt roads or if the road is slick. When things go bad, you want to keep the trailer behind you. Trailer brakes will do just that. Also, if you drive anywhere near as fast as I do, you'll want the extra stopping power on the highway. They will also quickly stop fishtailing (I used to get it when going past a semi going the opposite direction at highway speeds).

[emiller]

Brakes are nice, if you have to panic stop it's really good insurance. Just that little bit of weight pushing you adds to your stopping distance.

[halfdome, Danny]

I have a Dexter torsion axle and I was doing fine without brakes. Ed Ester who has a vast knowledge in teardrop construction (35 at last count) strongly advised me to add brakes and he was right. I have more control now when braking than before. It wasn't hard to retrofit with brakes but it was somewhere around $400 - $500 including the brake controller etc. If you can get your axle with brakes for as little as you stated it would be a no brainer to me. Having brakes reduces some of the personal stress pulling a trailer in traffic and in the mountains. On slick roads without brakes the trailer could slide in a different direction than the braking tow vehicle, not a pretty sight. Danny

[Trackstriper]

Thanks guys! Reckon I'll spring for the brakes. Makes sense to me but I didn't know if I was maybe being a little too cautious in considering them. I appreciate the quick replies.

[BrwBier]

One more reason for brakes, parkng brakes.

[angib]

One more reason for brakes, parking brakes.

Surely*, aren't almost all trailer brakes electric-only and so don't have a parking brake facility? Dexter do offer electric-and-(cable)parking brakes but I think it was here that someone said they are hard to come by.

Andrew

* "Yes/no. And don't call me Shirley." (Airplane! - still laughing at that, decades later.....)

[BrwBier]

I see on their web site that Camp-Inn offers them. I do not know how available they are.
Brwbier

[Cary Winch]

We do offer the parking brakes. But, keep in mind that it will add ALOT to the cost of the brakes. They charge alot more for the hubs that have the parking brake levers in them. Then you have to come up with a cable and lever system of your own.

One word of caution on brakes. The suggestion has been made here to install the brakes and not use them with the heavier tow vehicle. Be warned, this is generally illegal. If a trailer has brakes you are required by law to use them. So, you would have to go through the expense and hassle of installing in the tow vehicle a controller and such even on such a large tow vehicle that will never need them. Of course the flip side to this is you probably won't find a law enforcement officer that knows anything of trailer laws let alone braking requirements so I would not expect anyone to give you grief over it. But, I do know a person who had to leave a trailer on the side of the road for this very thing after having been pulled over. It was a flat bed car hauler and was clearly overloaded which is why they pulled him over then gave the trailer a "inspection". Let's just say he had it coming for what he was doing that got him pulled over. LOL.

My two cents, get the brakes and use them. They help in all cases. The day will come that you will want to tow the teardrop with a much more properly sized tow vehicle (them fuel prices you know). Then you will be so very glad you did it up front. Besides, a work van with a brake controller doesn't seem like such a bad idea. I always put one in first thing in my pickups when I get one.

Cary