Trailer Frame Slightly Bent. Am I screwed?

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Trailer Frame Slightly Bent. Am I screwed?

Postby sandman » Thu Mar 22, 2007 12:52 pm

Guys,

I got ready to begin building the 2x4 frame which the floor of the teardrop will sit on to bring it up over the top lip of the 3"x3" Angle Iron Side Rails. When I laid down the side 2x4 rails, I discovered that the trailer slopes downward about about 1" just past the axle. I can't build a level floor joist system on a slope. I have no idea how to fix this. I know metal can bend and distort while welding so I am sure this is normal but it's screwing me up.
When I lay the 2 x4 down, and push down on it, It teeter totters at a point over the axle. I tried to copy the slope on the board with a pencil and cut it to match but it won't work. Any ideas? Shim it? HELP!!!!! :cry:
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Postby Dale M. » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:02 pm

If you can't bend frame back to level, I would just cut a tapered "shim" to "level" back end of frame and continue build...

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Postby elmo » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:06 pm

This whole process hasn't been easy for you has it? :R Do you have better luck riding the motorcycle?
It's scary when you start making the same noises as your coffee maker.
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Re: Trailer Frame Slightly Bent. Am I screwed?

Postby toypusher » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:24 pm

sandman wrote:Guys,

I got ready to begin building the 2x4 frame which the floor of the teardrop will sit on to bring it up over the top lip of the 3"x3" Angle Iron Side Rails. When I laid down the side 2x4 rails, I discovered that the trailer slopes downward about about 1" just past the axle. I can't build a level floor joist system on a slope. I have no idea how to fix this. I know metal can bend and distort while welding so I am sure this is normal but it's screwing me up.
When I lay the 2 x4 down, and push down on it, It teeter totters at a point over the axle. I tried to copy the slope on the board with a pencil and cut it to match but it won't work. Any ideas? Shim it? HELP!!!!! :cry:


Try putting the front and rear corners up on jackstands or something similar and get the whole thing level. Hopefully, the weight of the axle assembly will pull it back straight. If it does, then build the wood frame on top and the rest of the teardrop before putting it back down with the axle carring the weight.
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Postby War Eagle » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:24 pm

Jackup each corner and support them with the tires off the ground and hit it with a big ass slegde hammer. :lol: No really. Do you think you might could get the wheels off the ground a use leverage to bend it back in line? :roll: Just a thought.
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:44 pm

I am assuming the 3x3 angle is pointing leg up and you are standing your 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 2x4 on edge for strength. If so level your trailer by using the tongue and put 2 scrap blocks of 1x4 under a 2x6 (you will cut to make your side rail) At each end clamp the 2x6 to the angle. Check the 2x6 for level and adjust to level. Take a small block of 2x4 and follow the bottom leg of your 2x6 with a pencil held tight to the top of your traveling 2x4 this is your cut line. Cut to fit angle frame then mark and cut your excess at the top with the top of the angle leg. Cut it on a table saw top aginst the fence and you will stay level. You could adjust this line up or down below the lip as you wish. There will be those that tell you to cut and reweld or bend the he%% out of the frame but it just ain't that big a deal

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Postby Nitetimes » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:56 pm

You need to get it level and on solid stands before you start building anything. Put a stand under each corner, pulling the wheels might make it a little lower to work on. If it still has a bow in it put some weight on it and let it hang there for a day it should bring it down.
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Postby Arne » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:39 pm

I'm for putting a stand at each corner, heating the affect part and beating on it... once built, you will never know...

If not, I'd cut it, weld a back plate on, and go from there.... the tapered shim is an okay idea as well... whatever works, just do it...
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Postby madjack » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:53 pm

Nitetimes wrote:You need to get it level and on solid stands before you start building anything. Put a stand under each corner, pulling the wheels might make it a little lower to work on. If it still has a bow in it put some weight on it and let it hang there for a day it should bring it down.


...this is basically what I would (and do) do to most of the frames we build...you are right in that the heat from welding the axle, is the culprit...get up in the air and apply some weight to the area just behind or at the axle...I wouldn't "beat" onit but adding a little bounce now and then should bring it back into line..if you get it close, you can use washers for spacers or cut an appropriate sized/shape of shim.....
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Postby Miriam C. » Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:56 pm

:D This is what I did. It worked but it was hot out too. The only thing is you really have to keep jacks under it to keep it level.
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... highlight=

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I jacked the trailer up on the corners that were down enough to get the tires off the ground the amount of the dip. Then I weighted the other corners till the tires slowly came down. Took a couple of tries and days.
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Postby critter » Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:20 am

Hey Sandman,
There aint nothing to worry bout.take the advice offered and even if none of it works "let er roll" 8) The tape measure police aint gonna get ya and its just a camper and if you wanted it perfect you shuda bought a airstream! :D :thumbsup:
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Postby sandman » Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:17 pm

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the great help. I jacked the trailer up and placed the rear on Jack stands and levelled it with the tongue jack last night. So far the frame has bent itself back into line a little with about 1/4" difference after the axle. I am going to leave it on the jack stands until I get the teardrop floor and walls mounted.

Here's my next questions, what if the frame flexes downward in the rear after placing it back on the ground. This will inevitably pull down on the teardrop causing weak joints and twisting the body.

I don't want perfection at all, I was just afraid once built on a crooked frame that the whole tear would be out of whack causing fitting problems.
Maybe I should just stop over-thinking things with my OCD and just toss the teardrop on top and get to building.

Hey Elmo-No this build has been tough on me mentally. I know I will get back to having fun as soon as I start putting the tearbody together. ...and yes, I suck at riding my dirtbike too. I am usually the slowest guy on the trail bringing up the rear and usually end up rolling down hill climbs on my butt. :lol:
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Postby elmo » Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:41 pm

sandman wrote:Hey Elmo-No this build has been tough on me mentally. I know I will get back to having fun as soon as I start putting the tearbody together. ...and yes, I suck at riding my dirtbike too. I am usually the slowest guy on the trail bringing up the rear and usually end up rolling down hill climbs on my butt. :lol:


Hey we have the same riding style. :beer:
It's scary when you start making the same noises as your coffee maker.
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Postby toypusher » Fri Mar 23, 2007 2:33 pm

sandman wrote: ............Here's my next questions, what if the frame flexes downward in the rear after placing it back on the ground. This will inevitably pull down on the teardrop causing weak joints and twisting the body.

I don't want perfection at all, I was just afraid once built on a crooked frame that the whole tear would be out of whack causing fitting problems.
Maybe I should just stop over-thinking things with my OCD and just toss the teardrop on top and get to building.

.............................


Just leave it on the stands (should do 4 corners and not use the tongue jack) until you have the entire body done. Once the whole thing is glued and screwed together, I don't think that the fame will sag anymore at all.
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Postby madjack » Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:17 pm

toypusher wrote:
Just leave it on the stands (should do 4 corners and not use the tongue jack) until you have the entire body done. Once the whole thing is glued and screwed together, I don't think that the fame will sag anymore at all.


...basically agreed...you could attempt to flex it back the other way but why...the torsion box, which a Td becomes, is supremely ridgid...ever see a sheet of ply sitting on its edge flex up or down...ain't gonna happen........
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