5x8 Landscape Trailer Conversion

[SaGR]

I don't think there will be any issues but will post up for scrutiny.

We bought this trailer at a local big box (Menards).



We will cut off the uprights, rails and ramp. Should we leave the floor?

The other questions are:

Trailer height - ground to bottom is 15". Sound OK? I think this is sufficient but will require me to add a hitch receiver to the truck to get a level trailer ride. The axle is mounted over the spring.

Floor mounting - As you can see in the pic below the trailer has an upright angle iron in an L shape. I'm sure this is more than workable and I've seen others use this configuration. Anything to watch for?

I plan to overlap that with the outside skin like the generic plans on the HF trailer and will build in an 1/8 rabbit along the bottom of the wall (laminated type) to account for it.



Front of trailer - Should we add angle irons from the corners forward? We'll have plenty of steel to do it after cutting the sides and rails off.

[Juneaudave]

Your trailer looks a little different, but Sandman cut the mesh out of his so that the floor could set right on the frame. See this thread http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=16559

That looks like a good trailer to start with!!!

[SaGR]

Nice! Thanks for the link. I've got another tab opened where I searched for landscape trailer but hadn't finished all the topics yet.

I liked this trailer because for just a little bit more $$$ and about 60lbs more than the RedTrailer we got a 2000lb capacity which gives me a lot of margin of error on TD weight!

[SaGR]

Any other comments before we start cutting?

[Nitetimes]

I don't think there will be any issues but will post up for scrutiny.

Should work just fine. Start grindin!!


Front of trailer - Should we add angle irons from the corners forward? We'll have plenty of steel to do it after cutting the sides and rails off.

Personally, I'd remove the mess, just extra weight you don't need. It isn't of any value structurally so why keep it.

Why not?... ya got it, might as well use it. I'd weld the tongue tube to the tilt rails and eliminate a rattle spot too.

Oh, and you want to start 18-24" behind the corners with your braces.

[madjack]

...I would remove everything I could...including the mesh flooring...for the tongue, I would see how far forward, I could mount a tongue jack and then run bracing from there, back to the sides at the first crossmember back from the front...yeah, and weld that pivot point up...if for nothing else but to shut it up...
madjack

[bobhenry]

M.J. Had to read that twice finally realized that I was looking at a dump tongue set up and it finally sunk in that you are " shutting up" that damn rattle.
I fully agree with the tongue mods but it looks a bit short I'd replace it with some 2 1/2" sq tube about 12" to 24" longer. Then the tear could extend forward a bit this will effectively be the same as moving the axle set back with a lot less hastle.

I do disagree with the mesh though. I would leave it as a stone guard to protect the underside of the floor I would also lay some thin guage sheet steel on top of it just under the wood floor members. I used 1/4" lexan as my stone and road slop guard for my floor. (Pic's in album)

[steve wolverton]

I do disagree with the mesh though. I would leave it as a stone guard to protect the underside of the floor I would also lay some thin guage sheet steel on top of it just under the wood floor members. I used 1/4" lexan as my stone and road slop guard for my floor. (Pic's in album)

Nah, cut that stuff off. He doesn't need the added weight. My tires are directly under my camper floor and I haven't had any problems. His tires will be sticking outside the body, so it's not worth worrying about.

Does your stone guard have chips in it?

[SaGR]

I'm listening (reading) so keep going.

I had planned on removing the mesh but see a good argument as to leaving it, though I'd think the insulation would also serve a sacrificial purpose here as well as to the underside of the trailer.

We will weld the tilt hinge on the tongue.

A-Frame from the first cross member back to the front.

The jack sits ~6.125" back from center of ball socket. This gives me turn all the way to jack knife without the jack head slapping the bumper. Will post a pic tonight.

Guesstimating weights and plugging in that and measurements into the spreadsheet showed 12% on the tongue in the current configuration of axle set back and tongue length. Obviously this is subject to change as the build progresses and I get more accurate weights.

[madjack]

Bobhenry...yes, if you extend the tongue and move the TD body forward, that is the same as relocating the axle back....be VERY wary of the piece of sheetmetal on the bottom...it will want to trap and hold water, causing rot...a lot worse a thing, than stone damage..........
madjack

[SaGR]

Pics as promised:

In down position from front of hitch -



In down position from front of trailer -



They had to close up the garage and because there's no power yet since the fire I couldn't get a picture of it in the up position. Will add those tomorrow.

As you can see it's pretty much centered on the tongue but this gave me clearance up front when it's stowed so it doesn't hit the bumper on the truck.

[sandman]

I had a trailer built with mesh from front to rear. It was a big mistake. I learned the hardway. The floor will not sit level on Metal Mesh plus you need to have access to the bottom of your trailer. After getting into my build, I see how important it was to have unrestricted access to the bottom of the tear. Cut off the mesh is the best advice I can give you. It took me 3 days to break the welds, remove the mesh, grind down the welds with a die grinder, and then repaint...but then again, I had 7 feet of mesh to remove. My trailer is 12 feet long.

You will not be sorry for removing the floor. Hopefully this helps your decision.

[SaGR]

I'd figured on removing it from the start just wanted to hear the pros and cons from others who have done it.

[SaGR]

Just for education, this trailer seems really strong and I'm curious, what is the purpose of the A-Frame?

[caseydog]

...yeah, and weld that pivot point up...if for nothing else but to shut it up...
madjack

Seems like having it dump would make cleaning easier.

I like the idea of starting from one of these. I have a 4X6 utility trailer just like this, without the loading ramp. Paid $299 for it at Tractor Supply. I am thinking about using a larger one for a future build foundation.

I can watch you build yours, and learn from your mi$take$.

Does anyone know if the bolt patern on these things will allow a bigger wheel/tire combo?