Question about angle iron for a frame

[johnnlynn2]

I've been reading many post about building a tear and was looking at different trailer manufacturers as to what one I would buy for a tear. The wood and electrical I can do but not building the steel part. If a TSC or HF trailer has to be modified, the experts say a custom build to my specs would be the way to go. My question is would angle iron 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" x 3/16" be strong enough for the frame and A-frame for a 5X9 or 5X10? I didn't see this size angle iron on any threads or charts. I have access to this size in 10' er's and the price can't be beat. Any help would be appreciated.
John

[madjack]

John, I would think it to be fine for the basic frame, but it might be a tad light for the tongue...you may wish to get a piece of 2x1/8th tube for the center on the tongue and use the angle for the side braces, inna modified "Y" arrangement...hopefully our resident engineer will see this and post a comment onit....
madjack

[angib]

On my tongue strength page, you'll see 1-1/2"x1-1/2"x1/8" angle listed, but not 3/16". 3/16" has a horizontal/vertical capacity of 2,700lb-in, which is fairly weak - it's about half as strong as the tongue members on a HF 1800lb trailer, for example.

If we allow the tongue to be half as strong as the Aussie rules require (which I think is reasonable for a teardrop) and you want a tongue that's 36" long, two of those 1-1/2"x1-1/2"x3/16" angles would be sufficient for a 600lb GVWR teardrop - so that would be well under 500lb unladen.

If you think you can build that light, those angles would be borderline. Even if the angle is strong enough for the A-frame, you run the risk of getting a frame that bounces (vertically) because the 1-1/2" angle won't be very stiff. However I don't doubt the angle would be strong enough for the rest of the frame.

If you want to follow madjack's good plan to add a stronger central tongue member, you'll need to attach it to two widely spaced crossmembers (say, at least 36" apart) otherwise you run the risk of the tongue bending the rear crossmember.

Andrew

[SteveH]

When I built my frame, I used 2"X2"X1/4" angle for all of it, even the tongue in a "V" configuration. I think the frame is too heavy. However, I was dissatisfied with the tongue because it had a lot of give to it. What I did was weld a piece of 2"X1/4" strap to the bottom of the tongue pieces to form a channel, and now it is plenty strong. Just something to think about. There are pictures in my gallery.

[Trailer411]

Hey John,

I wouldn't us anything less than 2x2x1/4 on a 10 footer, but think about some tubing. An all tubing frame us easier to build, mostly because the cross members are straight cuts, and its easy to paint and usually a bit stronger even if you us 1/8 or .120 wall. The box section doesn't deflect as much as angle and seems to always start out straighter. My companies work with tubing frames every day. Check out some of the trailers we build at:
http://www.ultracomptrailers.com

If you need help with anything else, like axles, tires, or even electrical just let me know.

Thanks

Mike Schantz

[Trailer411]

Oh, I forgot to mention John,

If you want, add your favorite teardrop pictures on my site at:
http://www.trailer411.com/teardrop-trailers.html

If you are anyone else has a teardrop story with a picture feel free to add it to my site for all to see! My page has an invitation for anyone with a teardrop! Check it out it's a great place to show off your favorite trailer pic's, other than this forum of course!

[Wos]

I built a 5.5' x 12' utility flatbed trailer using 3x3x3/16 angle iron with 2x2x1/8 for cross bracing. I laid it out on the garage floor and welded it up, trying very hard to even the heating of both sides as I went. Seemed to work quite well, end to end it was arrow straight. I flipped it over and then noticed that it had arched almost three inches over the entire length. not a big deal with a flat bed but will difinitely hurt a teardrop build. I dont think square tubing (2") would warp nearly as bad if any at all.

[Nitetimes]

Hey John,

I wouldn't us anything less than 2x2x1/4 on a 10 footer, but think about some tubing. An all tubing frame us easier to build, mostly because the cross members are straight cuts, and its easy to paint and usually a bit stronger even if you us 1/8 or .120 wall. The box section doesn't deflect as much as angle and seems to always start out straighter.
antz

1/4" is over kill for a TD, even a 10' er. You have to keep in mind that unlike your trailers the frame on a tear does very little except hold the axle and tongue in line. The box of the trailer is more than strong enough to keep things stiff. I've built plenty of heavy equipment/construction trailers and I'd never think of building them the way I do TD frames!
The frame I'm building now has 2X2X1/8" angle for the main rails with a mix of angle and tube for X-members. The tongue is 2X3X1/8" tube with an angle A-frame tho.
Gotta get the pics out of the camera.

[2bits]

1/4 angle and especially square is HEAVY as Steve said.

My 10' trailer is using 2"x2" 1/8" square tube that cost a total $110 for 48 feet. 4, 7 foot tubes, (two for the tongue, and two for the sides); and 4, 5 foot tubes, (3 for the crossmembers and 1 for misc)

I've seen quite a few photos in the galleries that used angle, and it "looks" like 1/8"

[doug hodder]

Not to stir the pot...but if you can weld, 16 Ga. in 2" sq. tube works fine for the frame. 2x3 .120 tongue and a couple of 2x2 .125 angle irons makes for a real stout frame. Check the frame tutorial, engineered by Andrew, or check with him in person. Heavy doesn't necessarily make it better, but you need to build to what you think is required for your own piece of mind.... Doug

http://www.teardroptrailers.us/Trailer.html