Hydraulic surge brakes vs electric brakes

[jmedclay]

I've read many of the posts wherein the advantages and disadvantages of each, and preferences of some for one or the other , have been discussed yet I am still on the fence as to which to choose. I once had hydraulic surge powered drums on a boat trailer and corrosion from brackish water caused them to drag; that in turn caused them to overheat, fail the seal, lose the grease and fail the bearings. It didn't seem to have happened on one trip. One of the disadvantages of the drum configuration I subsequently realized was the inability to visually inspect the inboard seals for evidence of problems; I switched to hydraulic surge powered disks which worked fabulously with my 3000# load in the flat southeastern USA. Now I need to select brakes for my 1300# (loaded) teardrop and I have long assumed hydraulic disks. I called Kodiak to ask about their small disks and the technician expressed some concern that such a light trailer might not have the mass, given the choice of actuators (for much heavier loads), necessary to actuate the brakes well, short of a strenuous stop. With that introduction, have any of you had similar failures, or experience with hydraulic surge brakes on a light trailer? How reliable are electric powered drums on travel trailers? Conversely is their reputation one of high reliability? They certainly seem to be common so one would think them to be proven.The ability to adjust their gain on the fly is attractive. What do you know?
Thanks,
John

[working on it]

Though I hope my unfinished as yet TTT comes in light enough NOT to need brakes, if I have to add them later it'll be electric drums. After years of hauling my cars and other cargo with my 18 foot car/equipment trailer (at first with brakes on one axle, then after an axle/springs rebuild, on both axles), I come to depend on my electric drums. Being prone to both neglecting brake maintenance and overloading my trailer, the infinitely adjusting control is great. If my trailer sits too long between uses, and the drums get rusted, then I can just drag them smooth and clean while getting underway (via manual override). If my load seems too much for my normal settings, then I can crank them up for more stopping power. And if I get in stop-and-go traffic, I can turn the power down and stop by my truck's brakes alone or use the manual override on the trailer brakes, and haul my truck to a stop that way. Lots of options. I always check out my wife's travel trailer brakes before she tows though; she just wants to stop, not make decisions on how to use the system. I recommend a digital display/proportional brake controller, if you want to use varying repeatable settings, or an inertial/analog system for set and forget usage.

[bdosborn]

I haven't had any issue with electric brakes since I switched to a good controller. I use a Tekonsha Prodigy P3. Just set it and forget it. The older controller that came with the truck never really worked very well, I was always fussing with it trying to find a good setting.

Bruce

[Dale M.]

Adjustable electric brakes with manual overrides win my vote every time...

Dale

[72FJ40]

I will also vote for electric brakes. With a good controller you can tune the brakes to your load, vehicle, and towing needs. The manual over ride will have its uses also. I have pulled a trailer with surge brakes and was not pleased with the performance. Know there is good and bad in everything mechanical; but one less than pleasant experience with a loaded trailer is enough.

[jmedclay]

I have been reading everything I can find, including the replies here, and I think I'll get the 7" Dexter drum brakes with the #9 Torqueflex. Getting the brakes with the axle provides good value for money, they seem to have wide market penetration with a good reputation, in terms of braking power they appear more suitable for a light trailer than surge brakes (especially when using disks which I fundamentally prefer) and the ability to actuate them independently of the TV's brakes seems handy. It's nice to have that settled because the steel trailer frame is pretty much ready for that and paint, and then the cabin gets mounted. Thanks for all of the input.

[Shadow Catcher]

I really did not have a choice on which brake system we got though I did ask for them in CR. We have the Dexter 7" and after the last month wish we had larger. Coming down Tioga pass, 10,000 feet, the brakes on the car were smoking on the down grade. Given a choice I would chose a Flexride axle with 10" brakes.

[bdosborn]

I have the flexiride and its a great axle. Replacement parts are easily available too:

Flexiride Axle

They can put any amount of rubber in you want so don't be afraid to call them up and have them build whatever axle rating you want.

replacement Bearings

Replacement brakes

Bruce

[slowcowboy]

I run 7 inch dexters on my teardrop which is built on a harbor freight trailer frame and they are plenty.

my question shadow catcher is DID YOU DOWN SHIFT TO COME DOWN TIOGA PASS?

makes a diffrence.

I can get down almost any steep grade with out great brakes with a simple down shift.

if you are not certain on your brakes folks drop it in a pretty low gear and turn on the 4 ways and take it at a crawl to the bottom.

them singes saying gear down for trucks and the percentage of the grade are FOR CARS TO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I normaly on the wind river moutains turn my power all the way down to nothing to come down off the wind rivers. it just burns the brakes out even on the trailers to ride them all the way to the bottom.

bigger brakes on the trailer is not going to cure it. you need to down shift.

in a automatic this is dropping it in to like 1 or 2 below drive and using the tranny not the brakes to slow you down.


on a manual you would choose a gear much like 2 or 3 to get to the bottom.

the steeper the grade the lower the gear you choose.

the brakes coming down a moutain pass are just to control engin rpm and to keep from over taxing the motor.

brakes are not to come down a moutain pass at normal high way speeds.

I have wacthed a lot of out staters fly down tobetwee pass by dubois at over 80 mph.

NOT GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!

last year I followed a guy from out of state in a teardrop flying at a high rate of speed down the pass though road construction he was going so fast at one moment.

the right wheel of the teardrop hit a rut in the road construction the dirt part and flew a foot off the ground!!!!!!!!!!!

the dude had no clue he was driving so recklessy or so fast. I wanted to talk to him and say hi but he was traveling so fast. he was in riverton before I got off the pass and down to dobois.

I have a cheapo wally world brake controler in my suv for my teardrop.

its set like at a low setting like 15 and I never touch it.

I never adguste it and have NEVER USED THE MANUAL override on it in my life!

I tow with the same controler my much larger 20 foot gooseneck flat bed trailer and my 16 foot titan horse trailer and I never move my brake settings over 15.

empty on a long trip they just make to much rubber coming off the tires and are a pain in the butt.

loaded the small extra braking power is enough to do the job.

I let my larger hydrolic brakes on my truck do the slowing down.

this saves on a chance of a trailer skid to.

I set my brake controler at a low setting like 15 and never look at it again.

slow