Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Ask questions about Harbor Freight trailers, or questions about building your own...

Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Ron Dickey » Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:55 am

just adding this to the HF questions and answers

Called lost a part and also going onto another type of hitch and stand.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54884
121377.............134179.........134805
both side walls are up...cabinet needs stain.......ongoing 2.5 yr bld build as i find time..... Cross Bow in Build Journals....viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Ron Dickey » Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:03 am

also found this one
She had a tire problem and said to check the tire for bobbles. I do not know if it was run at full pressure but they had ones blow.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54842
121377.............134179.........134805
both side walls are up...cabinet needs stain.......ongoing 2.5 yr bld build as i find time..... Cross Bow in Build Journals....viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Nobody » Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:34 am

Unless your local NAPA dealer just doesn't want to bother, he can get about ANY bearing/Seal from the nearest NAPA warehouse. My younger son has a NAPA store & when I needed to replace the seals on my HF 1740# trailer he measured the old seals (30x52x10) & ordered them from the warehouse. He also ordered the next lower & next higher sizes as his experience is that used seals don't always measure out correctly. The measured 30x52x10 turned out be be too tight to easily go on the spindle even with moderate force applied. The 32x52 fit correctly but the 10mm thickness wouldn't seat properly in the hub so we went to 8mm thickness. We are fortunate to have a NAPA warehouse locally but even if not local, your NAPA store should be able to get 'em within a couple of days. The correct seal for MY HF 1740# is 32x52x8, NAPA part # 12745. I've pulled my TD more'n 6K miles since the last bearing re-pack/seal replacement (& 12K plus before that) with no problems or grease leaks. Accurate measurement is important & a helpful dealer can be of invaluable assistance in acquiring the correct part(s)...
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Original bearing - #'s correspond to a NAPA catalog #
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Ron Dickey » Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:28 pm

Thank you Harvey. :thumbsup:

I will go down and talk to them.

Ron
121377.............134179.........134805
both side walls are up...cabinet needs stain.......ongoing 2.5 yr bld build as i find time..... Cross Bow in Build Journals....viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Mary C » Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:34 pm

OK got all the ukie stuff off and cleaned the bearings and copied down the numbers and got it well greased and ready to be assembled . It was a lot easier than I thought. I will call and see about getting a couple of spare seals and bearings.

thanks for all the inspiration to get it done.
Mary C. :)
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby pchast » Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:18 pm

Mary,

Its actually less expensive to call HF and order a spare hub. This includes all the parts.

Pete
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby wingloader » Sun Mar 24, 2013 6:40 pm

Pulled the bearing out of my new HP 1740# today. I was cleaning the bearings when one of them came apart. I am sure I can reassemble it no problem. Is the fact that it came apart a problem waiting to happen? I personally don't think it is because the raceway is basically there to keep the bearings in place.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
Joe
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby KCStudly » Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:37 pm

Junk. :(
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Ron Dickey » Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:43 am

wingloader wrote:Pulled the bearing out of my new HP 1740# today. I was cleaning the bearings when one of them came apart. I am sure I can reassemble it no problem. Is the fact that it came apart a problem waiting to happen? I personally don't think it is because the raceway is basically there to keep the bearings in place.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
Joe

you can for around $250 get a new axel with hubs that have american hubs and bearings. But you have to ask a RV parts place or dealer for the price and ask several so you know who is in for the bucks. I may do that in the future. You need to take the trailer in to them so they can measure and get you the right one.

But if the Bearing fell out I would be replacing it, you do not want it pop'n out at 55+, if it gets to hot it will weld to the spindle and lock the wheel.

Several of the folks have said carry a spare Hub all greased and ready to go. or get a sealed bearing.

Ron
121377.............134179.........134805
both side walls are up...cabinet needs stain.......ongoing 2.5 yr bld build as i find time..... Cross Bow in Build Journals....viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby wingloader » Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:07 am

What the hell would I do without you guys!!!

Thanks for the input. I am just trying to get this dang thing road worthy so I can use it to get some wood and start making some SAWDUST!

;)
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Mary C » Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:52 am

Joe after reading the forum , there are lots of people who have traveled many miles with the HF trailer and some who have had problems so, it is a matter of opinion and expierence, I would give HF a call and replace the bearing (order the whole hub as I am doing). If it came apart and you feel comfortable putting it back to gether then at least have one in waiting if trouble should occur.

Mary C. :) :)
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby wingloader » Mon Mar 25, 2013 12:03 pm

Hi Mary. That's exactly what I am going to do. My dad is a retired mechanic. He said the raceway is not integral. He has seen them loose like this before and it is not going to affect it. I'm going to get a spare hub. Hopefully when I push the inside bearing out of the new hub I won't destroy the damn seal. I just went and bought a replacement at NAPA so I could get the wheels back on the trailer.
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby KCStudly » Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:37 pm

Okay, maybe I jumped to a conclusion prematurely.

Did the inner race and rollers fall out as a unit? That's not a big deal. Just clean thoroughly (and I mean not a speck of anything; nothing foreign), inspect for abnormal wear, nicks, pits and/or signs of heat. If good, re-grease with impeccably clean grease.

If the roller bearings all separated from the cage and came apart from the inner race (which was my original interpretation), then I stand by my earlier assessment; junk.

To recap what has been said many times:
When replacing wheel bearings be sure to change both the "cup" (outer race) and "cone" (inner race with bearing cage assembly). Most good parts houses can press the races out/in for you for a nominal fee. If that is not an option, or you are familiar with the process and have the correct tools, you can do it yourself. It can be tricky for a novice. Do not hammer directly on either of the parts at installation. Use an appropriately sized socket or bearing driver (the old race can be used if it is ground down on its OD so that it is a slip fit to the bore); preferably an aluminum mandrel, or brass punch in a pinch. What ever you do, do not mushroom the outer race, or you will be doing the job again very soon.
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby wingloader » Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:29 am

The cage simply came off. The rollers and the inner raceway are in perfect shape. The cage is just there to hold things in place when the bearing is out. I will just use grease to hold the rollers on the raceway and carefully put the cage back over the bearings.

Someone mentioned a NAPA part number 12745 for a new bearing seal. Picked one up yesterday to replace the original one that I damaged removing it. Dumb question...WHY THE HECK doesn't HF ship the bearings and seals in separate packaging!? Duh.

As quoting above, Brakleen is awesome stuff to put the finishing touches on cleaning bearings.

Another note. My old man is a retired mechanic. He told me to do the following when assembling the hub on the spindle: Put the hub on and tighten the castle nut until the hub spins freely and does not feel loose at all. Then, give the nut a SMALL extra turn (maybe only a degree or two) to put a VERY small amount of pressure on the bearings. When the hub is under pressure from the weight of the trailer, it can cause a small amount of slop in the bearings due the the fact that they are tapered. Slop in bearings = bad stuff. I've put wheel bearings on my own car using this method. After driving for a few miles, I jacked the back end up and the wheel spun freely. Pretty neat trick.

Joe
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Re: Harbor Freight trailer questions and answers

Postby Ron Dickey » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:59 am

4 Pin Plug that comes with Trailer

The Connection that is supplied with the trailer for the lights is smaller then what you use in the US.

If you use this connection plug (suppled)
Image

you may not be able to barrow or rent other trailers your plug is smaller and pins are closer together.

even your inline plug tester will not work. Image

It does not come with LED lights so it is more worth the buck to go to wally Mart or trailer store and buy a LED set for around 35 bucks. (I read the walmart submersible ones get wet inside on the walmart site)
it might be worth getting submersible lights just in case on that odd moment when you might wish you had.

And you will not have a small plug too.
121377.............134179.........134805
both side walls are up...cabinet needs stain.......ongoing 2.5 yr bld build as i find time..... Cross Bow in Build Journals....viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
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