Drop floors

[ctstaas]

Hi Everyone, I promised my son my first born (TD) if he graduates High school and he did it. So I am fixing some things, making prototype parts, and planning my "What's Next/ better? build. I'm thinking bigger (5x5x10), with a drop floor. Bigger is easy, but a drop floor may require actual thought. If I can ask the right question??
How deep/ wide of a drop with what % devoted to storage/easy use. Buy a kit to make the slug a table, or design (steal a design) a flip up table. Can I simplify the transition of seating cushions to sleeping comfortably?

[doug hodder]

I've known several people that put a drop floor in a tear, with the idea that they will convert it from sleeping to sitting. Reality is FWIW, it can be a hassle, and in the case of a couple of them, they only use it to store stuff in, have only set it up as a sitting type configuration once or twice, and then have issues when they have to lift up the bed to retrieve something that is in the "basement". Tear building is a "do what'cha want" type of thing. If that's what you want, go for it. Doug

[citylights]

I have an under bed storage. It is useful for items you don't need often, like a spare tire and other emergency supplies. Mine is framed with 3/4 plywood and has 10-inch clear inside storage. I was shooting for 12 inch, but that just didn't work out with the ground clearance.

[48Rob]

Drop floors are better suited to standies, where you are trying to gain a few more inches for headroom.

The general idea behind a tear is "stand up outside, and lay down inside" as soon as you start trying to change that, designs and practicality clash.
It can be done, and has, but as Doug pointed out, it isn't very practical.

I went for middle ground with the cabin car design; standing outside, laying down inside, but also enlarging the cabin to provide a small floor area not under the bed.
This area I dropped the floor in to allow stooping.

The dropped floor idea in a typical tear is much like having a travel trailer with a couch, that makes into a bed.
Both are nice, but over time most owners just leave the bed made and don't use the couch function as it is too much hassle to make the bed when you are tired, and then unmaking it and storing all the blankets, sheets, and pillows for the rest of the day.

The most practical use of a dropped floor, or use of the underfloor area, is pull out shelves, accessed from outside.
They can give you a huge amount of storage that is easy to see and get to.

Rob

[bobhenry]

Yep pull out storage for easy access....



After all every kitchen has a JUNK drawer !

[ctstaas]

Thanks for the replies. I'll post some drawings of my design, based on your input, soon. I'm working on all the lists and pricing everything before I start and will pass that info along also. I'm almost done with my folding bench and running boards and will post those results when finished because I haven't seen anything else on this forum like these and they might be really useful to others.
Enjoy, Chris

[wyrdone]

The design I'm working on isn't a drop floor, but a lift up.

Going for appro 16" of lift for storage, water tank, battery storage, etc.

I have a buddy who does some welding so probably going to make the lift using 1" square box to frame it up.

[KCStudly]

When you say "lift up" is that the same as "bump up", or do you mean something that articulates, like a drop down storage box?

... or perhaps a bed platform with lift up top and storage underneath?

I'm picturing a recessed area up under a raised bed area that is only open to and accessible from underneath. The only advantage I see compared to having a lift up hatch under the mattress (for much easier access) is that you would need to be less worried about ventilation, leakage ( ) and/or sealing. But then again, if you are going to be doing cold weather camping I would think that you would want the tanks "inside" the heated area.

Could you tell us a little more about your plan and the reasoning?

[wyrdone]

Non-actuating. But with doors and full extension drawers.



16" of raise with a full width drawer at the back by the Galley, two side drawers and a hatch for storing things like popup canopy, chairs, poles, etc.

Note: Huge work in progress, still in drawing stage. (And I'm considering the idea of having access to the "under storage" from within the compartment.)

[KCStudly]

Picture is worth a thousand words!

Much more like Desert Moose's Desert Moose. I would call that a "raised floor" or "slide out basement".

One thing that he did that you may want to consider is putting the side doors down inside the side doors. That way there are less things to worry about sealing in from the weather.

[ctstaas]

5x10 TD 004.JPG (63.44 KiB) Viewed 1994 times

Hi everyone and thanks for your input. I wanted the drop floor for times when you need to be inside for longer periods of time and want to be comfortable. I've been planning and here's what I've come up with for my drop floor idea. I can get away with about 12" of depth from the top of the floor. I drew a line from the end of the tongue to the bottom of the tire and did not let my projection be below this line. I wanted foot space for four, so I went with a 2' x 4' of floor space. This will make fabrication easier also. The 16 GA box will measure 2' x 4' x 9 3/4" and weld to the bottom of the frame, making both stronger. I wanted to have a bench of around 16" to sit on. I will only be able to use three sides to sit on because the fourth is below the shelf and cabinet. There are kits available to make the slug into a table cheaper then I could build.
The cabin shelf/ cabinet and galley shelf are the same design as my 4'x 8' and work well so no redesign needed. A blank canvas in the galley. I plan to insulate the roof and finish the ceiling and run power in the roof for lights and a fan, both 110 and 12 V. The walls won't be insulated.
The frame will be made of 1 1/2 x 0.65" and 3 x .120" square tubing and a 16 GA sheet metal drop box. Strong enough but still light. I figured it would weight under 250#. Steel is costing around $1.00 per pound, so go figure. I want to use torsion axles with brakes. I'll have a receiver in the back and a tongue box for the propane, batteries and spare. The light brackets will be 1/4" x 3" plate welded to the frame.
Here are my drawings. Enjoy, Chris

[ctstaas]

5x10 TD 003.JPG (63.09 KiB) Viewed 1994 times

Hi There, I couldn't figure out to post two pics at the same time so jere is the other. Enjoy, Chris

[48Rob]

Chris,

When I determined the maximum floor drop on my trailer project I drew a similar line.

However, after thinking about it for awhile, I realized that the plan counted on having fully inflated tires.
If one of them ever went flat, and the tongue touched the ground the drop floor would hit the ground and be pushed up.
The soulution was of course to adjust the line to the bottom of the wheel rim.
For added measure I welded a couple 1/4" plates to the frame that would act as wear plates if it ever contacted the pavement.

Rob

[Tommy2tone_1999]

My floor storage is different in configuration from CityLights, but the same in principle. Under bed storage for items that I don't need all the time, or to store things like leaf tables that I take out when I set up and store before I leave.






Make sure you seal them well both inside and out.