Adding trailer brakes.

[rainjer]

We just bought a new Subaru Outback and according to the manual it will tow 2700# but any trailer over 1000# requires brakes. My teardrop is about 1400# and does not have brakes.

My trailer has 4' X 8' frame with 5.3 x 12 tires that are 4" on 4" hubs. I would like to not have to buy new wheels and tires.

Can someone point me in the right direction on a new axle, brakes and hubs for a reasonable price? I think a 2000# axle will work.

Jeremy

[Woodbutcher]

I have used Southwest Wheel for my axle. Have you looked into just replacing the hubs, instead of the whole axle?


http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-2 ... axles.aspx

[citylights]

I have used Southwest Wheel for my axle. Have you looked into just replacing the hubs, instead of the whole axle?


http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-2 ... axles.aspx

I bought mine at a local trailer supply, but I was looking here online...

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Axles-gw-2000_lbs.aspx

[jss06]

If you have the brake flanges already welded to the axle then it is pretty easy to convert to brakes. If not and you don't have welding skills, it would be cheaper and easier to purchase a new axle with brakes.

As Woodbutcher pointed out. Southwest Wheel is a great place to buy parts from. It does not hurt that they are about 20 minutes from my house.

[rainjer]

My axle does not have brake flanges. I was planning on replacing it.

Jeremy

[Shadow Catcher]

The current TV is a Subaru Outback 3.6L. Our first tear did not have brakes, the current one does and quite frankly I wish they were bigger and stronger. I have 14" rims and Micheline Harmony passenger car tires. Axel of choice for a number of reasons would be a Flexride http://www.ucfamerica.com/flexac.html
This one did not have brakes

This one does

[rainjer]

I was quoted $550 by our local trailer supply shop for the axel, brake assemblies, bearings and drums. To put a hitch on will be $350 and to add the brake controller it will be another $400......So $1300 to be able to tow my teardrop 2-3 times a year..... Maybe it's time to build a new one that is less than 1000 #'s....

Jeremy

[MtnDon]

If you have the brake flanges already welded to the axle then it is pretty easy to convert to brakes. If not and you don't have welding skills, it would be cheaper and easier to purchase a new axle with brakes.

Just for the record one needs more than welding skills. The flanges have to be perfectly concentric with the axle centerline to work properly. Usually a new wxle with flanges and brakes already installed is the best method.

[Dale M.]

$350 to install a hitch is a little over the top.... Go to e-trailer.com and source hitch, then look for installation video, if you can turn a wrench, you can save a buck...

$400 for a $150 controller and 20 minutes work to connect to factory plugs is another joke....You need to research more on how to do this....Instead of feeling his hand in your pocket...Again research controllers and ready made harness..... Gads it took longer to decide where to mount it and drill holes than to wire it on last controller I did...

Think you need to find different dealer....

Check owners manual for if there is connector already in vehicle to connect to for controller....Also on hints for adding hitch....

Dale

[rainjer]

The hitch I want is $249. They want $99 to install it. It s a stealth hitch from Torque Lift. It is the least obtrusive hitch for a Outback. Here is a comparison between the Torque Lift and the Hidden Hitch. They are a local company so no shipping either.


The Outback has a plug for a 4 flat plug in the rear hatch area but not a brake controller as far as I can tell. The one in the hatch area require you to run the wire out the door to use it. I want in under the car.

Jeremy

[Dale M.]

For brake wire, you just jack up car and use plastic zip ties to secure wire to various places under car body (or run it under carpets) ... Suggest if you are doing brakes, update plug/sockets from flat 4 to 7 pin RV style that way you will be industry compatible to most trailer RV wiring system that require brakes and have wiring for charging while towing capabilities for TB battery ... Also to using heavier RV style connector allows you to run heavier ground wire for return lead for lights and braking system.... Ground circuit in flat 4 connector may not be "big" enough depending on wire gauge....

This is not rocket science, its about as complicated as moving a garden water hose....

The issue of hitch style is personal preference (appearances), you get what you pay for so it should be a non issue (dollar amount) if it satisfies your needs..... Personally I don't car if people following me can see my hitch or not.... But its what appeals to ones personal aesthetics... Paint it flat black and it becomes almost invisible under car....

Dale

[eamarquardt]

The hitch is available for about $170. Kurt is a major name brand. http://www.thehitchstore.com/class-iii- ... fgod6jAA5w

You gotta drill 4 1/2" holes and install 4 bolts and nuts to attach the hitch to your vehicle. http://www.thehitchstore.com/images/doc ... 90-INS.pdf

I got one of these controllers and it works just fine: http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-6 ... oller.aspx Not that difficult to install but it does take a fused connection to your battery, a tap off of your brake light switch, ground, and a wire from the brake controller to your hitch connection. Not rocket science but daunting if you've no experience.

Here's a round Dexter axle with brakes for $325. Note springs hardware are not included. http://www.theoempartsstore.com/product ... 754&page=1

You haven't mentioned a draw bar, ball, or plug and socket but they're pretty inexpensive. Soooo, less the stuff noted yer talking about $625 (a bit more as you'll need a fuse carrier and some wire so say $650 total) in parts. About the only thing you'll need to add is a bracket to hold the wiring socket to your vehicle. I'm sure an RV supply store had ready make brackets for a few $.

You do need a few tools to install the stuff but, unless you're really not a tool guy, you should have the stuff required. If you don't any competent mechanic should be able to install all of this (if you have all the materials for them) in a morning or afternoon. Even at $80/hour yer right around $300 for a "professional" installation.

Pushing your car to its limits just isn't a smart thing to do. I wouldn't tow a trailer over about 500# with small to medium car w/o brakes. It's simply not worth it should something unexpected happen.

Better to know you've done all you can ahead of time than to wish you'd done more after the fact.

[rainjer]

The boss is vetoing my plan at this time. No trailer upgrades right now. I will just tow it with my Ranger until further notice.

We are going to have the Torklift hitch installed next month so we can put the bike rack on the back. From what I have been reading the other brand hitches can/will scrape going over speed bumps and steep driveways. They sit 3"-5" lower than the Torklift. I am going to wait on the trailer wiring and brake controller. I found a Tekonsha 90250 Prodigy RF Electronic Brake Control that does not need to be wired into the cabin on the car side. You just need a 4 flat and a hot wire from the battery. It is $300 but you can move it between cars.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P0ZA86/?ta ... b0j57qmq_b

I have been thinking about building another trailer so I may incorporate the brakes into the new build.

Jeremy

[Shadow Catcher]

I wanted a 2" class III and chose the Curt http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2012_Suba ... +Wagon.htm
We have never had a problem with it dragging.
We used the on board four way with a heavy duty converter to seven prong. Wires for the brake controller and 12V line to the trailer were attached to the TV battery.

[Dale M.]

. From what I have been reading the other brand hitches can/will scrape going over speed bumps and steep driveways. They sit 3"-5" lower than the Torklift.
Jeremy

A casual observation of both pictures you supplied puts the bottom of receiver portion of hitch about 3 to 3.5 inches below the rear bumper of vehicle..... Think if you have a issue with one hitting the ground going in/out of driveways or over speed bumps, you are going to have same issue with the other one also....

Actually the "Hidden Hitch" brand which is more obvious is less likely to drag on ground because it is further back under car and gives you a better "exit" angle under car..... With draw bar in place and trailer connected, both hitches are going to have same issues of clearance....

Dale