HF 4x8 Trailer

[Derson59]

I just bought a HF 4x8 1195lbs model 90154 . I have a 2008 dodge avenger with a trailer total towing weight is 1000lbs. I am going to build the HF teardrop trailer and my question is the plans call out for the axel to be drop back 4 inches. Would I still need to do that or just leave the axel where it is? Is it that hard to do? Any information will do.

UPDATE: I did find info on here to how to change the axel position on a HF trailer. So I will go ahead and move the axel back a bit. I do need advise on what to use to 1; make it not foldable. 2; what to add the folding section to add support on the old axel point?

[coyote]

Hello, i used that trailer also. What I did, and have seen others do, is take the two center cross members, the two at the folding point, and place them inside the frame rails. Basically doubling the frame channel, then weld/ bolt them in place.
. It strengthens the frame where it would have folded in its projected life. I have seen others add an extra cross member, cause the center " gap" is larger, some do not. I didn't, and so far, so good. Didn't show, but I put the axel on top of the springs to lower it some. This is what I did, there are more ideas different than mine, there is a lot of good knowledge/ experience on this forum. Coyote

[Derson59]

Coyote thank you for the idea.

[Woodbutcher]

I bolted mine in and moved the axle back about 6". I used 1 existing hole and redrilled the second. Worked good. Then I added a drop floor where I removed the cross supports.

[Derson59]

I have seen that some designs have the axel right where the factory has set it for the Generic Benroy, Rimple, and the Simple. I might just leave it where it is for now and see how that goes. I could change it later.

[Woodbutcher]

The axle placement has a lot to do with your options for the door and fender. If you plan on a rear galley with a cooler ,cast iron and a battery, you really want to think about moving the axle back some. To light a tongue causes lots of towing problems. I draw out a full size profile on cardboard or cheap 1/4" plywood. Draw in all the cabinet walls, mattress etc. and see where everything fits, including the door and fender. See what works.

[Derson59]

The axle placement has a lot to do with your options for the door and fender. If you plan on a rear galley with a cooler ,cast iron and a battery, you really want to think about moving the axle back some. To light a tongue causes lots of towing problems. I draw out a full size profile on cardboard or cheap 1/4" plywood. Draw in all the cabinet walls, mattress etc. and see where everything fits, including the door and fender. See what works.

Thank you for the advise. I will not be adding so much to the trailer it will be a light galley, battery and a bunk for the little one for now. Generic Benroy is what I will be doing for design.

[pchast]

On the 1720 trailer I was able to take the spring hangers and swap sides.
This used existing holes with a little juggling and moved the axle back.
I don't have an accurate number for how far.

My trailer is a different design without a galley and with a tongue box, so
the joke is; now my tongue weight is HEAVY. The trailer tows well, but
using the tongue box may change that. I may need to change things back.