Races spinning in hubs

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Races spinning in hubs

Postby Aaron Coffee » Mon May 30, 2016 5:06 pm

I am rebuilding/converting an old Apache popup camper to haul soap box derby cars. Pulled the hubs off and both outer races spin in the hubs. Is this fixable or are they hubs shot? I had another set of hubs from my second teardrop build that I put on it, but would still like to rebuild the old hubs with new bearings to have as spares. Any thoughts.
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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby bobhenry » Tue May 31, 2016 10:45 am

Many will call foul and all I can say is it does work......

gallery/image.php?album_id=1521&image_id=142128

a couple of coats on race and a couple coats on the inner hub, providing it is not insanely worn.
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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby 3GKnight » Tue May 31, 2016 11:59 am

A half-assed way to fix it is to take the races out, pound them slightly out of shape, and put them back in. If you do that, it's also a good idea to score the outside of the race with a chisel, creating slightly raised bumps.

Yes, it's not even remotely ideal, but the thing is that even if it doesn't work and your races start spinning, it's not really doing any more damage. You will absolutely need to check on it after some traveling too.
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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby KennethW » Tue May 31, 2016 12:04 pm

Locktite!!
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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby H.A. » Tue May 31, 2016 1:17 pm

[qu...
Last edited by H.A. on Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby Dale M. » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:22 am

Check bearing race OD... It just may be wrong bearing race.... Bearing supply house could have answer.... Personally I would not score or try to warp bearing race to fit hub.... My solution would be to score hub or maybe seat bearing race and lock it by using punch to peen hub to race.... Screwing with race could lead to failure of race.... Ultimately if hub races are stretches or spun out, I would replace hubs.... And if you repair is going to fail it will happen 35 miles past the sign that states you have reached "No Where USA" and local guy that can fix it will not be in shop till Tuesday after he recovers from weekend binge hangover, and he will probably be surly...

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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby Brushy_Bill » Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:54 am

There has been many hubs repaired using Bob's method, as long as the tolerances are not too large.

in 41 years of toolmaking, squeezing a bearing race is simply asking for trouble.
That race was probably manufactured to a roundness tolerance of 0.00045-0.0005 inch.
yes, half a thou.

If it is a steel hub, peening the bore with a center punch in equally spaced spots in two or three rows
can possibly hold it in place.
If it is a cast iron hub, the areas raised with the punch will simply break off as the race is pressed in due
the the brittleness of cast.

Locktite 609 is made specifically for this purpose. It can take heat to 300 degrees F.
can fill gaps to 0.010 which is huge for a bearing race. Personally, would not consider using one
that oversize.
I have used this stuff in machinery repair with great success.
Of course, this is just one man's opinion.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7415

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Re: Races spinning in hubs

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:07 am

Brushy_Bill wrote:There has been many hubs repaired using Bob's method, as long as the tolerances are not too large.

in 41 years of toolmaking, squeezing a bearing race is simply asking for trouble.
That race was probably manufactured to a roundness tolerance of 0.00045-0.0005 inch.
yes, half a thou.

If it is a steel hub, peening the bore with a center punch in equally spaced spots in two or three rows
can possibly hold it in place.
If it is a cast iron hub, the areas raised with the punch will simply break off as the race is pressed in due
the the brittleness of cast.

Locktite 609 is made specifically for this purpose. It can take heat to 300 degrees F.
can fill gaps to 0.010 which is huge for a bearing race. Personally, would not consider using one
that oversize.
I have used this stuff in machinery repair with great success.
Of course, this is just one man's opinion.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7415

Image

I have many years in mechanical maintenance and this^ is the best answer, assuming that the bearing is correct for the application. If the hub is worn the best solution is replacement. If just slightly loose the 609.

Absolutely true about cast iron, staking there is a "miss".

Be aware, when cleaning out your hubs during a bearing swap, if you go in there with sand paper, a greenie abrasive pad, or even aggressive wire brushing trying to get them all cleaned up nice prior to installing new bearings you can easily alter the bearing fit. It may not look like you have taken any metal away but the machining process leaves spiral tool marks with highs and lows. On a crudely machined part they may not have gone for a very fine finish (it takes longer to produce), so the highs are fewer and farther in between. These high points are easy to swipe away and you can quickly go from a nice drive fit to loose. Best just to clean with solvent and a plastic bristle brush, wipe with shop towel. If there is a particularly stubborn bit of crud, try to scrape it out with the tip of a plastic zip tie. I keep a piece of brass brazing rod with a dull chisel tip ground into the hook end and a T-handle shape bent into the other end; I use it for scrapping small bits of crud off of this kind of thing (and as an o-ring pick); the plastic and brass won't scratch the iron or steel like a steel pick will.
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