There's HEAVY labor charges for cutting steel

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There's HEAVY labor charges for cutting steel

Postby cracker39 » Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:08 pm

I asked two local suppliers for an estimate on my steel. I received both estimates today, and they were pretty close, but one couldn't supply the 1/8" and 3/16" plate I needed to mount my coupler and make gussets to weld to the chassis to bolt the floor down.

Both told me that no matter what the footage totals for each type was, I would be charged by the full "length" of steel they cut from. In other words, if I needed 16 feet of one type, I would be charged for a full "length" (20' at one supplier, 24 feet at the other), but would only get the 16 feet I asked to be cut. Maybe they'd throw in the excess, but, I didn't ask.

I went with the supplier who could supply the plate. His price for cutting my lengths of steel was $237. I called him back later and asked how much it would cost if I just bought the full lengths that I needed (2 of 1/8" tube, 1 of the 3/16" tube and one of the 1/8" angle) and he said $190. I elminated $47 from the cost and got more steel. I just have to make the cuts myself. I had planned on getting a 10" steel blade for my chop saw and making some cuts anyway. What the hey...I've got more time than money.

So, if you are making a chassis, ASK QUESTIONS. Make sure you get the most for your money. My cost of $190 includes the 5' x 9' frame witth 3 internal cross members (1/8" tube in the center, and a 1/8" angle between the center and each end for floor support)s, 3/16" "A" tongue, rear bumper, and tongue box support.

That brings my total chassis cost to about $620 before state taxes on the local purchases. Of course, Ira will want me to include the $38 for the set of 4 leveling stands I'll get from WM, even though they are not attached to the chassis. :? I don't think the cost of my chassis is too high, considering it includes a torsion axle and Rustbullet coating. I don't think I could get a custom frame built for that. My axle should be ready for pickup this week, so I should be ready to weld by the following weekend. (and they said I'd never get started :twisted: )
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Postby bg » Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:27 pm

honestly, $47 is cheap if those are accurate cuts. My local will do free cuts if it doesn't have to be precise and if it's just a few pieces.
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Postby weasel » Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:54 pm

Don't know the RPM,but used a chop saw from HF with the abrasive wheel. Made all the cuts worked real good.
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Postby Chris C » Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:10 pm

Powderburn,

You are correct, in metal working, a chop saw only pivots up and down. However, in woodworking we use, as you mentioned, compound miter saws...........not chop saws. Therein lies the confusion.
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Postby toypusher » Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:20 pm

powderburn wrote:
Chris C wrote:Powderburn,

You are correct, in metal working, a chop saw only pivots up and down. However, in woodworking we use, as you mentioned, compound miter saws...........not chop saws. Therein lies the confusion.


The things I could build if someone would make a metel cutting blade for my compound miter saw. :cry:


I just saw 12", 10", 8", AND 7 1/4" cutoff blades in Lowes today. HF sells them as well as HD. I'm sure TSC does also. I have a couple that I used in my 7 1/4" circular saw to cut my HF trailer a couple of inches shorter and they worked like a charm!!

EDIT: I would advise removing any dust collection when using one of these!!!!!!!!
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Postby madjack » Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:55 pm

Dale, we bought one of these from HF...caught it on sale for 50 bucks...course we had to spend 20bucks on blades for it
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Postby Steve_Cox » Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:58 pm

I got my 10" metal cutting disk for my miter saw from McMaster.com. Just because I didn't have to leave town to get it. Just be sure to remove any plastic parts from the saw that the sparks from the steel will come close to. They melt and burn pretty easily. Other than that the miter saw made really close tolerance cuts.

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Postby weasel » Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:36 pm

The ''metal'' chop saw I used has the miter gauge. We mitered the corners on the frame, cut the axle and angle for mountin' tabs. When on sale $50 at HF.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:47 pm

Try this place www.metalexpress.net/cgi-bin/index.pl?& ... 0c5edcfba6

They send it to your house! 8)

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Postby bg » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:27 pm

Chuck Craven wrote:Try this place www.metalexpress.net/cgi-bin/index.pl?& ... 0c5edcfba6

They send it to your house! 8)

Chuck


Mega expensive, though
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Postby Chuck Craven » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:39 pm

Well not necessarily if you have to bye a $200 piece of steel and cut off a foot for your needs. Express will cut of a foot and charge you by the pound + shipping UPS.
For “$30” and they do a good job at cutting it, pack it and ship it. I do not have to pay for shipping as I live just down the road from them. For small pieces of steel or aluminum one cant beat their service.
Give them a call (800#) and get a quote! You don't have to bye if it's to much.

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Postby Steve_Cox » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:03 pm

powderburn wrote: Steve....What is the RPM rated at?....Ive always wondered if using an abrasive disk in a miter saw would work.Is that blade a special design as compare to others?


10"X1/8"X5/8" arbor FLEXOVIT brand fast cut Metal, Stainless. Rated at 6112 RPM. My Craftsman 10" Miter saw is 5000 RPM no load speed. It was the cheap one at McMaster.com. not too special as I recall....

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Postby Sonetpro » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:04 pm

PB I think if you exceeded the rpm's you run the risk of the wheel breaking apart. I've had a angle grinder cutoff wheel do that. :O I use a porta-band for fine cuts.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:06 pm

Well I have experience with carbide milling cutters!
If you push them, instead of letting them do the cutting they will break off the cutting edge. Then they are expensive to replace.
If you use it right, you will not get the sparks but the chips that come off the cutter are just as hot! :SG
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Postby Chuck Craven » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:14 pm

I would not cut steel in a power miter box, as it is not built for that job.
Most power miter boxes are made of cast aluminum and will break form the stress.
Look at your manual that came with the saw, it should say do not cut steel with this saw! :cry:

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