Over or between wheels

[GregB]

I've finally bought a HF 1800# trailer because the quotes for a custom 5x9 here were all north of $1,000, ouch! The Minibago is a 5x9 so I either build over the wheels or spend more money and buy a wider axle to build between them. Any help in thinking of pros and cons would be gratefully appreciated.



OVER - Must allow for suspension travel, putting the trailer higher. I estimate at least 4" up from the chassis frame. This reduces internal headroom, raises the door opening, raises COG, etc., but gives potential storage space under. May have to make trailer sides 4.5' tall so I don't bang my head getting in and out.
I can build a wider trailer, up to 6' without too much hassle (wifely and I LOVE the Cal King bed, but can live with a queen size).
Can use existing chassis frame and axle, etc.
Cabin cars look ok, but will the Minibago look goofy with inset wheels?

BETWEEN - Gotta buy another axle and modify chassis frame (find a welder, etc). Probably another $300+ investment.
Can get a flexiride axle allowing fine tuning of ride height since suspension travel is not an issue.
Trailer can't go wider than 5' without making wheel track VERY wide.

I've been pondering this since I bought the trailer and I know I'm missing other considerations. What am I forgetting?

Thanks,
GB

[SteveH]

I'd cut the axle and add (weld) a section in the middle. You'd have to do the same with the frame also. Of course, I weld so it's not that big of deal to me. Maybe you can find a welder locally that will do it for a reasonable price. It's really not that big of a job.

[AmyH]

Greg, I am building mine over the wheels, simply because I made the decision to go wider after I had purchased my torsion axle and started building the chassis. I decided that I would just have a wee bit less leg/foot room where the wheel wells are, but I'll have a wider area forward and in the galley. I also don't want to lose height inside the sleeping area, so I am thinking of lap joining 4-6" wide (or so) 3/4" plywood to the existing plywood sheets, so they will end up around 52-54" wide and 10' long. I need to get more plywood to build the galley hatch ribs anyhow, so the extra sheet won't be a complete waste.

Good luck with your decision,
Amy

[angib]

Greg, A coupla thoughts:

- You seem to be assuming that the wheels-in design has to have its floor passing over the wheels, but I don't think that is a given. Look at George Teague's CompactGT in the Hall of Fame to see what the wheelboxes look like set inside a 5' body. George's floor is just 1/2" ply straight onto the HF frame - if you had any framing under the floor, the wheelboxes would be that much lower, relative to the floor. You have to cut the mattress around the wheelboxes, but if they're only 3" tall and the mattress is 4", you could still have at least 1" of foam on the full width. It's only your shins down there, so what does it matter?

- If you go for wheels-out, it looks to me like it would just work. I've drawn it out below:

(Illustration removed - see correction below)

I've made the width over the brackets 1/4" either side more than your HF frame - this puts the axle bolt holes in the centre of your frame member (which is only 1.5" wide, right? Right?). The 10.25" overhang is the absolute maximum for a Flexiride axle and needs a #9 if you went for a Dexter. The wheel/tyre shown is a 5.30-12 like you have now, but there's room to go up to a 175/80R13 if you want. There is a possible clash with the axle's trailing arm against the sidewall but, if the shaded bit of sidewall is cut out, it fixes that.

Andrew

[GregB]

So, Amy if you are adding to your wall height and building over the wheels, the top of your trailer will probably end up at 6'-6.5', at least, by my calculations. I'd be interested in seeing how you lay up your floor.

GB

[GregB]

Andrew,

I had come to the same conclusion regarding the partial mattress over the wheel well. That would keep the rest of my floor down to a reasonable level and still provide some protection for my shins.

The torsion axle attachment is verrry interesting. The Reliable axle has a maximum of a 12" overhang. Are your computations for a 60" body here?

GB

[AmyH]

Greg, I am actually dropping the sidewalls to cover the frame, which is why I am adding a bit to the sidewalls. Since I decided to drop them to cover the frame, I decided I didn't want to lose that 2" of height (seems a little silly, but I think it will look better with a bit of height added back in).
They will be built around the tires and not above them. Similar to Mike's Baja Benroy, only not quite as tall. I still have yet to figure out if I can use the existing fenders that I already purchased (note to self....don't buy anything until you are truly ready for it!!), or if I will build some custom fenders laminated up with marine mahogany plywood. I am currently favoring the custom route, since it will go better with the woody sides that I am doing,

Amy

[angib]

Andrew, Are your computations for a 60" body here?

Greg, Yes, sorry, forgot to add that dimension.

Greg or Amy, On the question of dropping the sidewalls over the frame, if you're building the body wider than the frame, it doesn't seem necessary to 'hide' the frame - it will be hidden (except possibly at the front and back) for anyone not lying on the ground, looking up!

Andrew

[GregB]

Andrew,

After several design revisions, I've decide to splice on 3" of skirt under the sidewalls. I'm not worried about hiding the frame but I think that it will look better if the fender sides come down on the wheels some. It will look less like the whole thing is precariously balanced on the tiny wheels. Plus, the skirts will be protected from scraping by the chassis frame.

GB

[sunny16]

GregB,
Can the axel be modified, cut and stretched to be able to build the trailer bigger? I don't know what the axel looks like with the HF trailer.

[madjack]

...if you want to strech the axles, look at the excellent that Jim Marshall did on his .........................................

[GeorgeT]

My wheel wells during construction on my 5 foot wide camper on an HF trailer. My floor is 3/4 inch plywood. My axle is mounted under the leaf springs. The upward travel is limited to about 3 inches or so as the hanger bolts will hit the frame keeping it from going any further. So the wheel well didn't need to be so high.





You can see that the cover over the wheel well took up very little room. It is 6 inches high and is 6 inches wide by about 14 inches long. Later I built cabinets over them in between the two vertical wall braces.

[GregB]

Thanks George, that is very helpful. I will build my trailer this weekend and check the wheel travel. 3" will mean that I can shorten the fender height. Luv dem pics!

GB

[Gerdo]

I "Tucked" my wheels in also. I wanted to build 5' wide but didn't want my wheel wider than my tow vehicle. It worked great. I'm glad I did it. The only thing that I gave up with doing this is the usual "Teardrop Fenders".

[Gerdo]

Mine is 5'W x11'L x 4'9"H. It is built over my wheels "tucked". I have 9" of storage under the whole sleeping area. This gives me the same 4' height from the top of the storage to the roof. I tucked my wheels so I could keep my overall width the same as my 4Runner. I also have a 5x10 utility tralier and the wheels stick out so that helped me want to tuck my wheels on my teardrop. I had my frame built and I had "wings" welded on for the wall support.