I'm ready to order parts for my trailer ???????????????

[Woodbutcher]

Ok, after spending many hours on this board ,I am ready to get my trailer started. Here is what I plan and I hope you guys can trouble shoot my ideas and save me some problems. I was going to start with a ready made trailer but after some of the responses here, I decided to go from scratch. I will follow the www.outbackteardrop.com/chassis.html plans for the basic 2x2 square tubing frame. I would also like to use the Atwood (#82297) folding and extendable stabilizer jacks. They go from 15.5-21.75. Problem is I can't find anywhere that has these longer ones. Just the shorter version. Can some one help me with this or offer a substitute?
I want to use the Flexride 2000 Lb. torsion axle from
www.etrailerpart.com unless someone has another vender. I want to run 15" wheels as my tow vehicle has 15" and I want the trailer to have a little taller stance. This brings up a question on what width axle to order. I want the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I have read somewhere on here that bolting on the axle gives the greatest flexability in moving the axle around when trying to find the right tongue weight balance. They recommended welding on an angle bracket to the frame with several differant holes in it so the axle could be moved forward or back once the trailer was finished and proper balance was determind. If the angle bracket is welded to the inside of the frame which would look best the hub is moved in closer to the frame Making a clearance problem maybe? It would seem the drilling and taping the frame rails themselves would work out the best but not be flexible to move. So how are people doing this?
Lastly I want to use an A-frame coupler so I can mount a storage box or LP tank up front. Is there any standard for how long the tongue should be? If I missed anything or this sounds like it will not work please chime in. Thanks, Steve

[PaulC]

Hi Steve, Great choice of chassis Planning, Planning, Planning. Good fun isn't it? As for the A-frame--grab the measuring stick, walk out to your Jeep and take measurements so as to allow for the trailer to at least be able to be at 45 degrees to your car. I have made mine to allow for a full 90 degree jacknife without hitting my tow vehicle. I did this as I tend to get into some awkward spots when off road.
Cheers
Paul

[doug hodder]

Good plan Steve ...get the frame stuff now, and it sounds like you "thunk" it out really well...but don't get too excited and over commit on interior/galley stuff till you are working on that, plans change, and you don't want to be stuck with a bunch of lights, accessories etc...that you no longer want to use...just my word of caution...it's happened to me... PS I think that is the longest jack that Atwood has, as I recall they only come in 2 sizes and I got the shorties...but I could be wrong...if it is the longest...try welding up a piece of boxed tube on the foot of it to pick up more height, just an idea... Doug

[Woodbutcher]

Hey Doug, It's funny but I have been going through this site and printing interesting things I've seen because I may never find them again. I printed off your frame, hinge and fenders. Small world. I am thinking of a Woody style Tear and I really liked yours. Can you tell me where you got your Atwoods and fenders? Adding on a length of 2" tube is a good idea I had not thought of that. I may have some questions in the future on your design. Thanks, Steve

Paul. Given what you said. Would I be better off with a straight coupler and bolt in 2 angles (forming an A) back 18" or so behind the coupler? Allowing my backup radius? Also do you bolt on the coupler so it can be replaced if it's damaged or should I weld it on? Thanks, Steve

[PaulC]

Paul. Given what you said. Would I be better off with a straight coupler and bolt in 2 angles (forming an A) back 18" or so behind the coupler? Allowing my backup radius? Also do you bolt on the coupler so it can be replaced if it's damaged or should I weld it on? Thanks, Steve

Steve, I placed the angles as you have described. As for the coupler, I welded mine on. Don't plan to damage it any time real soon but if I do, there ain't nothing a 9" grinder can't fix
Cheers
Paul

[doug hodder]

Steve, thank you for the compliments...I picked up the jacks from a local RV supply store, and I only have 13" from the folded jack to the ground, wanted a low look, so I can tow it with the 59 Rambler, that's why I went with the shorties, and 4" drop axle...Fenders are from RW Johnson, 11" wide kits, and I know that Grant at Lil Bear has the same fender...if you want an off road tear with a lot of height, only guessing due to the height you want on the jack...and are banging rocks trees etc...you might want to go with something like a tread plate fender...these won't take a big hit...but my tears are "asphalt Queens" Doug

[IndyTom]

Steve.
This is an exciting time for you. I just completed my trailer frame today. I remember being scared to death bringing home that first load of steel.
Since I am building a very different design, I cant comment on your questions, but just wanted to say Go For It! Get To Building!

[PaulC]

Steve, I'm about to start my second build but it will be 8x5x4. I'll post pics when I start.
Cheers
Paul

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks for the info and support guys. I will look at other fender options, but that is such a nice look. I am not really building a pure offroad tear. I just want be able to take it over a little rougher stuff if it comes up. I just don't want to shake the thing apart. Hey, Indy Tom what type of frame/axle are you doing? I just want to get this right so I can move on and know the bones are right. I tend to be compulsive when I get my teeth into a project I go right at it. I will try not to get to far ahead and screw up (or design change) whichever you prefer to call it!

[angib]

I want to use the Flexride 2000 Lb. torsion axle .....This brings up a question on what width axle to order.

Steve,

This diagram is from a data sheet from UCF (Flexiride maker) and shows that the minimum overhang is 6.12":



The two measurements used to define the width of a torsion axle are: hubface (width over hub faces) and width over mounting brackets. The difference between them each side is the overhang, so:

Hubface = Overhang + Width over mounting brackets + Overhang

The important thing for you to recognise is that it is about 5.7" from the face of the hub to inside of the suspension arm, reducing to about 5.0" in line with the axle. So you need to check three things:

- that the width over the mounting brackets matches your frame;
- that the hubface gives you approx 1" clearance between the tyre sidewall and the trailer body side (you need to know wheel offset and tyre width to work this out);
- that the hubface gives you some clearance (1/4"?) between the suspension arm and the trailer body side - the alternative is to incorporate a recess in the body side, into which the suspension arm moves on full bounce suspension movement.

Andrew

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks Andrew for the reply. I will be ordering the 56" width axle. I will be adding about 1" on each side for a total trailer width of 58". Does this cause the suspension arm to rub on the trailer? From what I think the chart is showing, is if I use a 15x6 wheel with 0 backspacing my clearance is about 5" less the amount the tire hangs over the backside of the rim. Is this correct? Should I use a 3 " backspacing with a 1" allowance for the tire (1/2 the width of an 8" tire) keeping the back edge of the tire 1" from the suspension arm. If I'm wrong PLeaseeeeee make a recomendation. Thanks, Steve

[angib]

I have been meaning to look at the question of selecting axle widths, so I've made a start with your case.

Here is:
- a Flexiride 2000lb axle;
- a 56" wide frame;
- a 58" wide body;
- 15x6 zero offset wheels carrying 205/75R15 tires.





So a 70" hubface axle will give the clearances shown above. Given the 2" tire-body clearance, you could also use wheels with up to 1" inset.

The 7" overhang is only a little bigger than the minimum 6.12" overhang for this axle. So, for example, even if the body sides sat on the frame, the axle hubface width could not be reduced by much - the minimum overhang would be reached before the tire came close to hitting the sidewall.

Please note I've only shown the offset of the wheel - if you want to measure backspace instead, that would be a little over 3" on the zero offset wheel.

Anyone got comments/corrections?

For anyone looking at using the Flexiride axle with smaller wheels, it looks to me as though 13" wheels would fit - 14" certainly will.

Andrew

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks Andrew, Thats what I needed to know. I am placing my frame order ASAP.

[mikeschn]

Andrew,

Good job on that cross section. Do you think you could add a typical fender to your cross section? Does that open a can of worms?

Mike...

[angib]

Good job on that cross section. Do you think you could add a typical fender to your cross section? Does that open a can of worms?

Done - see above.

Andrew