HarborFreight Plans & waterproofing

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HarborFreight Plans & waterproofing

Postby RSBP » Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:51 pm

I'm a newbie and I love this site! :D I'm planning on getting the HarborFreight 4'x8' trailer and build a "Dan Jones Cargo Pod" type teardrop since I plan to live in it over the summer. I'll only be in it to write and process photos (digital) or to sleep - but more head room seems to make more sense. I'm not an engineer - but before I start, will the HF 4x8 be a good size for this sort of design?

Also, I noticed a variety of skins on these teardrops - from wood to aluminum or paint. I'm considering either an oil-based exterior paint or aluminum flashing adhered with pop rivets...a lotta work, but a nice look and waterproof right? Any advice or suggestions on coverings that will last and not leak?

Speaking of leaks... :oops: what is the best way to waterproof the BOTTOM of the teardrop to keep road water and crud from seeping through the floorboards? Paint? Fiberglass? Asphalt sealer? Should I use pressure treated plywood on the floor too?

One more question! I have good woodworking skills and a month off to work on this. How long will it take (hours) to build just the shell? I can work on the inside as I go along... Thanks!!

Becky
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Postby Arne » Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:59 pm

The h/f trailer is a good base.. though only 8 feet long, we (me) often hang the tear off front and back (mine is 10 feet long) to get some extra length.
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Re: HarborFreight Plans & waterproofing

Postby asianflava » Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:12 am

RSBP wrote:Speaking of leaks... :oops: what is the best way to waterproof the BOTTOM of the teardrop to keep road water and crud from seeping through the floorboards? Paint? Fiberglass? Asphalt sealer? Should I use pressure treated plywood on the floor too?


Don't talk to me about leaks. :oops: At least the bottom is fine because I used this goop. It's cheap stuff and isn't that bad to apply. Don't mention pressure treated wood. :DOH2: Everyone has pretty much agreed that it is a bad idea since it is such a small enclosed space.
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RSBP wrote:One more question! I have good woodworking skills and a month off to work on this. How long will it take (hours) to build just the shell? I can work on the inside as I go along... Thanks!!


At least one of us has the Skillz. If you have all your materials on hand, the shell of a 4X8 trailer can probably be done in a weekend (no hatch or doors). I found it easier to do the cabinets with no roof. I installed the roof last, many months later.
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Postby weasel » Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:36 am

If you plan on alot of time in one, go 5x10. I'm buildin' a Weekender and went 5x10. Got 8' inside and 2' galley and storage. Gonna install a a foldable table and use roller seat without the wheels to sit on. plenty of head room.
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Re: HarborFreight Plans & waterproofing

Postby Joanne » Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:31 pm

RSBP wrote:I'm a newbie and I love this site! :D I'm planning on getting the HarborFreight 4'x8' trailer and build a "Dan Jones Cargo Pod" type teardrop since I plan to live in it over the summer. I'll only be in it to write and process photos (digital) or to sleep - but more head room seems to make more sense. I'm not an engineer - but before I start, will the HF 4x8 be a good size for this sort of design?

Also, I noticed a variety of skins on these teardrops - from wood to aluminum or paint. I'm considering either an oil-based exterior paint or aluminum flashing adhered with pop rivets...a lotta work, but a nice look and waterproof right? Any advice or suggestions on coverings that will last and not leak?

Speaking of leaks... :oops: what is the best way to waterproof the BOTTOM of the teardrop to keep road water and crud from seeping through the floorboards? Paint? Fiberglass? Asphalt sealer? Should I use pressure treated plywood on the floor too?

One more question! I have good woodworking skills and a month off to work on this. How long will it take (hours) to build just the shell? I can work on the inside as I go along... Thanks!!

Becky


Hey Becky,

It's nice to be able to welcome another lady to the list. We have quite a group of lady builders, and now we have one more. I started my tear with a few welding skills but no woodworking skills. Since you have good woodworking skills, this should be pretty easy for you. I'm having to learn as I go.

Because the interior of these trailers are pretty small, I would stay away from pressure treated wood. I would be concerned with the level of chemicals in the air of the cabin.

The size of the trailer depends on how you want to use it and what you have to tow with. More room is always nice, but the smaller trailers are easier to tow. I'm building a 5 x 10 because I wanted the extra room.

Are you a photographer? The section of your post where you talk of processing your digital photos makes me ask.

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Postby Miriam C. » Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:22 am

Welcome Becky,
Nice to have more estrogen in the mix. :lol:

Remember the Pictures and since you have woodworking skills, Share lots of pictures with written discriptions, types of wood, finishes, well you get it. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Have fun.
Miriam

Oh yeah, if you look at the Generic Benroy plans in the design sec. it shows how to take HF trailer to 5 wide. Should fit any design. :D
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Re: HarborFreight Plans & waterproofing

Postby mikeschn » Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:18 am

Hi Becky,

Welcome to the forum...

So you want to live in a trailer over the summer... Can I suggest the largest teardrop you can build... Include a table and stove in there... in case of bad weather.

RSBP wrote: but before I start, will the HF 4x8 be a good size for this sort of design?


You might want to consider the red trailer in a 5x8 size...

RSBP wrote:Also, I noticed a variety of skins on these teardrops - from wood to aluminum or paint. I'm considering either an oil-based exterior paint or aluminum flashing adhered with pop rivets...a lotta work, but a nice look and waterproof right? Any advice or suggestions on coverings that will last and not leak?


The easiest way to skin a teardrop, and keep it watertight, and hide a bunch of imperfections, is paint. Dale is painting one right now... that's a good thread to follow.


RSBP wrote:Speaking of leaks... :oops: what is the best way to waterproof the BOTTOM of the teardrop to keep road water and crud from seeping through the floorboards? Paint? Fiberglass? Asphalt sealer? Should I use pressure treated plywood on the floor too?


I agree with the other comments, stay away from pressure treated wood, and use that cheap roofing sealer on the bottom...


RSBP wrote:One more question! I have good woodworking skills and a month off to work on this. How long will it take (hours) to build just the shell? I can work on the inside as I go along... Thanks!!


I've built several teardrops, and I can tell you that building that in a month is an awfully aggressive schedule. It can be done, but you gotta be good, you gotta be fast, and you got to have stanima. I would suggest you allow a little more time than that...

Mike...
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Postby bennelson » Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:04 pm

Hey Becky,

Saw you are a photojournalist.

I am a video guy and was thinking that wandering around a few Teardrop Gatherings with an HD Cam would be fun - make a TearDropamentary...

If I ever finish my teardrop, I will have a place to sleep and edit video.

Is "The Movie Trailer" too bad of a pun?.....

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Postby Micro469 » Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:42 am

bennelson wrote:Hey Becky,

Saw you are a photojournalist.

I am a video guy and was thinking that wandering around a few Teardrop Gatherings with an HD Cam would be fun - make a TearDropamentary...

If I ever finish my teardrop, I will have a place to sleep and edit video.

Is "The Movie Trailer" too bad of a pun?.....-Ben


How about "The Casting Couch"?? :lol:
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Thinking of HF trailer

Postby doctormap » Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:22 pm

I am also considering all the options at this point. I am at this time
planning to use the 1800# HF 4x8 trailer. It is on sale right at the moment
for only $299 (usually $399). I don't have the extra cash at this point to
buy this, but probably will do that next year. I am using the CD by Steve
Fredricks to build my own version of the "Lil Diner" with some
modifications, and am planning to weld on some side extensions on the HF
trailer to support a 5 ft wide trailer. This will put the wheels under the
sides of the trailer, but since the bed is 5 in. higher than the frame, it will
easily clear the fenders, so that the wheels will not interfere with the bed.
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Postby GregB » Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:46 pm

I'm in the process of doing the same thing to the same trailer. I have found that the wheels only come to about 1" over the frame (with the axle under the springs) and they will need less than 3" of suspension travel.

If you decide to get that chassis, someone here will probably point you to a 20% off coupon that you can use at HF. It works even with the sale price.

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