Smooth belly pan

Ask questions about Harbor Freight trailers, or questions about building your own...

Smooth belly pan

Postby dwgriff1 » Sun Apr 30, 2006 3:18 pm

Somewhere mention was made of making the trailer pan smooth, without any extensions for frame or axle.

I am using a torsion axle, so I could do it. Would it be worth the trouble to recess the axle beam (about 2" square) inside the floor assembly?

Would I gain enough effeciency to ever be worth the construction trouble?

My tear will weight around 400# and will be pulled by a small coupe', but would that matter?

dave
User avatar
dwgriff1
500 Club
 
Posts: 947
Images: 4
Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 4:20 pm
Location: SW Idaho

Postby madjack » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:37 pm

...just my /02 worth...unless a belly pan is completely and totallly sealed to the bottom then you are asking for moisture retention problems with your floor...you are much better off with no belly pan and a well sealed floor than a belly pan that has any way for moisture to get under it...once under a pan, moisture has no way out and will rot your floor...........
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana

Re: Smooth belly pan

Postby angib » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:51 pm

dwgriff1 wrote:Would I gain enough effeciency to ever be worth the construction trouble?

Nope, never, in my opinion. Your trailer will be sitting in turbulent wake coming off the tow car and so there is little point adding a belly pan.

To minimise drag, make sure your trailer fits inside the 'hole' made by the tow vehicle, so you don't want the trailer extending above the tow vehicle's roof or below its underside or beyond its sides. Also make sure the trailer is sitting level, not sloping up or down to the hitch.

If you are using a small coupe tow car, the trailer will probably be sticking up above the tow car - anything you can do to lower the trailer (as long as its ground clearance stays more than the tow car's) will help.

Andrew
User avatar
angib
5000 Club
5000 Club
 
Posts: 5783
Images: 231
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2004 2:04 pm
Location: (Olde) England
Top

Postby dwgriff1 » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:56 pm

Thank you both.

I could figure a way to make it drain I think: (leave it open, so there is no place for water to collect).

But, it is easier yet to not do it at all!

You saved me a lot of work.

dave
User avatar
dwgriff1
500 Club
 
Posts: 947
Images: 4
Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 4:20 pm
Location: SW Idaho
Top

Postby Arne » Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:43 pm

I plan on cutting the windward edges of the x-members at a 45 degree angle. Don't know if it makes any difference, but it makes me feel better. They will be laid flat and only 3/4 or 1-1/2 inches tall... still deciding on that one.

I would have no problem with covering the bottom if that was my plan. With roofing tar on it, I am quite certain no moisture would get in from the bottom, but if something were to get in via the interior (spilled drink, roof leak), that would definitely present a real problem. Since the mattress covers 80 percent of the floor, and I have a rug on the rest, I see no good reason to do so, unless it were for strength, as it would add considerably to the rigidity of the floor.
www.freewebs.com/aero-1
---
.
I hope I never get too old to play (Arne, Sept 11, 2010)
.
User avatar
Arne
Mr. Subject Line
 
Posts: 5383
Images: 96
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2004 12:25 pm
Location: Middletown, CT
Top


Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests