HF frame bolted directly to the axle

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Postby Denny Unfried » Sat May 27, 2006 6:23 pm

Seems like you could use a 4 inch drop axle that would get you close to the ground. My finished tear has 10" of road clearance with this one and P205R-15 tires.

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Postby Arne » Sat May 27, 2006 6:26 pm

I did the above notching (per Mike's note/pic) and the trailer/car are level with each other: looks good.... any lower and it could drag too easily....

I'm referring back to the red h/f trailer.
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Postby doug hodder » Sat May 27, 2006 8:00 pm

Doc...I wouldn't do it...no suspension and a bolt together frame might require a chase vehicle to pick up the pieces...and if it comes apart, it'll get exciting real fast...just my opinion...for whatever that's worth...Doug
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Postby SteveH » Sat May 27, 2006 10:42 pm

I was told once by a "professional" at a trailer parts supply house that you could run a trailer without any suspension, but you had to reduce the capacity of the components by 50%...i.e. if you had a 2000 pound axel, with no suspension, it should be considered a 1000 pound axel.

Have a friend that actually has a street rod luggage trailer like that, and I don't like it at all....the beer is always spewing all over the place when opened. :x
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Thanks to you all for your replies

Postby doctormap » Tue May 30, 2006 7:39 am

Thanks very much for all the input on this subject. I am going to have to weigh the advantages of having a larger interior (Lil Diner) versus having to deal with the effects of having a larger exterior (5 foot height). I will be pulling this with my restored 1948 Studebaker, so I need it to be as aerodynamic as possible, as it doesn't have a lot of extra horsepower.

I like the flipped axle idea, at least that gives me a few inches more to work with.

Thanks again for the input.
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