HF frame bolted directly to the axle

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HF frame bolted directly to the axle

Postby doctormap » Fri May 26, 2006 1:39 pm

I am still working on the design for my teardrop, and I have read several posts that basically state that there is very little deflection (vertical dimensional change) on the HF trailer even with maximal loading. I was thinking, in order to lower the overall height of the tear, in order to improve (lessen) wind resistance on the highway, I wonder if it would really change the ride of the trailer that much to eliminate the springs entirely, and bolt the trailer frame directly to the axle.

What do you think? I am planning to build a modified "Lil Diner" from Steve Fredericks, which is another foot taller than a standard tear, and I want to lower it as much as possible.
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Postby asianflava » Fri May 26, 2006 2:32 pm

I wouldn't do it.
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Postby toypusher » Fri May 26, 2006 2:39 pm

You really should have a suspension of some kind. Try a 'drop axle' to lower the tear and mount it over the springs vs under the springs. If you are worried about it not flexing, then just remove one of the spring leafs. I believe that a torsion axle would allow it to set pretty low also.
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Postby Chip » Fri May 26, 2006 2:42 pm

Doc,, ditto what Rocky said,,, especially if you are using trailer tires,, the dang thing will be airborne more than its on the ground,,, If ya gotta lower it,, get a drop axle or a tortion axle,,,

Even though the springs done flex much with a static load, the sudden pothole or bump or pavment elevation change do make them flex and any cushion is better than no cushion at all,,,

Doc thats just an opinion,,, that will be 50.00 bucks,,, cash check or insurance,, :lol:

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Postby Ma3tt » Fri May 26, 2006 3:21 pm

Imagine a dutch oven getting bounced around eeeeeeek. And the barley pop might get shaken up. Keep the springs! When I ordered my torsion axle I could have ordered it to lower the trailer 2-3 inches but kept it stock.
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Postby An Ol Timer » Fri May 26, 2006 3:40 pm

We looked into removing all but the main leaf in the spring and then using shocks to soften the ride and carry some of the load. There are a lot of lighter shocks out there for go-carts, motorcycles, etc. There are single and double acting ones as well spring assisted. I have quite a few bookmarked yet. We were looking at double acting spring assisted in the range of 400# if I remember right. Our reasoning was to soften the ride but a lot of people change axles and go to auto tires to do the same thing. I never compared the cost.
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Postby Nitetimes » Sat May 27, 2006 12:46 am

NO! Even using car tires and keeping the pressure low you will eventually smash the frame or bend/break an axle, maybe both. And what the others said about the trailer (and it's contents) getting beat to death is true. You need some sort of suspension or you'll rattle the entire trailer apart unless of course all the roads you will be traveling are smooth and free from potholes and construction sites, in which case you obviously couldn't live or travel in PA!
I have one small, light trailer that I use to haul my quad on that has no suspension, with the quad on and about 15lbs. of air in the tires it's not bad but without a load it's rarely on the road, kinda scarey in a bend! It works but it is slowly beating the trailer apart.
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Postby PaulC » Sat May 27, 2006 12:53 am

Hey Doc, Try removing all the suspension from your car and then drive it around for a week. Would'nt do it? Then why consider it for what will be your home for short periods of time and will probably end up being dragged over all sorts of roads. Nup--No way----Never.
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Postby dwgriff1 » Sat May 27, 2006 1:39 am

Not too long ago the kids around here in the back country were taking all of the suspension out of their little pickups to "slam" them. They were low alright.

I remembering following them and seeing the poor driver bounce round -- on what I thought was smooth pavement. He must have trying to impress somoene, but my back hurt just watching.

Long years ago I built a trailer, and bolted the axle on direct. Shucks I was just going to haul carpet. That was one hard riding mistake.

My tear with a torsion axle will have about 12" clearance, and others have talked about going lower. With a 48" high tear, mine is shorter than my five foot two wife.

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Postby surveytech » Sat May 27, 2006 3:38 am

maybe try the Tractor Supply trailer. It has the axle above the springs and sits a bit lower overall compared to the Harbor Freight.
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Postby Arne » Sat May 27, 2006 8:37 am

This is anecdotal of my own experience. I put the axle of my h/f 1,800# trailer on top of the springs, after having notched the spring mount. That left me with about 2" of clearance before the u-bolts hit the frame. I run 30# of air pressure in the tires.

When I removed the tires to regrease the hubs, there was evidence of the u-bolts hitting the frame, i.e., paint had been removed by the contact. But, I have not found any particular damage other than that. Since there was no bent metal, I'm guessing the contact was infrequent not not substantial...

I would never consider building without springs.
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Postby Darren » Sat May 27, 2006 10:11 am

The HF frame, because it's straight, won't allow a major drop without some changes. You would have to modify the frame and leaf spring holders but you could put a C-notch over the axel and then fabricate some "lowering blocks". You would put the axel above the springs with the blocks between them. I did the axel flip on my trailer to get it a little lower but it has no additional space for blocks without modifying the frame. It is doable.
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Postby madjack » Sat May 27, 2006 12:50 pm

NO ....for all of the reasons previously stated................................... 8)
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Postby Miriam C. » Sat May 27, 2006 3:13 pm

I wouldn't for one simple reason. I have a canoe trailer with no springs and it only carries 110#. I can't tie the canoe down enough to keep it tight. It bounces off the frame a couple of inches. Now, I have an older coleman with the keel guard so it couldn't care less about the bounce. Your wood, glass and bolts are going to care, to say nothing of your personal belongings.

OH yeah and if ya bounce it often enough you will effect your ball and coupler. Strip the threads and you will wear your arm out changing it.

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Postby Noob » Sat May 27, 2006 3:36 pm

Victor Star wrote:The HF frame, because it's straight, won't allow a major drop without some changes. You would have to modify the frame and leaf spring holders but you could put a C-notch over the axel and then fabricate some "lowering blocks". You would put the axel above the springs with the blocks between them. I did the axel flip on my trailer to get it a little lower but it has no additional space for blocks without modifying the frame. It is doable.


You're in the "same boat" as I...


Like this.


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:D

It doesnt look like you can put much of a "block" in there before you hit the frame. ( and the spring holder dealio, is already notched. )

You can get drop axles, with the above combo... all thet really does is move the wheels up and the trailer down so your axle is at the same height as the sidewall of your tire ! ...and your springs will be the lowest part of the set-up. (ie. no ground clerance ) plus it will look like poop.

The only answer I found, is to buy torsion axles...
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