HF and TSC trailers

[BK One]

Hi all. I've been lurking for about a year and finally bought a trailer yesterday and am itching to get started. Unfortunately I have to convert my shed to teardrop garage first (ad 4' to it).

Wanted all to know that on top of the current HF 20% coupon, our local HF store has the 1800# trailer marked down from $399 to $299. With coupon makes it $240. The 1175# is marked down to $240; $192 with coupon. I don't think you can do better for the money on a 4'x8' frame.

I went to my local TSC with the intention of ordering their floorless 4'x8' trailer. Our store actually had a half dozen on the lot for $289. The springs are welded on and would have to be moved. Personally, I wasn't that impressed with the trailer. I think the heavy duty HF will fit my needs better, even though I'm a much bigger fan of the welded -vs- bolted frame.

Hope this helps others like me that have no business trying to weld a custom trailer!

[madjack]

BK, welcome into the light...thanks for that info and we will be looking forward to seeing pics of your build...if you've been lurking awhile, you know we just luvs da pics ...what profile/type of trailer are you thinking of building...
madjack

[BK One]

Thanks for the welcome. My plan has changed greatly since I first found this board. I'm planning a tin top woody that will somewhat resemble a small cabin car in profile. It will be a 5x8 platform built out over the wheels. My wife and I can live with the restricted leg space and the narrow wheel base will fit better in our shed.

Many more questions inthe near future!

[Arne]

Bolt it together, take it to a welder and have him/her weld just the tops and bottoms.... that should be plenty, and not cost much, probably 1/2 hour at the most.

[Finntec]

I have a TS trailer. I wish I got a HF.
Here is why:
1. The bolts create a challenge to having a flat floor. I had to cut holes to countersink the bolts.

2. The TS uses an L angle iron unlike the nicer HF which is a flat U channel.

3. I already have to repaint the trailer, it has started to rust. (I keep it in the garage too) It is only a year old.

4. The cross members are not level. Some are mounted above the main frame, some are below.

Just my experience. Next trailer will be custom made, or a HF.

[Endo]

Bolt it together, take it to a welder and have him/her weld just the tops and bottoms.... that should be plenty, and not cost much, probably 1/2 hour at the most.

That is what I did. I bolted it together and welded the joints. I also added a rear hitch and steel corner plates for my jacks.

[surveytech]

I have a TS trailer. I wish I got a HF.
Here is why:
1. The bolts create a challenge to having a flat floor. I had to cut holes to countersink the bolts.

.

Which bolts are these. Isnt the frame all welded?

[BK One]

Endo, what kind of paint job do you have on your trailer? I don't think I want to leave mine red.

[Endo]

Endo, what kind of paint job do you have on your trailer? I don't think I want to leave mine red.

Rust-oleum Hammered finish....Black

It is available in spray cans or brush on/roll on. I used the spray can.

I didn't care for the red color either.

Here is a link.
http://rust-oleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=7 ... d=21&SBL=1

Available at Lowes or Home Depot.

Lowes also sells little hole plugs or "plastic caps" that I used to fill all of the "extra" holes in the HF trailer. I put the plastic caps in first then painted the trailer. The paint protects the caps from the Sun/UV light.

[surveytech]

I picked up a quart of the hammered black at wally world for about 12 bucks.
Painted the frame before I did any construction to protect the steel better.
then painted the side rails after the walls were done. (hides the dings and other construction blemishes well)
I think I used about a half a can.
good stuff!

Walter

[H-Balm]

Endo, forgive a rookie, but.....

tell me about your rear hitch and jack plates. I don't really get what they will do for you.

Thanks.

[Endo]

Endo, forgive a rookie, but.....

tell me about your rear hitch and jack plates. I don't really get what they will do for you.

Thanks.

Rear hitch is for a hitch rack to haul more "stuff" or for a hitch mounted bike rack.

The plates are so I could bolt my stabilizer jack to them.
While at camp I drop down the jacks and level with the tongue jack.

Here is a picture of the jacks.
The type I have are really just to stabilize the trailer not to jack it up.

Bike rack link
http://www.backrack.net/bicycle_hitch_r ... #hitchbike
Hitch rack link
http://www.truckspecialties.com/hitch_rack.htm

These are not the ones I have but they are good examples

[H-Balm]

Thanks Endo, you're a good person.

Now I understand.

That bike idea sounds pretty good.

So do those stabalizers. Do they stay attached when in motion? If so, how low do they hang?

[Endo]

Thanks Endo, you're a good person.

Now I understand.

That bike idea sounds pretty good.

So do those stabalizers. Do they stay attached when in motion? If so, how low do they hang?

The jacks fold up when towing.
They hang down a few inches when folded.
Here is a picture, it's not the best but you can see the jacks in the folded position.

[greeng0at]

Endo,

It looks like you left the axle in the default position for that HF trailer- I'm guessing it worked out in terms of tongue weight? Any idea how much tongue weight you have, given the weight of the galley at the far rear? I am in the process of putting my trailer frame together, so I want to plan for moving the axle if it looks like it is necessary. Thanks!

Brian

-edit- nevermind... I checked some of the builds up in the design library, and it suggests moving the axle back 4". But still, if anyone has no problems with the axle in the default position, please weigh in...