Bad hitch from uHaul?

[Finntec]

There is a 1/6" gap between the reciever and the hitch. This small movement at the hitch translates to a much greater hitch travel (3/8") at the ball end of the receiver. It is kind of scary. In a test run around the town, I found that the trailer jumped up a bit when stoping. It actually sounded worse than it looked. BTY I have a 1 1/2" hitch.

I went back to the installer and asked about this, and they said it was how they all are. They have been doing it that way for years.

I told them the last three 2" hitches I had, hardly had any play in them. They said that is unusual. They said to take it to Cole Muffler and have them weld it on. I said, I could have done that in the 1st place and I want to use the hitch for other accesories why would I need you guys? They said uHauls don't weld anymore after someone burned up a customer's car. I asked for my money back and I would go somewhere else to have a 2" hitch put on. They said a 2" hitch would be too heavy for the car,(2006 Subaru Forester) and said I would have to talk to the manager in the morning. Call him tomorrow.

So what do you think?
Would it be safe to make a shim out of a metal sheet to fill the gap? Is a gap like this normal or am I being given a run around?

[madjack]

...sounds like a relative load to me...I have a 1.25" reciever hitch on my S10 Blazer and a 2" on my Aztek...both from U-Haul...the 1.25 is very tight and the 2" a small tad loose.(nothing to worry over)...the 2" hitch is not to heavy in itself it is just that its capacity exceeds that of the car...

...I put a wrap of duct tape on the 2" one and cured its "rattle"...a shim made for yours would probably make it OK (maybe)......
madjack

[Finntec]

Jack,
Thanks for the input. I'll try the shim and duct tape method. I was kinda shocked to see that there was so much play in the hitch. -Ray

If anyone else has had this type of loose tolerance in their hitch receiver I'd appreciate your solutions to the situation too. Thanks in advance.

[Chris C]

Ray,

I've heard of people drilling a hole on the bottom and side of the receiver and having a nut welded over each hole and running bolts through them to tighten the hitch stub. Sounds like overkill to me considering Madjack's solution.

[rainjer]

BTY I have a 1 1/2" hitch.

Are you sure:

All I find is a class II that is 1 1/4". It maybe you have a 1 1/2" receiver & 1 1/4" drawbar.

Did you get the hitch or the drawbar from U-haul?

[BrwBier]

Perhaps a different brand of draw bar might give you a better fit.

[jagular7]

Both the hitch frame and the coupler are mfr'd with gross tolerances. Sometimes these tolerances are tight, other loose. I prefer loose as I remove my coupler to swap to something else. I have several couplers using different size balls, some couplers have a deeper drop/rise, and I use my hitch frame as a point to pull other vehicles to safety with a strap. I once had to take a grinder to a coupler that wouldn't fit into my hitch frame. The paint on it was that thick.

To add, I've see couplers which wouldn't even pull out with another vehicle tied to it and the pin out. That is rust-welded at its best....

If you want to lesson any noise you may be having, add some silicon sealant to the hitch frame hole. Add your coupler before it totally dries. You may have to do this several times.

[asianflava]

Mine has a lot of slop in it too. The first trip out, it rattled a lot and my wife was nervous about it. The next trip out, it wasn't so bad it only rattled on big bumps. I've heard of people welding a nut but there are stickers that say, "do not weld or modify".

I have been meaning to investigate this so now is as good a time as any.

http://www.bike-racks-plus.com/bike_rac ... sories.htm


http://www.hitches-forless.com/bike_car ... sories.htm

[Finntec]

I got the hitch and reciever both from uHaul. Today I tried the shim and tape. It worked ok, but I think I'll order and try one of the mechanical noise reducers above. Thanks for all the tips. I'll try them Sunday, and let you know my results. Off to get TD supplies. -Ray

[Chris C]

Thanks for the link, Asianflava. Can't tell for sure, but it looks as if that little tongue on the back side is tapered two ways....................looks like a pretty slick solution.

[Leon]

My motorhome hitch has play in it and when I tow the car carrier with a 2 ton vehicle on it, any sudden moves sound like the back half of the motorhome will fall off. I found an insert that was snug and after I left it in there too long, I had to beat it out with a maul. I'll live with some play.

[SteveH]

...I put a wrap of duct tape on the 2" one and cured its "rattle"...

Don't you just love it...duct tape to the rescue again! Thanks, Jack...hadn't thought of that one.

[Finntec]

I was thinking, why did I spend $250 on a hitch I have to shim with my own sheet metal and duct tape? One the other hand...the tape and shim seems to work well . I guess it just goes to show that nothing is ever good enough and all things can be modified. Now I can buy more gear!

[Finntec]

Asianflava,
I am going to order one of those anti rattle devices. (I should get it by Wednesday. 3 days from TX to NY.)

The uHaul installer/dealer also told me about drilling and welding a nut on and putting a screw in there. He said they dont do it, but someone else could. I didnt like that idea. I thought it would void the warrantee.

[BrwBier]

Would plastic, like from a milk jug work. It would be cheep and easy to replace when worn.