Lil Diner stuff

[mikeschn]

Dear Steve and Mike,

Is there any specific reason you chose EPS (polystyrene) over Polyureathane foam for the insulation?

If you mean this stuff... http://www.sprayfoam.org/

I don't have the equipment to spray foam in. EPS is cheap, effective, and available just down the road from me!

Mike...

[Steve Frederick]

If you mean foil-faced urethane foamboard, Glue won't stick well to the foil face..That's why I don't use it! Besides, Mike brought a load of EPS out with the frame!

[Guy]

Dear Mike,

Sorry Mike. I did not mean spraying yourself. I meant rigid sheets like these http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=frameSe ... /tuffr.htm

They are widely available. Please do not buy them from DOW since I am an Agent Orange person and would not be promoting Dow Chem.

Poly ure or Polyiso are basically the same. They have almost double the effective R VALUE of styrene and hold up better over the years. I do know they are more expensive , although I do not know how much so.

I was just wondering. If weight is one of the overiding quests, then a 1/2" frame with rigid urethane would be 1/3 lighter, just as structurally sound, and more insulating than 3/4" EPS.

A great site comparing the two for builders and architects www.thermocore.com.

[mexican tear]

Those Unimogs would look better with a teardrop behind them.



kai

[Guy]

Dear Steve F,

Thanx for updating the Build Journal. Nice move on the ribs.

Steve, you seemed to have switched to the Roto-zip from the router. Any reason? How are the Roto-zips?

[Steve Frederick]

Dear Steve F,

Thanx for updating the Build Journal. Nice move on the ribs.

Steve, you seemed to have switched to the Roto-zip from the router. Any reason? How are the Roto-zips?

I'm using the roto-zip bit only, in an adapter for the router. The bit produces a kerf of 1/8", just right for the headliner plywood that I'll use! I made a starter pass with a regular 1/8" spiral bit, then followed with the roto bit in three shallow passes. The zip-bits work great, just go shallow and slowly.
In practice, the off cut piece will be cut up to make the filler blocks that go between the roof spars. On the stripper, I made all those parts one at a time. Very tedious work! I think that this method will save a lot of work.
Glad you enjoy the website! Thanx!

Zip Bit Adapter

Cut out the headliner ledge

Cut the filler blocks...

[OurStuff4You]

All this is why I won't attempt building a teardrop .... you guys are amazing!

[Steve Frederick]

I know someone who will build one for you!!

[mikeschn]

All this is why I won't attempt building a teardrop .... you guys are amazing!

Rhonda,

It's time to bite the bullet and have one built for you to match your little Metro. Are you ready?

Mike...

[OurStuff4You]

Getting close Mike. I thought for sure we'd be working on fixing up a trailer over this winter, but "our" trailer hasn't come along yet. However, when we've looked at the "pre-built" ones they've been out of our price range. While part of me wants to stay vintage, part of me would love one built to match the Met. Would be awesome cool....

[mikeschn]

Getting close Mike. I thought for sure we'd be working on fixing up a trailer over this winter, but "our" trailer hasn't come along yet. However, when we've looked at the "pre-built" ones they've been out of our price range. While part of me wants to stay vintage, part of me would love one built to match the Met. Would be awesome cool....

Rhonda,

email Steve Frederick... I'll bet you could work out something with him...

Mike...

[OurStuff4You]

Okay, sent out an email to Steve. Now I have to talk hubby into changing gears. This would also mean that I'd have to figure out exactly what I'd want in the tear ... and how to accomplish it! And yes Mike, that cutout you gave me is sitting right in front of my computer. I've been very quiet lately (lots going on) but still watch the boards and dream about my next trailer.....

[JunkMan]

[quote]I'm using the roto-zip bit only, in an adapter for the router. The bit produces a kerf of 1/8", just right for the headliner plywood that I'll use! I made a starter pass with a regular 1/8" spiral bit, then followed with the roto bit in three shallow passes. The zip-bits work great, just go shallow and slowly.
[/quote]

Steve, those roto-zip bits sound good, can you go through 1 1/2" with them? I'm thinking of using 1 1/2" insulation on my walls, so would need 1 1/2" framing.

Also wondering how everyone cuts out their templates, do you freehand it? I was wondering If I could make a router guide that used string, with 2 fixed points, and wrapping around the router base somehow, kind of like the way it shows you how to draw ovals on angib's site.

And last, how do you keep Gorrilla Glue from foaming out and getting all over your finish? Could you put masking tape along the seam, and still be able to remove it after the glue set? Elmers is easy because you can see if it oozes out right away, then wipe it up with a damp rag, but the things I have used Gorilla glue on all had glue ooze out after a while.

[Steve Frederick]

Pryed myself out of the Lazyboy.. I got a bit more done on the twins..
I got the windows cut into the doors. Mike has one door, I have two. We are using the same windows for the doors, so I cut them out together. I built-up the framing for the door panels too. Tommorrow, I'll get started on the wall insulation and pre-wire rough in.
Mike's Diner

My Twin Diner

A door, "clamped" to the bench to keep it flat while glue sets.

[mikeschn]

That sure is looking sweet!

Are you going to hang the doors now too, or wait until it's installed on the trailer?

Mike...