Wall / sides construction

Important Information and Stickies...
(Threads with essential information about building teardrops)

Wall / sides construction

Postby ditchdoctor » Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:03 pm

I have been seeing different types of wall or side wall construction. From just 3/4 plywood to 1/4 outside and 1/8 -1/4 inside with 3/4 foam inserts. Is one better than the other. Is there benefits to each.

Thanks

Steve Taskay
ditchdoctor
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2017 2:33 am

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby tony.latham » Sun Jul 09, 2017 6:05 pm

ditchdoctor wrote:I have been seeing different types of wall or side wall construction. From just 3/4 plywood to 1/4 outside and 1/8 -1/4 inside with 3/4 foam inserts. Is one better than the other. Is there benefits to each.

Thanks

Steve Taskay


I've used pine for the skeleton, 3/4" AC ply, and 1/2" AC ply. I've sheathed with 1/4" plywood subfloor and 1/8" Baltic Birch. If I were going to build a fourth, I'd use 3/4" AC plywood for the skeleton and 1/4" subfloor. 1/2" for the skeleton is a bit skinny if you are using the Fredrick's method and need the lip to hang your ceiling and roof on. Using pine (boards) for the skeleton is much more labor intensive.

I like using the 1/4" plywood subfloor for the sheeting since it's higher quality than 1/4" AC. The 1/8" BB is great stuff but comes in 5x5' sheets––which necessitates an interior seam––and the 4x8' subfloor sheets work with no visible interior seam in a 10' long teardrop. (I don't use luan, the stuff I've seen is on the junky side.)

Before you select your skeleton thickness, make sure you can get the foam in that thickness too. :thumbsup:

Tony
Image
User avatar
tony.latham
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 2243
Images: 17
Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:03 pm
Location: Middle of Idaho on the edge of nowhere

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby QueticoBill » Sun Jul 09, 2017 6:35 pm

Odd but I'm finding 1" foam much more common than 3/4" these days. I do have a pile of clear 5/4 I could plane.
QB
A tear with no name: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67624
QueticoBill
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 520
Images: 22
Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 7:22 am
Location: Oak Park Illinois
Top

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby kokomoto » Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:48 pm

Tony is absolutely spot on about building a skeleton. I biscuit joined a bunch of 1x4s together for wall skeleton, and it did take quite a bit of time. It probably cost more too, and I'm not sure I have gained anything by using that method except experience. When I build the next one, I'll use the 3/4" AC plywood for the skeleton, 1/4" AC on the outer wall skin, and 1/4" on the inside. I insulated the walls and floor with 3/4" white styrofoam. Found it on the shelf at Menards. On my next build, I'll also use factory doors, BTW. Those two things alone will cut the build time considerably.
kokomoto
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 201
Images: 1
Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2016 3:18 pm
Location: SE Tennessee
Top

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby Andrew Herrick » Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:01 pm

I'm in the minority here, but I don't care much for a skeleton. Tried my hand with skeletonized ACX plywood and stick-built 1x3's, both the cheap furring strips and high-quality poplar boards. Whatever your materials, the process is labor intensive, requires lots of air sealing, and once you factor in thermal bridging, you don't get much thermal insulation. However, I will admit, a skeletonized wall is usually quieter.

Personally, I think a 3/4-inch solid plywood wall is the best DIY-friendly solution. No worries about hidden framing, water intrusion, air sealing, anything. It's much more beginner-friendly. You can put in a door, window, or hatch wherever you want. You gain - what - about 25 pounds per wall compared to the typical skeletonized sandwich? That's peanuts.

I use continuous rigid exterior insulation, but that design is deceptively difficult. I think most home builders who want an insulated camper use 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch hardwood plywood skins laminated to 1-inch XPS foam. That's a pretty good design. Just use good glue.
User avatar
Andrew Herrick
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 208
Images: 11
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2016 5:39 pm
Location: Cedar City, Utah
Top

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby QueticoBill » Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:26 am

My observation is the criteria varies. It seems for some foam is only for insulation - thermal and/or acoustical - and for others is structural. Depending on the climate and locations your camping in, the insulation may not be necessary. Depending on your skills and comfort with adhesives, important to realizing the structural attributes of foam, it may not be right for everyone.


Framing between skins may or not be structural, but probably necessary for some blocking or attachment purposes. It would seem that how much frame is needed would determine if solid ply cut out or stick framed.

Ease of construction, how tolerant the design is, even build space could all affect the wall design and details.

And let's not forget "that's the way we've always done it" as an influence. Nothing wrong with proven success. Also nothing wrong with going other directions. Look at the foam, fabric, and adhesive only designs.

So good reasons and justifications for a range of details.
QB
A tear with no name: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67624
QueticoBill
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 520
Images: 22
Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 7:22 am
Location: Oak Park Illinois
Top

Re: Wall / sides construction

Postby daveesl77 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:56 am

Conch Fritter's wall construction, from inside out is as follows:

2.5mm ply
3/4" x 3 skeleton. Solid Ply sections where I'd be cutting windows/doors. 3/4" XPS foamboard. Skeleton boards are all lap joined and everything is glued, all voids filled.
2 mm ply. Sealed on both sides.
3/16" Cedar strips.

Front/top/back are the same, without the cedar strips. Used PMF on the front and rear, used EPDM on the top. Wished I'd just used PMF over the entire structure.

Floor system is way, way over built. Bottom up construction is - 1/2 ply (sealed and covered with PMF and Koolseal). 1.5x4" structural skeleton. All voids filled with XPS foam board and sealed. 1/2" ply. PMF wraps from bottom to over the top edge.

It is absolutely solid as a rock, since the entire structure is a monocoque build. Completely water tight and almost sound proof.

dave
*******
Dave and Regina - Enjoying old age, a LOT!

Build Journal - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62386
User avatar
daveesl77
Donating Member
 
Posts: 769
Images: 271
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2015 4:33 pm
Location: Central Florida
Top


Return to Essential Information about building teardrops

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest