7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Long time propane user, stay away from the campground, hardware store, yaddy-yaddy ... places for the purchase
of the stuff. One, they charge more, as you mentioned they generally don't weigh the cylinders or charge a flatrate.
I take the time to find a propane dealer and buy from them. They can also re-cert. your horizontal cylinder (for a small
fee). You'll get a better price and you know you're getting your monies worth. Heck, by the time you buy/rent 2 or 3 of
the Blue Rhino cylinders you could have paid for the re-cert. and filled it once or twice. Ok, maybe just the re-cert.
but you'll feel better.

hank

[Padilen]

flboy, Howdy;

Long time propane user, stay away from the campground, hardware store, yaddy-yaddy ... places for the purchase
of the stuff. One, they charge more, as you mentioned they generally don't weigh the cylinders or charge a flatrate.
I take the time to find a propane dealer and buy from them. They can also re-cert. your horizontal cylinder (for a small
fee). You'll get a better price and you know you're getting your monies worth. Heck, by the time you buy/rent 2 or 3 of
the Blue Rhino cylinders you could have paid for the re-cert. and filled it once or twice. Ok, maybe just the re-cert.
but you'll feel better.

hank

That's the opposite of what my experience is.


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[flboy]

Thanks all. My main goal was just to get the upright tank which is common so if and when I do run out of propane I have more options other than removing the tank and going to find someone to fill it. With an upright I can do that, or if in a pinch, I can go to almost any convenience store or big box store and exchange. Not ideal for cost... but very convenient. In any case, I will have more options than I do now where I have to remove it and find someone who will fill it, which is sometimes hard to do when traveling. The new upright tanks have the QCC1 connection I can remove without tools and the bracket pops open. So no tools and literally a few seconds to remove. The horizontal is 25 years old at least and has the old type connection and it literally takes me 10 minutes to remove and then same to re-install with the way I had to mount it on the tongue. It has worked for me so far... but always looking to make little improvements!

I also wanted to have a spare tank for the portable grill and Mr. Buddy that I can use on the trailer also.

The rack will be here next week. I will post some pics after installed. I was going to fab something myself, but for $99 shipped from E-bay, I could not build better with my novice welding skills.

[flboy]

For anyone interested, I updated my electrical block diagram to include the portable solar panel and the update with the Victron Battery Monitor. I am cleaning up some wiring and etc. and keep this diagram on inside of cabinet door in case I need to troubleshoot.





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[JRAnt74]

FLboy, i started rereading thru this build and can't seem to find the bit about your battery bank and how you vented it. My question is what type/style of vent did you use? I'm going to be starting a build out in a 7x14 vnose here soon and will need to vent the batteries as well as a propane tank locker (no space outside for tank storage ) I've already started pulling interior panels to insulate and what not, just need a few ideas before i get to far ahead of myself. Thanks in advance!

[Rainier70]

Just a comment on propane tanks. Stay away from Blue Rhino. They have a proprietary valve that only they can fill.
If you have an older out of date 20 lb bbq style tank, the other exchanges will take them in exchange for a current tank. You can sometimes find older tanks at yard sales etc to use for exchange. Check the expiration date and condition of the "new" exchange tank.

Refilling is much cheaper from just about anyone that sells by the gallon.

[John61CT]

Or by the pound.

The key factor is you only pay for what they add.

So in theory they could give you $5 worth topping up a 20# bottle.

I've never come across such a place charging anywhere near as much as the "convenience" sellers.

[John61CT]

Stay away from Blue Rhino. They have a proprietary valve that only they can fill.

I believe no longer true, a class action suit forced them to to go back to standard valves.

But they do continue to short-fill and overcharge.

[flboy]

FLboy, i started rereading thru this build and can't seem to find the bit about your battery bank and how you vented it. My question is what type/style of vent did you use? I'm going to be starting a build out in a 7x14 vnose here soon and will need to vent the batteries as well as a propane tank locker (no space outside for tank storage ) I've already started pulling interior panels to insulate and what not, just need a few ideas before i get to far ahead of myself. Thanks in advance!

I did not build the vent. They are sealed batteries (SLA) and, given the air volume in my camper, existing ventilation in the camper and battery compartment along with proper smart charging, I have had no issues nor expect any. I had originally planned to, and still could add a vent by putting in the vent on the side of the trailer, but it is a low priority for me at this point. My batteries are built into a loosely covered compartment in the closet and extend below the first dinette booth (room for 4 batteries) . The vent I bought and was going to put on the side of the trailer where the battery compartment is, is a 4" round louvered vent. Keep in mind that failure mode of a SLA battery could be to outgas.... so there is always as small risk in a very tight unventilated space.

I am not advocating no vent and should put mine in for the rarest event for added safety. In any case , you can just build a box and use weather stripping to seal the lid off and caulk seams. Vent in the floor and vent out just above the batteries at highest point. It will do the job. You must vent the Vented Lead Acid Batteries (VLA) that require regular maintenance and water to be added.

Propane bottle is outside on the tongue on my CTC.

Pic of where batteries are under floor of closet and first dinette seat.

P.s. I forgot to say that I do have a floor vent hole (used for antenna cables and etc.) and also for the heavier than air sulfates (rotton egg smell) that can occur if overcharged and leaks develop. I believe that is the bad stuff to breathe. It is the odorless hydrogen and oxygen which occurs during overcharging that is a flammability concern . In a SLA battery, normal charging with a smart charger should not outgas. Batteries do not outgas when only discharging.

[flboy]

All that talk about venting and now I will be installing my battery vent. I just bought four 6V 215aH golf cart batteries to upgrade my solar generator and they will require venting as they are not SLA. 430aH with improved discharge capabilities is a nice upgrade for me. I had 3 115aH Group 29 size (345aH total) Exide 12VDC Deep Cycle Marine batteries and on my last trip, one of the batteries began to pull down the bank (shorted plates I am sure). The Marine batteries (not yet 3 years old) are not made to take the beating the golf cart batteries do. Guessing by the much heavier weight, these new Duracell batteries must have a lot more lead in them.



I'll need to look up the specs on the manufacturer website to program my MPPT Solar Charge Controller for these new batteries.

Also got my vertical mount LP bottle holder. A few upgrade projects for this weekend. Install pics later.




Going to try the single tank cover as well.




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[flboy]

Propane tank installed. The cover actually fits and looks nice. I like it much better now that I can use any 20lb tank and need no tools to change the tank out.


While I was working up on the trailer tongue, I wired the emergency "break away switch" to my house batteries and took out that little battery the manufacturer put on the tongue which tested bad. I had already brought power up to the electric jack, so I figured why not use that. While testing it, the plastic keyway that pulls away and allows the contacts to close just broke off from inside and the contacts are jammed open. They are only about $8.00 on Amazon, so no big deal... the bad part is that the breakaway brakes would have failed the same way if it actually broke away. For those with electric brakes, you may want to test your breakaway switch and check your battery for the brakes if you haven't in a while. When my replacement switch arrives , it will get hooked up to the house battery bank so I do not have to worry about that little battery on the tongue doing its job. Little things to keep an eye on!


Now to work on swapping out the battery bank.




I put on a new 2 stage regulator which has the hand turn fitting for the newer tanks while I was at it. I kept the old one as backup if ever needed. It came off the 20+ year old donor trailer.. so no telling when it would give up the ghost on me.



It all looks much cleaner up there now. Also a good white surface area on the cover for some stickers!




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[flboy]

This is what I have for the battery compartment vent. The cable pass in the floor through serves as an fresh air inlet and will allow the heavier sulphuric gas to drop out in the event of overcharging. I am going to use 2 of the louvered vents on the side at the top of the compartment above the batteries since the compartment is long. Lastly, I need to put some rubber weather seal on the dinette seat lid and the lid in the bottom of the closet. They may not be 100% airtight, but with the vents... I do not think any gasses will have the chance to accumulate.


Now that I do not have SLA batteries.. I think this is needed for safety.




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[featherliteCT1]

Thanks for explaining how your battery vent system will work .... and that propane tank cover looks great!

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Knowing what a smart fella you are, especially with the electrons an such you
most likely have a solid grasp that the hydrogen gas is the worst part of the off-
gas the smell of rotten eggs is like a fart it will pass. Let's ya know it's there,
says howdy and goes on it's harmless way. Now the hydrogen on the other hand,
goes up into the electronics you've got above where your present batteries are.
Here's some reading and a link to some polyprop. containers specifically for use
in RVs, or you could enclose your area yourself. In the reading drop down to item
#5 and you'll see a vent hose that would connect to the through wall vent you already
have. Doesn't show the flange to connect to the top of the battery box, but I found a link.
Here's the reading;
https://rvshare.com/blog/6-things-need- ... ttery-box/

Here's the link to the boxes;
https://allbatterysalesandservice.com/c ... ries-gcq-g

and here's the link for the vent assembly you can get the connector hose at Home Depot
or Lowes or even a pool (swim type), supply place, probably the best place.
https://www.campingworld.com/battery-box-vent

Just tryin' to be helpful...

hank

[flboy]

Thanks Hank! I appreciate the links!