Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

PigTrail, Howdy;

Good to see you had very little difficulty re sealing the window. You shouldn't
need to add any other sealants there are still Mobile homes from the 70's with
butyl tape keeping their windows tight with nothing else helping it.

hank

I'm still working out my electrical plan, but I know I would like the option to run the ARB fridge off the trailer batteries when stopped or off the truck while in transit.

Can I use a battery switch like the one pictured below to accomplish this? Battery 1 would be my battery bank and battery 2 would be the hot lead from the trailer 7-pin trailer connector?




I found these wiring diagrams for most trailer and vehicle connectors and thought others might find them useful.






The back of my tundra and my trailer has the 7 pin rv connector, middle center in photos above. Would the red be the hot lead I need for the refrigerator?...or I could I use the running lights + wire for the fridge hot since I almost always run with my headlights on and then I wouldn't have to hack up the connector to find this auxillary + wire?

Has anyone else run this setup? How did you wire it?

PigTrail, Howdy;

Yes the Aux. (red), is the hot lead from the tow vehicle. However, the size (gauge),
of the wire needs to be seriously taken into consideration. That's all I can say as
the rest belongs in the hands of some of the more electrically inclined members to
help you. Good luck.

hank

Put ya in a relay that uses a "keyed" circuit from ignition switch(at fuse box) to trigger relay. Then take 12v either directly from battery or a hot (pos) terminal post under the hood. Inline fuse as close to power source as possible. At least 10g, 8 or 6 better. then to relay contact terminals, then to 7 wire truck side connector. Same gauge from 7 wire trailer side connector to trailer battery. Then wire fridge in to DC fuse box. You can use 10g for this run.
When truck ignition switch is on the relay is triggered (closed) and 12v is sent to charge trailer battery. When key is off fridge runs off trailer battery only, and trailer can't draw from truck battery. Helps prevent dead truck battery if you don't disconnect 7 wire. Also put in a heavy ground wire (same gauge) bolted directly to truck frame near 7 wire connector. Same gauge from trailer side 7 wire to trailer battery (neg).
If you plan reverse lights on trailer a relay or diodes will prevent back feeding that can sometimes happen through reverse light switch circuit. I use my ramp lights as back up lights and only feed those lights from trailer battery. The relay is triggered by the truck reverse lights. Small (14g) wire from a truck reverse light to 7 wire truck side. Same gauge from 7 wire trailer side to relay trigger. (May want a fuse inline) The other side of trigger to ground or neg terminal post of trailer. Then pos. from ramp light fuse to relay contact terminals then to ramp lights.
I just re read this and I think it makes sense, but it is late. Let me know if you need help or a drawing.

McDave

Wow! Thanks for the detailed post.


Wall insulation is nearly complete. Now to do the roof and adhere some 2" foam-board to the bottom.

Are you gluing the 2" foam on underneath the trailer directly? I need to insulate my CTC underneath so I am curios what you'd use for Glue to make sure it stays there with moisture and etc..

Living in Florida, it is not a high priority, but since cold air sinks... I think it will help with the AC as well.

Post some pics when done. That is a "improvement" project I have planned before next summer.

If you haven't seen this post on floor insulation, check it out - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=1154695#p1154695 That user apparently just glued insulation to the bottom and had 9 years and 25K under the trailer's belt.

Another example that's leading me to glue foam-board (pink stuff) to bottom is Padilen's post

"I insulated my CTC with rigid foam between the frame members. I used 1" for spacers the 2" cut tight and caulked around seams. I then painted it with UGL waterproof paint. I travel on dirt roads and my underside is clean. I'm planing on another layer to go over my frame members and repaint. This insulation is for a clean look and sound deadening. Pest and OCD control."

I'll post up picks once I get mine in. I plan to just adhere 2" foam board (pink) to the bottom.

I used both glue and screws with fender washers on mine. I have also seen 1x2 strips screwed in. I think that the screws help the glue to adhere well, and they give some added insurance. I did have to be careful in choosing the correct length screw and not compressing the foam too far or the screws would come through the flooring.




My insulation looks different because I covered it with the teardrop "foamie" technique of glue, canvas, and paint for protection. I don't think it needs that.

Just looking at those two pictures of the foam flooring insulation, my first thought was the potential aerodynamic advantage that could be obtained here. I don't know what the air looks like under the Tow Vehicle and when it enters the trailer undercarriage, but that looks much smoother and should go through the air much easier. Added to the insulation benefits it seems like a very worthwhile upgrade.

McDave

The funny thing about insulating and repairing leaky factory windows is that you spend a lot of time and $ on the project if you're doing it right. However, when completed it feels like you're right back where you started...with bare walls!! So it goes.

Popped out the rear passenger side window over the weekend and added Butyl tape around the margins. It wasn't leaking, but judging by the crackly substance that used to be poorly applied window caulk, it soon would be.




Thermal bypass due to the metal wall studs is a real issue. I plan to layer another 1" sheet of Pink Foam board over the exposed walls once cabinets are built, etc. This will be covered with 0.090" white Luan for a finished look.


The next task was to augment the 61"x81" bed frame to span the entire trailer width. I stood in the trailer and drew on the walls for a good half hour before arriving at the measurements...69" x 93 & 1/16". With this size frame we can lay a queen mattress east-west across the trailer and still have 4" on the front and back of the mattress for placing a foot while making the bed, etc.

Previous bed frame liberated from its Murphy Bed enclosure.




Last year I built a fold-up bench for the trailer. Rather than buy more metal I "recycled" most of it into the bed-frame.




Some pieces didn't make it into the new build...




Comments, thoughts, and suggestions before I start joining metal? :-)

Pig Trail we are also doing a 8X18 build at this time. We plan to use the truck to recharge our batteries, 4 trojan 105's. After doing a bit of research we are going to use a battery to battery charger. We will run a 6 gauge wire from the truck battery to rear of truck, install a 50 amp quick coupler( used by jeep guys to hook up winches) then run a 6 gauge wire from the rear of trailer where battery charger is going to be located, to the tongue and install the other half of the 50 amp quick coupler. We also have a 1000 watt honda for charging batteries also. Seems newer alternators will quit charging when the truck battery is charged unless you have a battery to battery charger. You can install another alternator. If you find a better way of charging the batteries let me know. We already have a regular charger in our boat that we will install also if we need it.
ris

After doing a bit of research we are going to use a battery to battery charger.

Ris, thanks for the reply and detailed description of your plans. Can you explain more about the battery to battery charger ?

I plan to have a Marinco 15A plug that I can connect to a wall outlet when at a campground, friends house, or other power-source. I also plan carry along a Honda 2000w generator when in the back-country for a week or more.

Which battery to battery charger did you choose?

Spent some time with the welder today and am happy to report that the bed-frame is extended to the fine dimensions of 93" & 1/16 x 69".

Most welds look like this...some look not so good. I'm still learning. :-)




The completed bed-frame ready to have a few rough spots ground-down.




It fits! Here's the frame resting on the fenders. It'll be raised to 48" off the floor and affixed to the walls.

Had my lovely wife help lift the bed-frame to its final height and installed brackets into 8 of the metal wall studs.




Now I'll measure for a few additional gussets and weld those in before final installation. The bed will also be supported along the front leading edge by 3/4 plywood that goes all the way from the edge of the mattress down to the floor. It will be screwed into both walls, the floor, and the bed-frame. The rear-upper will have a thinner "divider" that seperates the bed & living area from the "garage" out back.

I'm pretty happy with the preliminary feel of the bed height. I'm 6'1", but can easily bend over and walk under the frame. Getting the pass-through door sized correctly will be key to a good feel of going between the two. Any guidance?

I made a pocket door to separate garage from galley. There is not a lot of room for swinging doors inside a 6x12. I repurposed a 125 yr old door from the "Ice Room" of my house. It was just the perfect size 36" wide. And I love the look of the door. The pocket door hardware was about 60.00 if I recall. Norgewizard is also using sliders, He went with the barn door slider/rollers that are all the rage now. same principal really.
Here is the door I used.


This is the pocket door hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B ... UTF8&psc=1

McDave

These are the barn door slider hardware I mentioned.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR18GEK/re ... il_3?psc=1