Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Grummy wrote:And, the worst part is, I have no idea if they actually folded the wall down over the side walls before they screwed on their trim mouldings and gooped it full of sealant. Oh well, not everything can be perfect.

I bet 50 bucks its not folded over. Folding or hand seaming has to be done by hand, and why spend time on something hidden?

I did find a trailer builder who does fold his flat roof over the side walls.. Jensen trailers in humboldt Iowa, but they build steel not aluminum. Walter's the guy you want to talk to.

Check out what I looked at today.
Just happened to have a 5x10 .
Had some things I liked, and a few I didn't.

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Overall I liked the trailer except one thing.
I asked about a "no lift" axle and he said he couldn't do that. This unit had a 4" drop axle but with a "spring under" leafspring set.
That could be swapped if needed to provide higher ride height but he dosent do that either.

He did say if I needed to remove the walls, I can order it (unglued) to the braces. That's good.

My quote with things I wanted .
Roof vent
Rear double barn doors
Stabilizer jacks
Register/plates
$ 3,600

However....... the day before I did an online quote.
Same business different location.
Roof vent
Rear double barn doors
Electric brakes
$2,777

hmmm lots to think about.



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Gummy, good comments!

I bought a Legend Deluxe V Nose 7X14, in too deep now...

Perhaps the best advice is to realize we may decide to make a better second version.

I went too big and now want a smaller one.

But it was very good for moving to a new location.

I can strip all my big dollar additions and use them in a smaller box, or not...

rebar wrote:I bet 50 bucks its not folded over. Folding or hand seaming has to be done by hand, and why spend time on something hidden?

I'm with you.... I'd say it is not folded over because we all know how EASY it is for them to run a trim router around the top to cut off the material FLUSH compared to leaving a small foldover amount. Sure, they could use a jigged bit that would allow that, but I bet the $50 they ain't smart enough or care enough. Speed/Time is money in their biz.

It wouldn't need to be much material, and it would be real easy to roll over with a simple heavy steel seam roller as the material is not very thick... but whatever.

I know I will not be prying open their current urethane gooped up seals to look until and if I have any troubles.

Modstock wrote: hmmm lots to think about.

Yep, you just got to be shopping and hunting for the deal. I found that a company 50 miles away from me had purchased 8-10 trailers in one lump, supposedly getting one bang up deal. As such, he could corner the market and flip them quickly for less than the onesy twosey stock companies.

I found my 6x12 all aluminum for $3850 just by routinely scouring craigslist and facebook marketplaces. That was $600- $800 cheaper than anyone else in my area, and kind of sealed the deal as to what I was committed to using after much internal debate on sizes, weight issues and brand.

Yeah, I wouldn't mind a longer drive maybe even up to Idaho to get a better deal , but I do like the 2nd bid.

Next thing on the list is a test tow with a 5x10 , just to get a feel for it.
I'd hate to need a new tow rig after this. Probably need to fix the exhaust on my rig, it may be getting plugged up. Seems down on power.

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NotJammer wrote: I bought a Legend Deluxe V Nose 7X14, in too deep now...

Perhaps the best advice is to realize we may decide to make a better second version.

I went too big and now want a smaller one.

Lucky for me, I've done many "conversions" on all sorts of wheeled vehicles. This time around, I dug deep to find what I really NEEDED... couldn't ever afford what I wanted ! I found I needed more than a teardrop, just enough headroom to walk from one end to the other, and EXPANSION abilities beyond 6x12 via enclosed awning and rear deck enclosure. BIG ENOUGH !!! (note though that I am not trying to LIVE in it).

My tow vehicle had a lot to do with it. Having years and years of 6-10 mpg adventures, I figured I could get out farther if I could decrease that cost a bit. So, tow vehicle was going to be a 2016 Chrysler Town and Country. 28-30 mpg highway by itself, capable of a claimed 3600lb towing. My trailer teeters right now at the 2900lb mark and frankly, it took some getting used to the Chrysler's engine and towing claims. Sure, they claim the 3600lb... and what ? up to 7500lb on their pickups with that same peanut 3.6L. But you sure as well better get used to much higher RPM's than us old guys have ever cared to run at.

When running on flats, 70mph is not an issue (other than the rest of the world trying to go 85 around you), but the engine will be turning 3800 RPM. Worried the daylights out of me on the first run. Asked the dealer about it... they same HAMMER DOWN !! It what is is made for and can easily do it all day and all night. The great thing is, my last two 6 hour runs averaged right around 15 mpg. I am very happy.

Never been a Chrysler guy, but it is what I have and likely will have for some time. No more full size anythings, no commercial trucks or busses..... 'cuz " I've done got old - can't do the things I used to do" - Buddy Guy .

SO, THAT SAID... YES !!!! New comers would do well to think LONG AND HARD about what they really need.

Today I did a test tow with a 5x8.
The 10 ft was in the showroom.

I was actually surprised how it towed.
Not bouncy and a lot smoother during bridges and bumps.

Getting more exiting.

Had to get a new 2" ball with a 2" drop but after the tow I took it back and got a 3.5 " drop.

Asked about the axle again and he said that's what comes with.
I wouldn't mind if it was just an inch or two higher .


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This is what I drew out on the floor , testing where stuff goes, measurements, ect.
I do need to move everything in 1.5"
Cause of the walls but I have a game plan now.


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The 5x10 axle will be further back by a foot or so and will help take some of the angle out as well.

McDave

That's what I was hoping for.

One thing I didn't think of is ;;;;;; Will it fit in the garage ?
Yes and no.
It'll fit in my other garage with 8ft door but not my attached garage (7ft).
The silver unit I looked at was at 90"
(7ft - 6").

So im gonna have to make a sacrifice with off-roadness and keep the normal axle under it.
My teardrop clearance underneath is 17".
Cargo clearance ;;;; 13 - 1/4"
I'll be giving up a few inches but I really don't go on any bad dirt roads where I need that kind of clearance.
Compromises.

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McDave wrote:The 5x10 axle will be further back by a foot or so and will help take some of the angle out as well.

McDave

I did measure from the center of the axle and to the rear of the trailer, 45".
That's only 2 inches longer than my 4x8 teardrop trailer.
Should level out nicely.

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Here's another idea I had kicking around.
Since im going double barn doors in the rear. One wont be used nearly as much as the other.
I'd either like to mount the spare tire there OR a bike rack for 2 bikes.
Have any of you done this and how much weight do you think it can handle ?

The entry door may get a window, haven't decided yet. Also the spare may go up front depending on weight distribution.



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Hey Modstock,
I do not have the barn doors but did mount my spare to the ramp door of my trailer. I needed to do some repairs and insulate the ramp before installing the diamond tread flooring, so I took the opportunity to mount the spare out there. I had to do some fab work to the frame of the ramp to stiffen it up and accommodate the mount that I used.
Here is a pic of the spare mounted...

This is the type of mount I used. It required some fab work but it works well...

This is the type of mount I would recommend for the barn door style...
It is called a wall mount. Here is a link... https://nhtrailers.com/product/tire-wall-mount/
This is a handy tool to help you with the weight and balance planning of your trailer. Just insert your numbers and the program will do the math for you.
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculato ... alance.htm

Good Luck!

McDave