Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Back from camping near Sanibel/Fort Myers FL and have decided that AC is a must.

Rooftop ac is going to be $1000+.
We can get a small window shaker for $100+. Our friend says it's best to get the shaker because if it goes out, big deal- easy and affordable to replace.

Hubby and I both agree we don't want to cut a hole and have this thing sticking out and unsightly.

Any suggestions?

sharkbait8574 wrote:Back from camping near Sanibel/Fort Myers FL and have decided that AC is a must.

Rooftop ac is going to be $1000+.
We can get a small window shaker for $100+. Our friend says it's best to get the shaker because if it goes out, big deal- easy and affordable to replace.

Hubby and I both agree we don't want to cut a hole and have this thing sticking out and unsightly.

Any suggestions?

There are many ways to build it in a cabinet or etc.. Just look around on this site. Been discussed many times. Pros and Cons to to various ways. but I'd agree that for a 6X12 a 5,000 or 6,000 BTU is the right size if you have insulated your trailer.

I have a 6 x12 and a rooftop A/C. Love it! I opened the door yesterday and the temp inside was 104f, 107f outside. Turned on the A/C and 10 mins. later temp was down to 71f and just dry as a bone in there. Is it overkill? Probably, I have never needed to use the high cool setting and once she is cooled down the compressor cycles on and off as needed. But I'd rather have plenty as opposed to not enough. Also, those window shakers are not designed to travel. Yes they are cheap, and that is good because you will be replacing them. Rooftops have been around a long time and they are designed to travel, that's why they are on the roof. You don't have to give up valuable real estate to the a/c and it is placed where it can do the most good, right above yer head. We all know that heat rises and cold falls so why not treat the hottest air first and the cold air will handle itself. There are no drain issues like a window air and nothing sticking out the side. Plus you can get a heat option as well. Very handy to have if you get caught in a storm or at night in the high country. I didn't even have to cut a hole in the roof, the a/c is made to fit the 14 x 14 vent opening already present. You will have to put in a frame to reinforce the roof but that was simple.
I have never regretted choosing the rooftop air.

McDave

flboy wrote:

sharkbait8574 wrote:Back from camping near Sanibel/Fort Myers FL and have decided that AC is a must.

Rooftop ac is going to be $1000+.
We can get a small window shaker for $100+. Our friend says it's best to get the shaker because if it goes out, big deal- easy and affordable to replace.

Hubby and I both agree we don't want to cut a hole and have this thing sticking out and unsightly.

Any suggestions?

There are many ways to build it in a cabinet or etc.. Just look around on this site. Been discussed many times. Pros and Cons to to various ways. but I'd agree that for a 6X12 a 5,000 or 6,000 BTU is the right size if you have insulated your trailer.

Thanks for the reply, @flboy

We are insulated. We doubled up in the walls and ceiling totaling 1.5 inches. I plan to get photos later. It is hard to work out there with "feels like temps" in the 100s

McDave wrote:I have a 6 x12 and a rooftop A/C. Love it! I opened the door yesterday and the temp inside was 104f, 107f outside. Turned on the A/C and 10 mins. later temp was down to 71f and just dry as a bone in there. Is it overkill? Probably, I have never needed to use the high cool setting and once she is cooled down the compressor cycles on and off as needed. But I'd rather have plenty as opposed to not enough. Also, those window shakers are not designed to travel. Yes they are cheap, and that is good because you will be replacing them. Rooftops have been around a long time and they are designed to travel, that's why they are on the roof. You don't have to give up valuable real estate to the a/c and it is placed where it can do the most good, right above yer head. We all know that heat rises and cold falls so why not treat the hottest air first and the cold air will handle itself. There are no drain issues like a window air and nothing sticking out the side. Plus you can get a heat option as well. Very handy to have if you get caught in a storm or at night in the high country. I didn't even have to cut a hole in the roof, the a/c is made to fit the 14 x 14 vent opening already present. You will have to put in a frame to reinforce the roof but that was simple.
I have never regretted choosing the rooftop air.

McDave

McDave - you make some valid points and that is all things we have considered. Gosh, this is not easy for an indecisive girl

We went back and forth on our 6x12 conversion on what to do with the A/C and with space being a premium and wanting to keep a clean look we went with a rooftop unit. It is definitely worth the cost to avoid a lot of headache. We went with the Coleman Mach 8 cub which is a 9200 BTU unit so we could easily run it on a 2000 watt generator if need be but we avoid camping in hot places unless there is power to run it. We also have a MaxxAir fan on the roof and it does a great job pulling cool air in through the windows and venting the hot air out the top.

PrecisionLook612,

Just to clarify, are you saying that you have actually used your generator to run your Coleman AC? If so, what is the make and model of your generator?

Thanks!

featherliteCT1 wrote:PrecisionLook612,

Just to clarify, are you saying that you have actually used your generator to run your Coleman AC? If so, what is the make and model of your generator?

Thanks!

We haven’t yet, I have only run the A/C off of shore power. Checking it with a Kill-a-watt though it only pulls 1100-1200 watts running. My plan is to run it off of our 2000 watt Honda Inverter generator.

Willing to bet it won't start with Honda 2000 if the running watts is 1100W. Inrush will trip inverter as it is easily 2x the running watts.

The 8000 BTU window unit I have runs at about 650w so that sounds high? It also starts with a 2000W Generator running in ECO mode.

If the Honda won't start it, you could buy a soft start kit for about $300 that will allow it to start. I have seen those kits allow folks to run 12,500 BTU units with Honda, but by then you have well over $1,000 into the AC and are running the Honda full up to keep up. Also adds more complex circuitry that will eventually fail.. Will it work.. yes..

If you get a rooftop, make it simple and get a 3500W Generator. Then you would be able to run other stuff too while AC is on.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Any thoughts on building these storage boxes on the tongue of the trailer (see attachment)? We have no welding skills

Here's a better look at the frame neceasary

Looking good.

sharkbait8574 wrote:Back from camping near Sanibel/Fort Myers FL and have decided that AC is a must.

Home to me. I'm near the (inland) eastern edge of Lee County.
Where did you camp while you were here?

Karebru wrote:Looking good.

sharkbait8574 wrote:Back from camping near Sanibel/Fort Myers FL and have decided that AC is a must.

Home to me. I'm near the (inland) eastern edge of Lee County.
Where did you camp while you were here?

We camped at Koreshan. This was our first time in the area.

Well, I hope you enjoyed our area, in spite of the summer heat.

Karebru wrote:Well, I hope you enjoyed our area, in spite of the summer heat.

We live in Polk County so we're used to the heat. Although being couped up (COVID) made the heat a little less bearable. We'd love to visit the area again