14*7 V-Nose Conversion

[flboy]

I believe it is a good exhaust fan. It really is good for when I use the stove or etc. Heat builds up quick at the roof line. Also, at night, when it is cooler outside, it keeps the air moving. I think it works well for what it is... a good exhaust fan and to keep some air moving. It is a lot less expensive that an RV fan with a similar CFM specs... and it is a high reliability fan as they use these on PC and Servers. Also, very low current drain.

[MTPockets]

Hello,

First off, let me say; Nice job on the conversion!

I've been lurking here for awhile. I'm close to purchasing my own trailer to convert and have a couple of questions about your side door.
1. Did you order the trailer with the window in the side door, or did you put that in yourself?

2. I notice the side door has both a bar latch and an RV style latch, did you order the trailer with both style latches, or did you add the RV style latch?

I've seen a lot of trailers local that have the bar latch, and I'm wondering if I want to go through the trouble of installing an RV style latch.

Thanks!

[Prem]

Cindy (with the excellent eye of a structural engineer) wrote:

I think that I would weld a bar across the ac opening and weld the center bar to it instead of the wood pieces. If at any time anyone steps on the area of that cut off rib, it will break loose and go through the outer skin.

True that.

[flboy]

Hello,

First off, let me say; Nice job on the conversion!

I've been lurking here for awhile. I'm close to purchasing my own trailer to convert and have a couple of questions about your side door.
1. Did you order the trailer with the window in the side door, or did you put that in yourself?

2. I notice the side door has both a bar latch and an RV style latch, did you order the trailer with both style latches, or did you add the RV style latch?

I've seen a lot of trailers local that have the bar latch, and I'm wondering if I want to go through the trouble of installing an RV style latch.

Thanks!

Thanks... I put the window in myself. I got it off E-bay very cheap. I also put the RV latch on. I keep the bar with a lock on it when I am inside so I cannot be latched in, but it still works. I could take it off... but there would be mounting holes, so I didn't. You really need a door latch to be able to shut and latch the door from the inside... else it does not matter.

Good luck with your build! I enjoyed the conversion.

[flboy]

:scratchthinking:



Cindy (with the excellent eye of a structural engineer) wrote:

I think that I would weld a bar across the ac opening and weld the center bar to it instead of the wood pieces. If at any time anyone steps on the area of that cut off rib, it will break loose and go through the outer skin.

True that.

I didn't have the means to weld it at the time... I did test it though for that purpose thinking the same. With the L brackets I screwed on to hold it in two places and the fact that it is covered with 3/4 inch plywood to distribute weight... it is strong enough for its intended use. I can jump on it and it does not flex at all. I can run my motorcycle over it and no problem. I agree however, in an ideal world, it should have been welded.

I sure like the air in the back door however. I am thrilled with the AC install and how easy it is to deploy and takes up no room inside. It works so much better than the previous setup I had with the portable AC and the vent hoses.

[MTPockets]

Hello,

First off, let me say; Nice job on the conversion!

I've been lurking here for awhile. I'm close to purchasing my own trailer to convert and have a couple of questions about your side door.
1. Did you order the trailer with the window in the side door, or did you put that in yourself?

2. I notice the side door has both a bar latch and an RV style latch, did you order the trailer with both style latches, or did you add the RV style latch?

I've seen a lot of trailers local that have the bar latch, and I'm wondering if I want to go through the trouble of installing an RV style latch.

Thanks!

Thanks... I put the window in myself. I got it off E-bay very cheap. I also put the RV latch on. I keep the bar with a lock on it when I am inside so I cannot be latched in, but it still works. I could take it off... but there would be mounting holes, so I didn't. You really need a door latch to be able to shut and latch the door from the inside... else it does not matter.

Good luck with your build! I enjoyed the conversion.

Thanks for your reply about the door latch. I got lucky and found a trailer for sale that already had an RV style latch, so I bought it yesterday. I will need to start my own build thread now! I just need to work up the courage to cut holes in the side for windows

[lrrowe]

Me too!
My first cut for a power plug is in the wrong spot. I have had the big window cut outlined for weeks now and just cannot get myself to make the "plunge".

[flboy]

Yes... definitely need to measure twice and only cut once when making holes in the camper. Certainly understand. :-)

[flboy]

It has been a while since I posted anything on this build. Really , I am done... but it is always fun to add new things and post. :-)

Going camping in two weeks and I always like to make a few improvements before I go. I added a DC Volatage meter and Power plug/USB Charger. It is a sign of the times... need to charge smartphone and etc. while camping. The Voltmeter monitors my DC/Solar Charging system.

I really needed a vent cover for Florida. With the rain we get in the summer, this will help. Also, I like the idea of keeping the vent open while driving.

I'll post some pics of the vent cover when I install it.

[flboy]

I installed the top vent cover today. These go on really easy. Took about 20 minutes to install. I think it looks good and will certainly be nice to be able to keep the vent open regardless of rain or going down the road.

View from Top



Side View

[flboy]

I get so excited about going camping. As fellow campers, I am sure you can relate. If you ride dirtbikes... double ditto.

I am headed out directly after work Tuesday PM and will be camping/dirt-bike riding for 3 days. I am all loaded up. I just need to throw some food in the fridge and toss in my gear bag. I'll hook up Monday night and tow to work Tuesday. I'll be shaking down my Honda Generator this week. It is Florida and Summer. It will be 90+ degrees in the daytime and 75-80 degrees at night. I built an auxiliary 5 gallon tank for my generator so I can run for 24 hrs full out without refueling. I expect the 5 gallons to last for three days since I will be out riding in the day and only running the AC about 8 hours a day. The solar cells will keep the batteries up for lighting and the fridge. I'll post some pics of my auxiliary tank. It cost me a total of $30 to make. It should work if i got the seals on the fittings correct.

[flboy]

I Had a great time camping for 3 days. A few pics of the camper in use: I'll throw up a few pics of the Honda Generator and the auxiliary tank I made for ~$30.00. I ran the Generator from about 10PM until 8AM each day so I had A/C while inside and sleeping. Didn't need to in the daytime because I was out riding or enjoying the outdoors. In any case, the generator only used about 4 gallons of fuel to keep the AC running for 3 days. The Solar cells and batteries ran everything else (Fridge, TV, Lights, etc.)

[flboy]

This is the auxiliary 5 gallon gas tank I built for the Honda Generator. The auxiliary tank has a tube connected to the other side that draws from the bottom of the tank. See diagram. You can get the parts at Ace hardware for about $9.00. I bought an extra gas cap from Ebay for the Generator ($10.00) and put a male adapter on it. Just tap the hole and thread it on. To use it, just connect up the hose and replace the existing cap. I had the extra gas tank, but you can pick up a 3 to 4 gallon tank for <$10.00 at Wal-Mart.

The spring you see I wound from some wire.... but it keeps the hose from kinking. You could get a 90 degree fitting to avoid that. If I build another, that is how I will do it. I did have a problem with the hose wanting to kink. I had the fuel filter. It is not mandatory, but a good idea.

[funengineer]

Flboy
Can you describe how the new gas cap and hoses work? I'm not following your description very well. I'd like to add more fuel capacity and like your modification of a regular tank
Thanks.

[flboy]

Flboy
Can you describe how the new gas cap and hoses work? I'm not following your description very well. I'd like to add more fuel capacity and like your modification of a regular tank
Thanks.

The new Gas Cap is a vented gas cap that is made for the Honda Generator. I remove the vent Hardware (just a cotter pin removal to disassemble), then I tap a hole to screw in the hose adapter.

For the regular gas tank, the purpose of the male and female adapters is just to get a hose to the bottom of the tank so gas can be drawn with no air getting into the line. The hardware just couples the hose through the wall of the tank.

The exterior gas hose just connects the two tanks. The Honda Generator will draw gas through the line as it uses gas. A gas tank normally creates a vacuum as fuel is consumed and must be vented else the gas stops flowing. This setup just allows the vacuum created in the Generator tank to pull gas from the bottom of the auxiliary tank which vents through its own vent. The Honda is creating a syphon action.

The idea is to get the hose connected to the top of the Honda via the modified cap to the bottom of the auxiliary tank. You could just drill a hole in the tank cap that is just barely big enough for the hose to fit and push the hose to the bottom of the tank. That would work without any hardware for the auxiliary tank. You just need to be able to seal the gas tank when the hose is removed.

I hope this helps.