7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[McDave]

Man, you are getting really good at cuttin' them holes in that trailer. I just spent most of the day trying to locate where I need to put all the holes. I measured a lot more than twice, and came out more confused and unsure than when I started! I've got marks and tape and drawings all over the place. I know it's not rocket surgery, (I used to be a rocket surgeon) but I still want to do it right the first time. I think I'll sleep on it and try to make sense of it all tomorrow before I start to cutting.
Have you installed your black tank and vent? All the components that need to work together aren't wantin' to play nice for me just yet. I 'm sure I'll get it done, but I won't have much hair left to pull out when It's over. Again lots of holes to cut in floor, tank, and roof.
Anyways, enjoy your time off from trailer work with your family. Looks like you've got a real nice life going for yourself.
Good on ya'.

McDave

P.S. Those dimmer controls took the slow boat from China when I ordered them, so patience is required. They really do seem to work well so far, but I also ordered a half dozen just in case.

[flboy]

McDave. Thanks . I did order 4 of the controls. It is beyond me how they can sell those so cheap. I'll see how they work.

I do not have the Black tank vented yet, but I know where the pipe will go. That was the first thing I needed to figure out was the blackwater tank and toilet placement. The pipe will go up the wall in the corner of the bathroom behind the toilet. If it looks tacky by itself, I will build a casing for it to match the wall. There aren't to many options. I'll vent the gray water under the sink near the trap. It should not have odors.. if it does, I'll run it over to connect with the blackwater vent pipve in the corner. They are real close in terms of proximity. I'll be doing all that work when I take a few days off at the end of May. I'll post up some pics. Have a great Monday.

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[McDave]

Just one more thing, The batteries are not included for the remotes, so brace yourself 'cause they are more spendy than the dimmers.

McDave

[flboy]

Just one more thing, The batteries are not included for the remotes, so brace yourself 'cause they are more spendy than the dimmers.

McDave

Figures! Not surprised. It is better that way. They'd put cheap batteries in that would leak and ruin the remote anyhow.

[flboy]

This is what I got done tonight after work. The water heater I restored from the donor camper was only propane. For $60 ON eBay , I bought a kit that came with a 600W element (inserts into the drain plug), the thermostat, the over overt temp (OT) shut off sensor, and all needed wiring. The sensor is suppose to mount on a flat surface, but the tank is rounded. I found a way to break the OT sensor and thermostat into two pieces by removing a bus bar, creating a longer jumper wire, and separating two metal tabs locking them together. The two pieces were short enough to make good contact with the thermal transducers in both individual pieces. Wiring is all set now for final hookup when I connect water and propane.

I have the 1 inch Styrofoam which I am building a box to surround the heater with and then I will blow in expanding foam. This will be well insulated. I'll takes some pics of that when done. I just need to tape up all the sides, makes some "keep out" covers for the thermostat and OT sensor, and then get a can of expanding foam.

I put the electric element in so I can save propane when I am connected to shore power. Also a backup if I run out of propane. It will run off the inverter or generator in that case.

[McDave]

Dual Fuel H2o heater! Department of Redundancy Department approved.
Davey Likey!

McDave

[flboy]

Dual Fuel H2o heater! Department of Redundancy Department approved.
Davey Likey!

McDave

Yes... the older I get, the more I appreciate the comforts in life like a nice hot shower. I can rough it with the best of them if I have to, but why rough it when you don't have to! :-)

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[lrrowe]

Don, I am putting you in the same category as I put myself. I lean towards doing things which can be considered redundant or overkill also. I guess it is just the creator or tinkerer in me. That is why I will never be a minimalist. I looked at your propane/AC idea and wondered how I can do it, but so far I do not know how without pulling the sacrificial anode rod out each time...something I do not want to do.

[McDave]

@ Bob (lrrowe),
These kits come with the anode. I haven't used one so I cant recommend. But, it looks right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Conver ... 04&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Conver ... HW&vxp=mtr
I think the anode may be part of the adapters/reducers.
This could also be a boon to your radiant heat system as well, if you have AC power available.
McDave

[flboy]

That kit is similar to the one I got made by Camco called "Hybrid Heat" which you can also find on eBay. I don't know how well they work yet... but I'll know in about a month by which time I should be far enough along on the CTC coversion to test the major systems out.

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[lrrowe]

Thanks McDave and Don. Nice finds.
I will follow them and your results Don to see about my interest. One thing they would do for me is to provide winter heat from my home AC while sitting in the yard. Could be an alternative to winterizing it and then be ready for a last minute idea to go cold weather camping.

Edit: And a "for later" review process, I wonder how practical running the 120V (about 400 Watts) through an inverter running off of a solar panel/battery bank system. It may not be practical, but worth my reviewing.

[McDave]

Thanks McDave and Don. Nice finds.
I will follow them and your results Don to see about my interest. One thing they would do for me is to provide winter heat from my home AC while sitting in the yard. Could be an alternative to winterizing it and then be ready for a last minute idea to go cold weather camping.

Edit: And a "for later" review process, I wonder how practical running the 120V (about 400 Watts) through an inverter running off of a solar panel/battery bank system. It may not be practical, but worth my reviewing.

Hmmm, well we all know electricity is the most inefficient way to produce heat,(except as a byproduct, see OTTCT) but maybe a combo of LP,12v inverted, and 120ac, generated or supplied could be the answer? LP or inverter during quiet or low demand times, genny to heat and recharge and supplemental solar as backup or while in transit? More options = more capability. (If done correctly) 3 half a**** systems do not equal 1 good system. Just sayin'

McDave

[flboy]

I got the AC Exhaust Vent in tonight. I still have to bolt, brace and seal it in. It started to rain so I had to knock it off for tonight. The intake vent will be on the roof right up top, then I build the AC into a cabinet on the inside at the same hieght as the vent. I Almost have all the outside cutting done and will be able to move inside and start the insulation and wiring! I want to get the AC in first so it will be cool in there while I am working!

[flboy]

Following is the inside of the AC Vent. I have it all bolted in, braced, and sealed. I still have to install the roof intake vent and then figure out how I want to build the Air conditioner shelf and get it all to seal up well to isolate the intake and and output of the condenser fan when the window unit is slid into place on the shelf. I have a few ideas, but I never have done this before, so wish me luck!

[flboy]

I ordered a 6000BTU Air Conditioner tonight. Hopefully will get that installed in the next few weeks so I'll be able to work inside the trailer in cool air. The fun will be starting on the inside in a few weeks. 6000 BTU should cool 250sq ft well and 18*7 Vnose is slightly less than 140sq ft... albeit not as well insulated as a home should be. I think it will do fine. A 5000 BTU may do it just fine... but there was not really any difference in the price and the size was only a few inches different and only required 100mA less current (4.9A vs 4.8A)

I need the air conditioner on hand in any case to fit the shelf and necessary fittings. I am going to try to make the fittings/seals adjustable so when the AC breaks, I can toss it for a new one which may vary slightly in Length, Width, or Height.