7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Thanks Icon and McDave. I think I will get the vent cap. I have had trouble with the traps drying up and gray water tank smell in the camper while setting. That is a different smell than the black water, but I have now connected the gray water to the black water vent stack. I do periodically pour water in the sinks and shower to fill the traps when I think of it. All the more important now with the black water vent connection


You guys gave me some things to think about. I'll start with the vent cap which seems like a good idea in any case based on reviews.. then work backwards. The odd thing is that I have made no changes since my trip to Georgia two months ago and I didn't have the issue which is why I am thinking I developed a leak. It is possible I had a window cracked open slightly and didn't realize it or etc..

This problem stinks! :-)

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[flboy]

Just ordered a new Atwood 6 gallon LP/electric water heater to install. The replacement tank for mine is almost as much as a whole new unit. In any case, the existing control board, ignitor, thermostats and etc. are all compatible with the new unit, so I will have plenty of spare parts for repairs when that becomes necessary.

It should fit in the existing hole and wire up the same. I will find out soon. I like the hot showers when boondocking. Not an option to go without. ;-)

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[McDave]

Did you post mortem that old tank? I was curious about the cause of the failure (other than just age) and thought you might get a look at the sacrificial anode. Sometimes you can pick up some clues from that. Or was there a fracture at one of the fittings or element that eventually rotted out? Those are glass lined tanks, yes? If you get bored why don't you tear it down and give us a education. Or you go have ice cream, that's fun too.

McDave

[flboy]

Did you post mortem that old tank? I was curious about the cause of the failure (other than just age) and thought you might get a look at the sacrificial anode. Sometimes you can pick up some clues from that. Or was there a fracture at one of the fittings or element that eventually rotted out? Those are glass lined tanks, yes? If you get bored why don't you tear it down and give us a education. Or you go have ice cream, that's fun too.

McDave

Hi McDave. I did not tear it apart yet. I guess I can cut open the tank to see where it failed inside the flame tube.. but water was running out it so there must be a crack or a hole that developed. This is an Atwood LP heater that is way older that 20 years... probably pushing 30 years. I pulled it from an old camper I was getting parts off of (1990 something Elkhorn truck camper). I refurbished it and the aluminum tank looked good from the outside. I think it is Suburban that uses steel tanks and glass lines them. NOt sure if Atwood lines the inside of the aluminum tanks.

I am willing to bet it just corroded out inside the flame tube. It had nasty water and etc. in it when I first got it... Sometimes free is not the best deal. I put some work into it and about $50.00 in parts. I don't really count the repair I had to do later because of the wasps... that would have happened even to a new water heater and I would have had to fix that too. I also spent about $60.00 (or thereabouts) on an electric conversion kit ... So about $110 in it. I am going to take out that kit... maybe somebody can use it. I'll also save the control circuit, thermostats, Igniter and even the regulator. It is all good but the tank itself.. I am buying an Atwood that has a factory installed electric option... but all the other parts will work as backup if ever needed.

Before :

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After:

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[McDave]

Couple things, It's way past time I asked this question, so here goes. How do I fix my computer so I can see the picture everybody else sees? I get pictures but some are a very small piece blown up so far it's scary. I basically have to zoom out to the troposphere to get the whole picture and then it is short and wide and the text is just a series of binary dots.
Hey, don't judge me. I went to school in the 70's. The only computer we had was made by "Abacas". It was down in the office next to the Ditto machine.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Question 2. I assume the flame tube is the tube I see the burner and ignitor going into. Sort of a horizontal version of domestic Nat Gas/Lp tank where the tube runs through the tank and transfers the heat from the burner to the water and then exhaust spent fuel out the side. So aluminium tube and tank, Huh. Well I suppose that tube has a finite number of flame cycles. Wouldn't rust per se, but corrosion yes. And every flame cycle burns off a small amount of aluminium... still That conversion kit had a anode rod, did the LP originally have a anode rod? What did that look like?

McDave

[flboy]

McDave... Sent a PM


Also, it probably is not your PC or your skills.. the last picture I posted on the Tank refurb was posted as an attachment from a direct file upload. I do not think the Bulletin Board automatically resizes it like it does if you upload to the gallery or from the TapTalk app on the Smart Phone. Do you see the other pictures I post okay... usually?

If they pictures do not get resized, then they transfer at full resolution which is like 12Megapixels on my phone. Theyt would be huge... I edited them and reduced size by 45%.. do they show up better now?

[McDave]

Yes! That is much better. OK so it's out of my control, just have to adapt and overcome. That, I can do.
Thanks Don.

McDave

[flboy]

Here is a random pic from the last trip to ONF. It was my view as I was relaxing in my Zero Gravity chair under the loft watching the news.

I am plannig a few more trips soon. Looking forward to it.

You can tell I am really roughing it now. ;-)



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[flboy]

Going to give it a shot as the first step to the fumes backing up when driving.

Thanks for the tip in any case Iconfabul8!

According to the instructions, this should mount with the existing vent base so no removal of Dicor or etc.. We will see. It should only take a few minutes to install if that is true.



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[Iconfabul8]

I haven't installed mine yet, but I have 1 1/4" pvc sticking out the roof so I just screwed mine to a 2" to 1 1/4" reducer.

[McDave]

Hey Don,
This may help you or confuse you . When all else fails check the instructions.
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/sup ... Manual.pdf

McDave

[flboy]

I was able to install per the directions right over the existing vent base. I did add a PVC coupler in case I ever need to repair or replace. Two screws and it slips off easily.

I can see where the tank will breath better. This cap appears to have an airfoil of sorts creating the lower air pressure and higher airspeed over the vent tube as wind cuts across it from any direction. Additionally, any water that gets inside from rain just goes into the tank with the internal funnel. Nice design.... a$2.00 for the plastic and packaging.... and $18.00 someone's intellectual property. . :-) Dang... wish I'd thought of that!

Old Vent and Base after I removed the Cap.


New Vent that should creat a vacuum going down the road or in wind.




PS... McDave... they sent similar instructions in the package. Thanks in any case.

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[flboy]

Replacement hot water tank arrived today. Not sure when I will have time to install it, but certainly before the next trip. This one is gas and electric from the factory. Looks like a nice unit. The electrical element is 1500w, so it will heat fast on electric also. Will only use the electric option when connected to shore power.

This unit has an heat exchanger hookup on the back you can apparently hook up to the radiator hoses in a motor home to heat the water while driving. That gives me some ideas for a closed loop reverse heat exchanger to add heat to the CTC in the winter??? Maybe too much effort... Probably not enough surface area on the exchanger to be effective.. Anyone done that before??




The heat exchange connections.

[McDave]

As a matter of fact, our buddy Bob (Irrowe) is using his water heater to heat with radiant floor heat and a "unit heater".
I have a boiler and radiant floor heat and unit heaters in my house. I actually made a unit heater from a toyota radiator and a computer fan and it worked great as an experiment, but the plumbing was kludgy and I needed it to fit into a tight area so I bought the right sized unit heater. Unless you are talking sub zero I think it would make plenty of heat for a well insulated trailer. Volume could be an issue as 6ga only has so much heat to give, so may have long flame on cycle due to return temp. of course the ambient delta is the key. Also the risk of freezing exists unless you have a closed loop for heat with anti freeze that cant contaminate fresh domestic H2o. Not impossible, but may be a long way around the problem. Flame to air might be more effective. Can't hurt to brainstorm it though.

McDave

edit Just saw the exchanger. I'm thinking that is to harness engine heat to fresh H2o?

[flboy]

Yes... the exchanger is used to take heat from the motorhome engine to preheat the water so it is hot/warm when you stop. I guess in a motor home they run hoses back from the engine and let the hot radiator fluid pass through. The exchanger does not mix with the fresh water in the tank... it is just connected for thermal conductivity.

It does not look like a large enough heatsink to use for a heater... seems to me it would need more surface area?