7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[brianjonesphoto]

Can you tap into the receiver box to put the relay on the control leads instead? That way instead of a dead winch you have limited so won’t move past the limit but still move the other way with you manually needing the lift/pull to deactivate the limit switch and Re-power the winch.


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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Hard to wrap my head around the Bat soup thing, .....

Me being a non-electric type of human, I was thinking that a piece of angle
attached to bed frame that would contact the limit switch attached to the
wall and as the bed moves upwards shuts off the power. But you can still
lower the frame. Only a suggestion/stray thought that made it into the intergoogle.
Best wishes to you and your extraordinary women.

hank

[McDave]

Ding Ding Ding!!! I think we may have a winner. I like the magnetic switch idea for several reasons. 1st, you already have them. 2nd, you already have them.
B, probably easier to mount and adjust and make "repeatable" or reliable. Wired as a safety switch(es) incorporating a relay to cut main seems easiest. But.... We don't do things because they are easy now do we? No. We only resort to that after we screw up the more complex method and this is our last option to salvage what was a perfectly fine machine to begin with.
I would prefer the monitor switch approach myself but that probably means Comancheizing a brand new winch just to do exploratory surgery to see if it is possible. Of coarse it is possible, you just gotta want it bad enough. I do like the idea of mounting to the bed frame and rails. Are those switches spdt or spst? I guess you can manage that with the relay.
Well, I think I have done enough damage here. Have a great weekend Don. I'll check in with you later.

McDave

[McDave]

I once used a remote/relay set intended for outdoor Christmas lights to thermostatically control a little heater. The key was to open up the remote and wire the thermostat switches to the on and off switches in the remote, bypassing the remote touch switches. Then I mounted the remote to the thermostat on the wall. When the thermostat demanded heat the switch would close and IR remote would send "on" signal to relay box. Then "off" signal to relay when satisfied. Could work here?

McDave

[flboy]

I once used a remote/relay set intended for outdoor Christmas lights to thermostatically control a little heater. The key was to open up the remote and wire the thermostat switches to the on and off switches in the remote, bypassing the remote touch switches. Then I mounted the remote to the thermostat on the wall. When the thermostat demanded heat the switch would close and IR remote would send "on" signal to relay box. Then "off" signal to relay when satisfied. Could work here?

McDave

Very interesting and thanks. I'd need the schematics to see how the remote receiver for the relay box is connected so I could get the correct wires and etc. to breakout. But... I can see that working and like already said... it would mitigate the need for an override. The magnetic alarm switches would also be ideal in this scenario as they are low current and very reliable.


Anyone have schematics for the remote receiver board on a Harbor Freight Badlands 2500 ATV Winch? I do have a 2 channel Digital Oscilloscope, so I probably can figure it out by probing signals and pushing buttons, but the schematics will make it much easier.

[flboy]

Got a little of the finish work done as time permitted this weekend. I still need to paint and put the LED backlighting in, but I built the valances and got it all sanded down. Bed is adjusted and seems to work well.

I'll have a little more time on my hands next weekend to finish up as I am not going camping as planned. Florida is on all but lockdown and I am working from home now. Expecting national lockdown to come.. just seems like that's where we are at.

You all stay safe.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h7ukJJNp5o




You can see how I ran the cable in back. The return for the non-winch side goes under the threshold.







This is the winch side. I have to make the wiring permanent and hook up limit switches, so more work on that too. Also still need to paint that water stain from when ramp door leaked well over a year ago. I guess I will get that next weekend too. Never done with this thing!










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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Keep an eye on those cables. they will stretch over time, that's why the turn-buckles.

hank

[BigDave_185]

What did you use for your guide tracks? Would you mind posting some more photos of those and how you made your cable covers on the ceiling


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[flboy]

Got the LEDs installed tonight. Red, White, Blue and almost everything in between. If you are in the mood for some disco.... they flash too! Whatever the mood!











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[flboy]

What did you use for your guide tracks? Would you mind posting some more photos of those and how you made your cable covers on the ceiling


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Guide tracks are the electrical strut materiel I got from Home Depot. It is called Slotted Standard 1-5/8" x 1-5/8" Strut Channel. The valences are just made out of 1/2 inch Pine board. The sides are 3" wide and back is 5" (already there from before the bed lift cables). To mount, I measured how far of a standoff was needed for the pulleys and ripped a 2*4 to the thickness. I then cut 3" lengths and then mounted three on each side by drilling through and then countersinking another hole to sink a screw and mount the walls. Then I just screwed the 1*3 pine board to the standoffs. I did route the edges of the Pine Board to give it some detail and then sanded, spackled screw holes, and painted well. Here's a picture which I hope helps you.

[flboy]

I believe I got it all adjusted just right. I set the max height at 6'1" since I am 6'. I have to drill the holes in the rails for the pins up top as I don't want to leave the stress on pulleys. This height allows me to walk around without having to duck down and makes it even easier to access the drop down under the bed. Also, I need to leave a little room up top for the pillows and etc. so they do not compress against the ceiling. You can see the holes for pins on the left rail that I use for the lowest bed position depending on which bike is in the back. With toys unloaded, I will just drop it to the bottom at night. So easy to climb in and out now.

I have the left side under the bed for the portable solar panel, but I am thinking about making that another drawer since I can access it now with bed up to ceiling. I will leave the netting and gunsafe where they are under the right side. I use the netting for misc. items. Also need to figure out something for a drop shelf when in bed. I have USB charging at etc. up top there and I keep the phone with me. I had to remove the baskets I had on the wall previously since the bed needs to move past them now.

This job is almost done. So glad I finally made the lift bed work. Will finish the details and limit switch this weekend.








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[flboy]

Going to add the spring loaded barrell bolts to ramp door so I can leave off locks and etc. outside when I am inside and use this for egress in an emergency. I have an emergency window over dinette but I could release the ramp door from in bed and just drop out. I'll put one in each corner. Another benefit is these will also make the ramp door almost impossible to open even if the locks are cut off. And I thought I was done 2 years ago! Lol






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[BigDave_185]

What are you using for guide pins in the up down rails?


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[McDave]

I knew you would get the bed working eventually. You are not the type to just give up on something. Nice work Don. It is sweet to have the extra room under there, and be able to lower for use.

McDave

[flboy]

What are you using for guide pins in the up down rails?


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Go back to here in my Thread, this is where I document the details:


viewtopic.php?f=42&t=65498&start=885


Basically, I took the rollers off the trolleys and kept the mount, but you could fab any piece of steel similarly. You will see the L-Bracket the bed rests on bolted to the trolleys.