7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Hi McDave. The monitor that sits on the dash has a solar cell to charge its internal batteries or it can be plugged into a USB charger.

In the picture, those batteries are for the tire valve stem cap sensors. They just give you 2 extra ones for some reason. Those same batteries are already installed 1 each in the 4 valve stem cap sensors when they arrive.

Thanks for the pics. I am looking forward to Sturgis. I am finally going to get there. A long haul for the CTC and TV.. but I am getting it as ready as I can.

I had a great time at bike week. I am planning on making a short 7 to 10 minute YouTube video to share this weekend.

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[flboy]

Installed the Tire Pressure Monitoring System and initialized it for lbs. and Degrees F instead of Bar and Degrees Celsius tonight. I also set the low pressure and high pressure monitor alarms. It has an over temperature alarm, but I left that at default as I am not sure where I should set that yet. I need to do a little research. It appears to work. The bluetooth connection to controller should work good on pickup dash. I was worried about transmitting distance, but it seems to pickup across the yard at 50ft. It may get weaker as battery power diminishes.

I'll let you know how long the batteries last in the sensors. Reliability jury is out, but for less than $40, so far, so good. Monitor will sit on dash pushed up to window and Sun will keep it charged. I'll just leave the controller in the CTC until ready to tow.


I have the controller plugged in with USB charger for testing. Will take advantage the solar charge in the truck on the dash with no cord.



Nice little solar cell on top to keep the controller charged up.







I am a little concerned with the mass on that sensor affecting valve stem as the tire rotates at 65mph.. but I have not seen any comments regarding that in the online reviews. It seems it should just present a straight line load based on the weight and rotation speed (centrifugal force) , but nonetheless, it will be more of a stress than normal. It does come with 2 spare batteries, O rings and the special tool for opening them up to replace the batteries when needed. They lock on with a nut and the special wrench for that is also included.



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[McDave]

Huh, Well I guess if alerts you that the wheel is out of balance, you'll know where to start.

McDave

[flboy]

Huh, Well I guess if alerts you that the wheel is out of balance, you'll know where to start.

McDave

Lol... yes.

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[flboy]

Well, going to finally hook up the pulleys and cables to have an electric lift on bed.

My wife wants bed as low as possible for sleeping to give max head room and when bed is lowest, lounge space underneath has no headroom. With the electric lift, I can crank it to the ceiling when not in bed and walk under with no ducking at all. When we stop for a quick sleep on the road and leave bike in, I will just lower it enough as needed to sleep.

I've had the winch, pulleys, and cables to finish for a while, but now want to get it done for the road to have the best flexibility.

Pics and video of mechanism to follow soon if this works as it is suppose to.


This is where the electric winch will bolt to the floor. Out of the way under spare tire and then the cables can run along the very back and be out of sight at the bottom and along roofline from far side. I will make a cover for the one cable that crosses floor that will be about a half inch high where door butts up.





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[BigDave_185]

I have wondered how the weight of a bed frame would put pressure on the roof structure, these were never designed to hold loads on top.

Can’t wait for your video


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[flboy]

I have wondered how the weight of a bed frame would put pressure on the roof structure, these were never designed to hold loads on top.

Can’t wait for your video


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The should be no load on ceiling at all. All of it will be a vertical load on walls. I don't have a diagram, but I will see If I can find one on Internet to share so you get the idea.

[flboy]

Edit 3/14/2020: This does not lift evenly. Going to have to modify pulleys to direct lift each corner.



Here is what I am thinking about. I could not find anything so I sketched it the old fashion way given I have no software at home to draw.

So basically, one cable each side running along ceiling line and one cross floor in very back which I will cover with a threshold of some sort. Real clean. I could even hide cables and pulleys at top with some trim cut to same height as pulley diameter and then stood off at pulley width. Then I could put (mood) led lighting behind it. I already have it behind the valence that hides the ramp door wire/spring bar.


Anyone see any problem? I am thinking this cable configuration is the most simple and should simultaneously pull on all four corners with equal force and bed will rise or descend in tracks rolling on the trollies already there without binding or need for adjustments after first tensioned equally at the winch capstan. Also, all the load is still on the walls vertically, so no change there.

Note, if this was clean sheet and I didn't already have the tracks and trolleys in place along with the drop down drawer and storage netting under the bed, I probably do it entirely different, but this will take advantage of the work I already have done without any major modifications or rework.








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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Rigged a lot of flight controls in 25 years, ensuring that the tension
on both cables is equal you should be fine (IMO). A turnbuckle installed in each
will allow adjustment and a tensiometer is necessary to achieve the balance.
They'll stretch at first then "normalize".
https://www.flight-mechanic.com/rigging-checks-pt2/

hank

[flboy]

flboy, Howdy;

Rigged a lot of flight controls in 25 years, ensuring that the tension
on both cables is equal you should be fine (IMO). A turnbuckle installed in each
will allow adjustment and a tensiometer is necessary to achieve the balance.
They'll stretch at first then "normalize".
https://www.flight-mechanic.com/rigging-checks-pt2/

hank

Thanks Hank.... I have never done this before, so that gives me a little more confidence. Thanks. I will install turnbuckles at each anchor point for fine tuning.

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Ideally, not at an anchor point rather in an area of travel that won't bump into a pulley's sheave.

hank

[brianjonesphoto]

The only down side to your design is double the cable pull. I've contemplated a similar design to minimize cable junctions, but it's twice the crank time. Personally I'm leaning toward hand crank/impact wrench vs a full on winch. Might be faster and much quieter. Have you thought about anchoring to the top of the wall and winching from the bed frame?

I just noticed you run vortex generators on your tail. What advantages to you see from them? How long did you tow without them?

[flboy]

Brian, thanks for the input. I hear you on double the pull length. My priority was one cable per side and ensuring even pull. Also wanted the ability to be able to conceal the cables neatly which I think I will be able to do. Certainly there are other configurations that would work just fine.

In any case, I think I'll have about 6ft of cable travel winding up to the winch for total bed travel. The winch has a decent sized capstan, so it should be relatively quick. I will be using a 2,500lb pull electric winch designed for the front of ATV's. They are noisy... I may have to solve that problem later.

I have had the vortex generators a while now. I talk about them further back in the thread if you search. The short of it is they do nothing for mileage that I can tell, but seem to make a big difference in cross wind handling and prevent that sucking over and spitting out that large approaching vehicles from behind cause due the pressure difference normally created which the vortex generator disrupts.

[flboy]

One of the first things I needed to do was make sure I could drill another cable attach point in the capstan. I don't have access to a fancy machine shop so hand tools have to do. This looks like it will work. I just have to tap some threads for a set screw like the original . Close enough I think.

Off to the hardware store to get some things I need to start attaching pulleys and cables to the bed frame and etc..







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[BigDave_185]

I’ll take a photo of the winch system in the garage. Similar idea but what I found is they don’t all function the same.

It’s a bike rack

I have thought that multiple cables pulled to a single cable would work giving equal tension, equal height at same times.

I’ll to get some paper

Hold please lol


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