HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[Tommy B]

Hey Don or any body else! HELP PLEASE ASAP

Take a look at the seam there were the lap sealant covers the screws. It is looking suspiciously in need of redoing as some of the screw heads are coming through the sealant. Also up towards the front the aluminum roof has been indented in a spot close to the seam and there is actually a gap between the sealant and the dicor seam. I did not see that until a day or two ago.

I think I should maybe redo the seams with some type of sealant and coat the roof with Henrys prior to mounting brackets, solar panels and cable covers. UGGG!!
I REALLY don't want to but it might be very foolish not to do it now. I always planned on doing it but kept putting it off.

How should it be done??
What would be good to reseal those seams? And how do you do it? Remove the old sealant completely or just go over it? Use Dicor lap sealant to redo those seams or the Henrys seam and repair stuff? Then coat with the tropi-cool?

Don I have taken tomorrow off to do this but I can change my mind and still come to work if I want to blow this off. If its not really that bad.

I really need advice please. Don, Mcdave, Padilen, any of you regulars. Please Help.

[flboy]

Tommy, my brand new trailer had leaks due to cracks in sealer along the seams at the walls. Dicor lap sealant fixed the problem. They just did not use enough when they built it and some just "sunk in" and I could see some gap under the trim pieces. I used about 4 tubes around the roof edges to fix. If you were to clean it all well and add more lap sealant, it would probably be fine. Henry's is a good idea and should be fine over Dicor. Need to confirm that however. I would not assume Henry's to be my primary seal in any case. I would ensure no leaks first and add that for thermal benefit and a first defense water barrier.

I plan on Henry's for my roof later this year. I am not removing panels to apply underneath, however. The panels themselves provide the thermal benefit of shade and the metal roof is fine without it. I'll put it over all the exposed areas for thermal benefit for sure.. not necessarily as a roof sealer although that is a benefit. That just my 2 cents.

Go to work tomorrow . I think you can do that another day. Just get some dicor lap sealant for any questionable areas and over screw heads.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[Tommy B]

Ok taking tomorrow off to redo those seems. Giant Recreation World said they had a rubber coating to put down first and then to put the dicor lap sealant down over that for the seams.? Hengs rubber roof sealant then dicor lap sealant. That's what they said. I will do one or both tomorrow But not sure yet.

I will be home working at it tomorrow and will update you with a phone call ok Don?

I will look into weather Henrys would work the same way but if GRW said to do it that way I guess I will. Just like they said. What do you think? Hengs full coat and then Dicor.

Talk to you tomorrow. or stop by if your bored!

Lets getter done!

[flboy]

I may stop by tomorrow. Could solder up those wires and etc.. tomorrow instead of Saturday? In any case, I'll give you a call.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[flboy]

Not sure about that Hengs stuff. You dont have a rubber roof and I'd think the dicor is all you'd need.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[Tommy B]

Home Depot in Palm Bay does have these in stock.

I called Henrys TECH Support and They had never heard of Dicor so he did not know if Henrys would stick to Dicor but sad to use henrys seam and repair for the seams and wait 24-48 hours and the coat it all once with the Henrys roof coating. It would be about $110.00 for a gallon of both.

ANY THOUGHTS ANYBODY!
Thanks I will use one or the other.

[Tommy B]

Ok! Got it. I guess this is how I am going to do this.
Before and after.
Hit with wire brush and elbow grease. Pay attention to rotten black bubble voids. Brush em clean. Buff with alcohol. Isopropyl. Save the good stuff for your self your going to need it.

I will just redo the whole top side like this and then re Dicor. Just like the factory did. Whether or not I coat the roof afterward I don't know. I use this 5-10 times a year in the cooler months and that will not change any time too soon. You need 24-48 hours cure time and I was hoping to complete this Saturday also.

Anyway this trailer roof is 10 going on 11 years old and yes the sealant is rotted some.

Hope this helps some one.

[flboy]

I think you got it Tommy. That's all I'd do.

I'll call tomorrow to see what's up .

BTW... I'd have a hard time trusting anything that Henry's tech support guy said if he didn't know what Dicor lap sealant is. It is his business to know that stuff. Sounds more like he wanted to push his wares.

[hankaye]

Tommy B. Howdy;

The guy at the camper store is leading you down the wrong path. He's OK, for a rubber roof but
not a metal roof. Dude at Henry's is most likely a new employee so not aware of the extent of products
on the market.

Best plan that I can offer is remove by the least intrusive method all of the corrosion, gunk, old sealant
and whatever else is up there (leave the permanent objects), give the roof a wash with the vinegar/water
solution then when it's dry apply fresh sealant then paint with Henry's. Keep it simple, don't over think it
take your time, have fun and an Adult beverage of your choice when your finished. oooooooooooommmmmmmmmm ...

hank

[flboy]

We got the solar panel mounted up and connected. Tommy has solar!



Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[m.colley]

Kewl,
I'm hoping to add some solar in the near future so that I can boondock more without using the generator any more than necessary. Conrats Tommy


Martin

[hankaye]

Tommy B. Howdy;

Looks good,
Let us know how well it works for you, if you'll need another panel or ...

hank

[Tommy B]

Thanks. More pics Trailer is back to normal. I'm BEAT. Thank you Don! sorry so short. Heat killing me Working on rear truck doors now. Neither one will open.

I went crazy with the dicor. Ran out and went back but they only had white left jeeze look at that. Oh well it will NEVER leak in my life time.

[featherliteCT1]

You have really been working hard and have completed a lot of tasks the last few weeks. So are you now ready to take a break and go on a trip?

[Tommy B]

No trips for me featherlight until it cools down some. I cant wait to be back in the forest again.

So hey man, check out this voltage reading. I have never seen it that high but once when the battery was 12.2 and the Power Center shore power was charging it.

BUT, the battery is at 100% according to the controller and it is still feeding the battery .44 volts. Its only a 12 volt battery. Is 14.3/14.4 going to be ok long term?

The other battery meter says the same basically. I am socked I tell ya, shocked

Not going to explode is it!