HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:30 pm

I may sleep with the counter up for a safer feeling as needed too.

I think the misses might insist if she ever comes along and some times the camp sight can get rowdy 8) so up goes the shutter!

Don previous page? Thanks.
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby beachguy005 » Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:47 pm

Not sure how you're going to mount those brackets, but if you haven't considered it, you'll need to rout dados in the 2x so the brackets are recessed flush to the face of the 2x. Otherwise you won't be able to lower the table to the down position.
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby flboy » Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:26 pm

Hi Tommy, The router I use that does a fancier job is a table router so the wood would have to come off. I do have a hand router that I can put a nice beveled edge on with. I can come by sometime this weekend to do that. Sure.

How thick is the plywood?
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:30 am

beachguy005 wrote:Not sure how you're going to mount those brackets, but if you haven't considered it, you'll need to rout dados in the 2x so the brackets are recessed flush to the face of the 2x. Otherwise you won't be able to lower the table to the down position.


Oh man I was trying to think this through and envision it but no I did not see that but felt something was wrong. I do not have the brackets yet.

Now also getting up in the middle of the night may be an issue unless the counter is up. :x
I thought about cutting the counter in half and give the option of full or partial counter. Partial at night, full in the day, but IDK if that is wise. And I would need two more hinges that I dont even know will work for me. Sometimes this R&D is down right frustrating and expensive. More than likely this is it. Worst case, decorative chains or rope but it will be done shortly.

Don I would pull that counter top fast and easy yes if it will make it easy. Just let me know. I can still cut the thing in half if needed sooner or later or at the same time.

Dang it. :thinking:

Yeah I think I will make it a two part counter top.

What do you guys think? Would you do it?
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby hankaye » Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:28 am

Tommy B. Howdy;

OK, you asked, I would have used a strip of Piano hinge and instead of the 2X4
I would have used a strip of the same plywood to stand the counter away from
the wall to clear the window's frame. I would use the swing arms made from
the same chunk of plywood to support it in the "in use" position. Also using
some of the Piano hinge to mount the swing arms.Bonus is you get an extra
inch or so of room for those middle of the night wanderings.
There ya have it. Remember you asked. :lol:

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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby flboy » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:11 am

Tommy... Why don't you round/angle either end (significantly) so if you wander in the dark, the edge will guide you into the slot instead of bruising your thigh. Also, you can gain an inch if you do something similar to what Hank mentioned.

In any case, what is driving the depth size? What is the widest thing you may set there? I'd think it would only need to be a dinner plate deep plus an inch or so? It is a long surface, so still a lot of area? At this point, maybe rounding edge and shaving off an inch or two from depth may solve the problems of space and movement without doing anything drastic to the hinge arrangement.
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:02 am

flboy wrote:Tommy... Why don't you round/angle either end (significantly) so if you wander in the dark, the edge will guide you into the slot instead of bruising your thigh. Also, you can gain an inch if you do something similar to what Hank mentioned.

In any case, what is driving the depth size? What is the widest thing you may set there? I'd think it would only need to be a dinner plate deep plus an inch or so? It is a long surface, so still a lot of area? At this point, maybe rounding edge and shaving off an inch or two from depth may solve the problems of space and movement without doing anything drastic to the hinge arrangement.


First, Hank I love that you are straight foward! Yup in hind sight brother I would have done just that. Now Im financially deep in commitment here and gotta see this through some how. :thinking:

Don to answer your question, " In any case, what is driving the depth size? "

The DB when like this. 14 inches just barely gives protection when foldwed up so the handlebar does not punch through the window while rolling the bike in. Now when you tighten it down you you COULD trim like what,4-5 inches off as the bars drop that much BUT I can see myself with my BAD hand droping the bike against the window and breaking it.

by cutting it in half, It would be like having a night stand at night by the open window. Two more door hinges and two more fold down hinges as I am committed here.

Its got to go this way I believe. Yes. :thinking:

Where in the hell is that easy button?
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby McDave » Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:47 am

Looks Good Tommy!

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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby hankaye » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:58 pm

Tommy B. Howdy;

Okey-dokey, you be da boss for your build. You know it best.
What you have is looking good as McD said.

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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Thu Nov 07, 2019 5:13 am

beachguy005 wrote:Not sure how you're going to mount those brackets, but if you haven't considered it, you'll need to rout dados in the 2x so the brackets are recessed flush to the face of the 2x. Otherwise you won't be able to lower the table to the down position.


Well, 2 things here,
I was looking for an easy decision, and when I came home from work, there on the front porch was my package with an EXTRA set of fold down hinges!
Hallelujah! Sweet Jesus I here ya boss! Im on it sir! :worship: Thank you

2ndlyy,
I will learn how to cut four " dados " cuts. I can see it now. I am no carpenter, Im a med tech but I am learning. I will finish this today. I may purchase a hand router if they are cheap, maybe not but that can be done later I just need to get this up ASAP and dont want to burn yet another weekend in side this tin can.

Hank, thank you for the support, I do appreciate it. :)
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby beachguy005 » Thu Nov 07, 2019 6:35 am

If that's what you're going to do you'll have two options. Cutting the dadoes all the way through the 2x so the vertical leg of the bracket mounts directly to the wall, or just deep enough to the thickness of the closed bracket. If you go with just the depth of the bracket, you'll need to add filler blocks to give you wood to mount the lower part of the vertical leg. Your 2x is 3.5 and the bracket is maybe 6". A 1" deep dado will need 1/2" spacer.
You need to make sure your router can cut deep enough. You also want cut about 1/4" at a time. Don't try plowing out the cut in one pass and make sure the cuts are square and plumb.
To get a straight cut you should attach a guide to the piece your cutting. Scraps of wood screwed in would work. Don't try free handing the cut. With a router you'll never cut a straight groove.
It sounds complicated but it's actually pretty easy. Set a guide for each slot. Use a router bit that's wide enough for the brackets so you'll only need one pass for width. Set a 1/4" depth and cut each slot. Add 1/4" and cut each slot....add and repeat until you have the depth you need.
It will be easier if you remove the table top and hinges from the 2x. Otherwise you'll need to be careful as you near top with the router running to not nick the plywood top.
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Thu Nov 07, 2019 6:45 am

beachguy005 wrote:If that's what you're going to do you'll have two options. Cutting the dadoes all the way through the 2x so the vertical leg of the bracket mounts directly to the wall, or just deep enough to the thickness of the closed bracket. If you go with just the depth of the bracket, you'll need to add filler blocks to give you wood to mount the lower part of the vertical leg. Your 2x is 3.5 and the bracket is maybe 6". A 1" deep dado will need 1/2" spacer.
You need to make sure your router can cut deep enough. You also want cut about 1/4" at a time. Don't try plowing out the cut in one pass and make sure the cuts are square and plumb.
To get a straight cut you should attach a guide to the piece your cutting. Scraps of wood screwed in would work. Don't try free handing the cut. With a router you'll never cut a straight groove.
It sounds complicated but it's actually pretty easy. Set a guide for each slot. Use a router bit that's wide enough for the brackets so you'll only need one pass for width. Set a 1/4" depth and cut each slot. Add 1/4" and cut each slot....add and repeat until you have the depth you need.
It will be easier if you remove the table top and hinges from the 2x. Otherwise you'll need to be careful as you near top with the router running to not nick the plywood top.


absolutely invaluable advice and I am on it now. I will check back every couple hours with pics as I proceed. Modstock you have the vision!.

I should have pushed the bike in sooner to check the fit but I thought I knew where the bars would touch. Not so as the bars are actually in the window space. More Hazardous than I thought. :thinking: :thinking:

But :thinking: now to study Modstocks instructions....
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Modstock » Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:37 am

Looking good.
I think you have me mixed up with someone else. I only sent the T-nuts pics.

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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Thu Nov 07, 2019 9:13 am

oh damn, beach guy you are the man! Look at what you did!

My good friend and neighbor lent me this router. I have never used one but It looks like fun. Here we go!
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Re: HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

Postby Tommy B » Thu Nov 07, 2019 12:13 pm

BEHOLD,

The Dado cuts :D

Not perfect but hey. After lunch I will sand and stain. Then I may play with the counter top edges and router. :thinking:

I will cut the unstained piece in two after staining. One piece for each folding hinge.
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