Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I bought some bulbs like #1 for my old CTC when it had typical filament light in it and I converted to LED. I agree, they are disappointing. I think they are poor becuase about 1/5 of the LEDs shine backwards to a reflector which doesn't concentrate and reflect forwards too well. The newer type of LED fixtures have a flat LED circuit card where all the LEDs are facing forward...

The router is a wonderful tool. Kinda scary at times, but imho a great way to do windows. just make sure you tape up the crack between the siding and the sill bar. Tons of saw dust is generated and it would not be good if it got between the siding and insulation.


I didn't feel like running all the wires, so I put in a piece of conduit.


Porch light is mounted!!

There were 6 screws in a row that missed the top rail completely. These trailers are so slam bang, gets on my ocd perfectionist nerves.

My solution

Excellent solution. And yes, accuracy and precision is not job #1 @ trailer manufactures. Also, yes your OCD is showing, but that used to be a good thing.

McDave

Did you order that step w/trailer? Does it fold away? I think I'll be needing one before too long.

McDave

I didn't want a built RV because I've torn down so many of them and saw some sloppy work. My moms RV is a "better" trailer. That just means more standard options, not quality. You find all the saw dust and panels cut out laying somewhere. My CT was clean of sawdust but had lots of aluminum shavings. I helped my friends pull off the inside corner caps, of their CT. There was sawdust & plywood pieces that held moisture from ramp door seal leak. I mentioned crappy pride of workers. Actually the worker might have wanted to clean it up but boss wouldn't allow time for it.

McDave wrote:Did you order that step w/trailer? Does it fold away? I think I'll be needing one before too long.

McDave

It does fold away. I believe it was included with the rv door when I ordered it.

Preparing to cut some more holes in my trailer.


Router worked great for about 3 inches. So if you have ever wondered how a router works on aluminum siding ... "Not so well." Roto Zip on the other hand, "Awesome."


Power and water inlets are installed!!!


Inside view

Looks great, your making good progress.


Martin

m.colley wrote:Looks great, your making good progress.
Martin

It's kinda depressing, as the wood goes back on the walls it looks like you haven't done anything. And you realize how much more there is to do.

Iconfabul8 wrote:

m.colley wrote:Looks great, your making good progress.
Martin

It's kinda depressing, as the wood goes back on the walls it looks like you haven't done anything. And you realize how much more there is to do.

That's exactly how I felt last week!... I know what you mean! BTW... nice clean holes! I need to get a Rotozip! I have been doing it the hard way all this time!

45 Deg Neg Torsion, that's rare already as 98% here love springs. Did you also get never adjust breaks?

Super Nice job on ac, I would have thought the door would hit top of the ac as it comes down in an ark. One would also think this design is tricky to seal out water intrusion.

Great work

Ottct

flboy wrote:That's exactly how I felt last week!... I know what you mean! BTW... nice clean holes! I need to get a Rotozip! I have been doing it the hard way all this time!

The boards between the skin and the wall wood, I cut out with a jigsaw, bandsaw, holesaw, whatever works. The wall wood is routered using the center wood as a guide and the aluminum is rotoziped. The water inlet is the only hole so far that I have rotoziped that had wood in the center rather than metal. I was real worried it would zip through the wood and mess up the skin. So I was careful not to put too much pressure against the side. It seemed to work ok. luckily I had a hole saw the right size for the power inlet. I still have the windows to do and one side has a maple board. I am kinda nervous about them. I'm thinking I might be able to leave the cutter out of the chuck enough that the smooth shank will drag on the wood instead of the flutes. Check that tomorrow.

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:45 Deg Neg Torsion, that's rare already as 98% here love springs. Did you also get never adjust breaks?
Super Nice job on ac, I would have thought the door would hit top of the ac as it comes down in an arch. One would also think this design is tricky to seal out water intrusion.
Great work
Ottct

To be honest I'm not sure if my brakes are self adjusting or not. As for the ramp hole clearing the ac, that was the first thought I had as well. Turns out the ark on a 6'+ radius in 10 inches is very minimal, About .7 of an inch. I gave it 2". I guess time will tell on how it does with the water. I still have to install the rubber seals and caulk the ramp hole. We did have a big rain storm and I was expecting a flood inside, especially since I can't get the trailer level because of the steep driveway I am parked on. But even without caulking and seals the water that got in was minimal.

If you didn't pay extra, you most likely don't have never adjust breaks. Good news however it's a very cheap easy retro fit, now that I got them, wouldn't tow a trailer without them. Adjusting breaks is a major PIA.

Really great ac design, I would have also guessed a 2" or greater ark. I busted my nut over your idea, but didn't come up such a simple design. I was thinking about it for a mini split that would not actually go through the door, but be used on a ramp door set up.

Cheers ottct


http://overthetopcargotrailer.blogspot.com/

Looking good Iconfabul8.

Your door placement was what I was thinking as I'm still in the planing stage of my own conversion. Thank you.

I would love to see your layout plan.