Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hader wrote:

Hader,

Is your air conditioner mounted on it's side? If so, I did not know that they could operate that way.

Also, how do you like the performance so far? .... I know that some have noted that the units setting on the floor do not perform as well as the units mounted high because the cold air tends to settle on the floor.

Thanks

featherliteCT1 wrote:

Hader wrote:

Hader,

Is your air conditioner mounted on it's side? If so, I did not know that they could operate that way.

Also, how do you like the performance so far? .... I know that some have noted that the units setting on the floor do not perform as well as the units mounted high because the cold air tends to settle on the floor.

Thanks

It's Right-side up. We only tried it at an outside temperature of 106°, Trailer skin was between 112º to 125º. trailer was under a cover, but it was S. Texas. We got the temperature down to 80° in 2 hrs, we then (knowing that it's working) turned the AC off.
As to the floor! We'll have to wait and see if there's a noticeable difference, considering the small space. We can always use a fan to compensate.

Any input would be appreciated.

Found this TV antenna plan https://www.popularmechanics.com/cultur ... v-antenna/ and built it as per instructions (A).
It works perfectly.

I'm thinking about building one for the trailer (as in B). Would the configuration of (B) effect the reception?

Hader, Howdy;

Not being any way, shape, or whatever smart about anything, especially anything to do with engineering
I venture to say that when you have build 'A' you are sourcing your signal with both sides of the yagi and not
just a single side as you would with build 'B'. Anyway I found this;
https://turbofuture.com/misc/Pros-and-C ... i-Antennas
and for that balun term I found this;
https://www.google.com/search?q=balun&o ... e&ie=UTF-8

I'm sure that someone much more knowledgeable will show up to help ya get a bit further ...

hank

hankaye wrote:when you have build 'A' you are sourcing your signal with both sides of the yagi and not
just a single side as you would with build 'B'.

Thank you Hank.

What got me confused is that It looks as if (B) is also sourcing both sides. What am I missing?

Hader, Howdy;

Hader wrote:

hankaye wrote:when you have build 'A' you are sourcing your signal with both sides of the yagi and not
just a single side as you would with build 'B'.

Thank you Hank.

What got me confused is that It looks as if (B) is also sourcing both sides. What am I missing?

Your probably not missing anything, rather I most likely am, flboy (Don), would most likely be the responsible adult in the room
for this conversation. To me it appears that "A" would be more like a balanced reception, stereo as an example only, by gathering
signals from both sides equally and "B" would be more like monaural one half is pulling from it's side and the other the same. Maybe
I got that part backwards as well ...As I mentioned at the beginning of my initial post, I ain't an expert at anything as my ex's all
3, even if I did re-do with #2 so is that 4??? Google can be your friend and from what I saw, these Yagi's can send and receive but
the arms (V-shaped bits), need to be specific lengths for specific frequence segments.
Make one of each and see how they compare, re-build the worser of the 2 to match the better...

hank

hankaye wrote:To me it appears that "A" would be more like a balanced reception, stereo as an example only, by gathering
signals from both sides equally and "B" would be more like monaural one half is pulling from it's side and the other the same.

That may be what I'm overlooking.

We are very happy with (A), just was wondering why it couldn't be wired differently.

I'll wait and see what Don has to say.

Hader, Howdy;

Hader wrote:

hankaye wrote:To me it appears that "A" would be more like a balanced reception, stereo as an example only, by gathering
signals from both sides equally and "B" would be more like monaural one half is pulling from it's side and the other the same.

That may be what I'm overlooking.

We are very happy with (A), just was wondering why it couldn't be wired differently.

I'll wait and see what Don has to say.

Very wise ...

hank

Hader wrote:Any input would be appreciated.

Found this TV antenna plan https://www.popularmechanics.com/cultur ... v-antenna/ and built it as per instructions (A).
It works perfectly.

I'm thinking about building one for the trailer (as in B). Would the configuration of (B) effect the reception?

Hader, short answer is yes, I think the B configuration would affect reception in that it would be less than A.

Each opposing pair of the little "V's" is an element with a more precise length and separation at the ends of the "V", and to improve the signal/gain, the received signals from each element needs to be in phase at the feedpoint to "add". Just looking at it, I believe the intent of the center feed and crisscrossed phase bar is to achieve the "in phase" benefit (better gain).


On B, the bottom feed may present some phasing problems in addition to a higher impedance at the feedpoint.

In both cases, you must run the coax into a Balun before connecting to the antenna.

Since it should be easy to re-configure the feedpoint and phasebar as shown, you can try both configurations and see what you get with all else being the same. I think you will notice "A" brings in more distant stations. For receiving a signal, any old wire may bring in a strong station , so B will work for stronger stations but may not pick up stations further away due to less gain.

Just my thoughts. BTW... this is a knockoff of a 4 element Bowtie antenna. You could further improve reception and reduce noise by putting some wire mesh on the opposite side. It should be electrically isolated from the antenna.

I've made 2, they look like A, work well, with a booster.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Thank you Don.

flboy wrote: you must run the coax into a Balun before connecting to the antenna.

I'm using it without a Balun for now. I'll be getting one Saturday.

Padilen wrote:I've made 2, they look like A, work well, with a booster.

What kind of booster are referring to?

Hader wrote:Thank you Don.

flboy wrote: you must run the coax into a Balun before connecting to the antenna.

I'm using it without a Balun for now. I'll be getting one Saturday.

Yes, that will match the impedance of the Antenna Feed Point to the TV receiver input. Again, may not make a huge difference on strong stations, but will help on weaker ones. Baluns are very important if you are transmitting, but do make a difference on receive also and they cost very little.

Hader wrote:

Padilen wrote:I've made 2, they look like A, work well, with a booster.

What kind of booster are referring to?

Signal booster or some call it an amplifier.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Hello everyone,

We just acquired a portable message sign (the type used by the State at highway construction areas). It came with 5 Siemens 90-Watt solar panels and 8 Continental Heavy Duty MSDS - Lead Acid batteries. Group 4-D. The batteries haven’t been used for 3-4 years and we have no idea how old they are.

Any ideas on the possibility of Reconditioning the batteries?

Thank you.