Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Well I'm fixin to take the plunge into CTC conversion land. I am ordering my trailer tomorrow if everything goes as planned.

I have decided on a 7' x 14' flat nose w/5,200lbs SA. I'm goin with the straight axle for more ground clearance. I have a few things I have spec'ed out on it. The trailer will be black, with a black out package, to match my truck. I'm goin with a 60" tongue to allow me room for a generator and storage rack up front. There will be a 18" x 24" cargo door on the front corner (for my AC). The side walk in door will be moved back 30" from the front corner to allow me room for cabinets in the front.

The back 12' will be left open for a range of uses. My primary use will be a dive trailer during the summer and camp trailer during hunting season. I have found some great ideas and plans for my build on this site and the multiple CTC facebook pages. I plan on sharing my build as I go, can't wait to get it started.


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Congratulations! I look forward to your build.

Down the road, if you get some time, please take a couple of pictures of the straight axle. I like the idea for extra height.

Take care, Tom

aggie79 wrote:Congratulations! I look forward to your build.

Down the road, if you get some time, please take a couple of pictures of the straight axle. I like the idea for extra height.

Take care, Tom

Will do. I like the idea of getting an extra 4" in height.


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Welcome Sir,
In my experience, the best place for added height is the interior. If you are an average sized Dude, Think about 6'6" or 7'
Ceiling height. I have about an inch of headspace in my 6x12 x6. It's not great. Feels small and closed in when you are standing.

McDave

McDave wrote:Welcome Sir,
In my experience, the best place for added height is the interior. If you are an average sized Dude, Think about 6'6" or 7'
Ceiling height. I have about an inch of headspace in my 6x12 x6. It's not great. Feels small and closed in when you are standing.

McDave

The inside height on mine will be 6'3"!!!! That gives me plenty of head room.


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I have come up with a bedding idea for my CTC. I have seen a few post with folks using a rail system to make the bed move up and down. Well I'm goin with a similar idea for mine. I plan to put 2-5' pcs of vertical e-track on both side walls, and use the e-track shelf brackets to allow me to lay 2- 2" X 6"s across them to make a platform. Which I will beef it up to make it support a queen size mattress.

This will allow me to put the bed as high or as low as I want it, for what ever application I choose. Although I will not be able to move the bed up and down fast, but it's a start.

I hope this paints a general idea of my plan. Any input would be great.


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firemansd19 wrote:I have come up with a bedding idea for my CTC. I have seen a few post with folks using a rail system to make the bed move up and down. Well I'm goin with a similar idea for mine. I plan to put 2-5' pcs of vertical e-track on both side walls, and use the e-track shelf brackets to allow me to lay 2- 2" X 6"s across them to make a platform. Which I will beef it up to make it support a queen size mattress.

This will allow me to put the bed as high or as low as I want it, for what ever application I choose. Although I will not be able to move the bed up and down fast, but it's a start.

I hope this paints a general idea of my plan. Any input would be great.


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Plan on doing the same thing. It's a common solution.


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Robbed the donor camper a few days ago. I was able to get a few good windows and a ton of other stuff. Can't wait to get started. Hopefully my trailer will be here in the next week or so.


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Trailer finally arrived. I'm ready to start my project, just have to knock this upcoming 7 day cruise out the way. Hopefully in about 2-3 weeks I can get to work.


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Very Nice When you said black you weren't kidding! The only thing not black are the lug nuts and hub cap (nothin a little Krylon can't solve!)

Scomi21 wrote:

firemansd19 wrote:I have come up with a bedding idea for my CTC. I have seen a few post with folks using a rail system to make the bed move up and down. Well I'm goin with a similar idea for mine. I plan to put 2-5' pcs of vertical e-track on both side walls, and use the e-track shelf brackets to allow me to lay 2- 2" X 6"s across them to make a platform. Which I will beef it up to make it support a queen size mattress.

This will allow me to put the bed as high or as low as I want it, for what ever application I choose. Although I will not be able to move the bed up and down fast, but it's a start.

I hope this paints a general idea of my plan. Any input would be great.

Plan on doing the same thing. It's a common solution.

You can also use 1.25 x 1.25 steel, seen here....







260# slept on the R without problems
200# on the L

I have made a little progress over the past few day, but it is a slow progress.


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I definitely had to fix their wacko wiring.

On my second trip to town with it, blowed a fuse for the right running light. Hopefully problem solved.


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Hey fireman,
I'm sure you have read about subpar wiring in nearly all these trailers, so no surprise you experienced a failure, on trip 2.
This is the time to go through the entire system and inspect and repair/ replace/ upgrade. If you don't have a schematic or diagram, you can write one while the walls are open and wiring is accessible.
Personally, I would go through and get rid of all those scotch lock splices and any other cheesy connectors. They are guaranteed to fail.Solder and shrink tubes if possible.
Did you find the source of the failure for the running light? Blown fuse = high amps. Short to Ground?
In fact, the trailer running and brake lights are only fused at the tow vehicle for my rig.

Just my .02

McDave

McDave wrote:Hey fireman,
I'm sure you have read about subpar wiring in nearly all these trailers, so no surprise you experienced a failure, on trip 2.
This is the time to go through the entire system and inspect and repair/ replace/ upgrade. If you don't have a schematic or diagram, you can write one while the walls are open and wiring is accessible.
Personally, I would go through and get rid of all those scotch lock splices and any other cheesy connectors. They are guaranteed to fail.Solder and shrink tubes if possible.
Did you find the source of the failure for the running light? Blown fuse = high amps. Short to Ground?
In fact, the trailer running and brake lights are only fused at the tow vehicle for my rig.

Just my .02

McDave

I found the short. If u look at the pic u can see the wire sticking out the clamp. It hit the walll and that was a wrap. I have traced the wording from the tongue to the tail lights and replaced all the cheesy clamps with but connectors. I also secured the wiring better so it isn't just bouncing around goin down the road.

My next project is window installation and insulation. I have my window cleaned up and prepped, template cut, and almost convinced cutting a hole in my new trailer is the right thing to do. I'm working a 3 day shift at the FD this week so as soon as I can get a day off I will go buy the metal for the window bracing and bed bracing.


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