Padilen wrote:Instead of a new axle have you considered an axle flip? Dexter makes such a kit, that's what I used on mine.
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Padilen wrote:Yes to welding, on the Dexter kit.I don't think it would cost much to have a welder do it.
Your weight limit is a little odd as axles are normally 2500 and 3500. 3500 in many states are required to have brakes. So you may actually have 3500 that they down rate because it lacks brakes. My axle is a 4" drop going straight gains 4" a flip about 2-1/2-3" ( height of axle tube. But costs about 1/10 th of an axle. Yet if it was me I'd do brakes. Which you maybe able to add.
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fourbtgait wrote:I like the concept of the drop down ramp as a back porch. Even more so if you could enclose it securely with the right shelter. I thought of it but enjoy the aspect of a rear kitchen.
Skylights are easy to build except for temperature differiantations between materials and the need to account for expansion and contractions. I have built some for a shop roof.
Windows... I have only built wood framed in the past. Lot of work but satisfying. I bought rv windows....
mallymal wrote:What beautiful renderings
M C Toyer wrote:What are your plans for bathing / showering during the initial full time use (3-9 months)?
Have you considered a side entry door in addition to the rear ramp? Seems like opening and closing the ramp would become quite a chore. In lieu of that perhaps at least replace two of the small windows with a large "safety hatch" window for emergencies.
Since your sink will be gravity fed why not use some of the 5 - 7 gallon jugs for your fresh water supply? You could place the one in use on a shelf or rack above the sink. That would simplify resupply - you would not have to break camp and haul the trailer to a water point.
I like having the ramp as a deck for additional space and a simple screen tent on it would double your floor space and provide a bug free area with full ventilation.
Padilen wrote:Since mine is a toy hauler CTC I need my ramp as a ramp. Since the flip increased the ramp angle. I had to add more traction (anti slip tape), than the anti slip additive in paint. For me and my use a straight axle would have been to much added to the ramp angle. If you go straight ground clearance for axle will increase. Not with flip, only the springs would change. Raising only what's above them. So if you go straight how high do you want to go? Over sprung or under sprung. Take into consideration, entry heights. Carrying a step stool takes space. But installing an RV style step takes away some ground clearance.
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hankaye wrote:tylerjd, Howdy;
Welcome to the forum ...
Good idea about ensuring you have brakes for the trailer. Word of caution, if you just have the flat
4 pin connector plug you'll need to also up grade it to the 7 pin plug and adjust the wiring harness
to enable them to function.
hank
tylerjd wrote:hankaye wrote:tylerjd, Howdy;
Welcome to the forum ...
Good idea about ensuring you have brakes for the trailer. Word of caution, if you just have the flat
4 pin connector plug you'll need to also up grade it to the 7 pin plug and adjust the wiring harness
to enable them to function.
hank
Ah of course, thank you Hank. It is currently just a 4-flat, I'll add to the list.
I read that it can be a good idea to get a brake controller where you can manually activate the trailer's brakes, in case it gets squirrely on the highway. Activating just the trailer brakes will cause the trailer to straighten out.
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