Electrical: AC power questions

[gbowman]

I am planning to do AC power and will be wiring it basically like a house. I had thought about DC power but for my need I will spend very little time off the grid. Sad to say!!!

Has anyone done this?
What should I be aware of?
Should I use indoor or outdoor wiring? should I use conduit?
Plan now is to set it up for a 50amp service. I don't see myself ever using that.
I will only be running a 13,500 btu AC and will use space heaters in the winter.
Refrig, TV, Computer, LED lights, and small miscellaneous items.

Should I use one of the trailer mounted receptacles or the pigtail for the outside connection?

I was looking for the smallest breaker panel I could find that was also low cost. I figure I was get an outdoor 125amp panel. (easier to mount)

Thanks for your advice.

[Hader]

"Should I use indoor or outdoor wiring? should I use conduit?
"Plan now is to set it up for a 50amp service"
"Should I use one of the trailer mounted receptacles or the pigtail for the outside connection?"
"looking for the smallest breaker panel I could find that was also low cost.

Use what you got. Conduit where it's loose and will will rub any thing.

50 Amp is plenty.

Trailer mounted is better (IMHO).

Just have enough Amps & breakers for what you need.

[aggie79]

Most residential panels are set up for two hots and one neutral plus ground (120/240 v). A 50 amp RV circuit has two hots and one neutral plus ground (120/240 v) also. A 30 amp RV circuit has one hot and one neutral plus ground (120 v).

Most RV pedestals have both 50 amp and 30 amp service, but not all do. Some have 30 amp only. I would use a 30 amp service and an RV/marine 120 v panel instead of a residential panel for this reason.

[Hader]

aggie79 is right.
Just get 1 of these for places that have only 50 Amp receptacles: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Park-Power-5 ... 3=&veh=sem

Ours setup is 30 Amps, we carry: 50 to 30 and 15 to 30 Adapters.

[m.colley]

I know of alot of people that wire just for 120V. Running DC wiring isn't just for people that want to boondock, some just want the low power solution that DC provides. LED's are the way to go for lighting w/o the heat regardless of wiring AC or DC.

Like Hader & Aggie, my CTC is wired for both 120V AC and 12V DC. Mine is wired for a 30A service and I carry several adapters. Lately we've been camping in State parks and they provide a 30A and 20A plug/receptacle.



Martin

[Shadow Catcher]

What you want now may not be what you want in the future. I would say install the wring for 12V while you can do it easily,

[m.colley]

What you want now may not be what you want in the future. I would say install the wring for 12V while you can do it easily,

Ditto what Shadow said, even if you just run the wire to some key locations for later use. It sure beats the hell out of having to take nicely done work down when you change your mind later.



Martin

[McDave]

+1 At least some12 volt wiring. Then you can operate off the tow vehicle at a minimum, and add converter/charger and battery and solar as desired.

McDave

[working on it]

• I used 110vac extension cords for my park power to trailer (different lengths and gauge according to distance and load), then connected to a GFCI and a re-settable surge protector, and another extension cord inside the trailer (14 gauge, inside an automotive-type grey wire loom), and for exterior lighting (rope lights) plugged into the trailer. All are outdoor type, and my inlet port is waterproof. For 12vdc, I use 4 gauge cables from the battery inside the tonguebox to my master disconnect in the galley, then via 10 gauge wires to a second, 50 amp switch (on the side of a key box, fitted with 1-5 amp automotive fuses for different circuits, and an inverter inside, in case of 110vac failure at night).
• I also have an onboard 2500 watt generator, with extended-run fuel tank, just in case I need to use 110vac all night, in an emergency. Loud, but available. It can also charge my trailer or truck's batteries (I carry a BatteryMinder 1.5 amp trickle charger for the trailer, primarily, and a Schumacher XCS15 charger - good for either my AGM trailer battery, or for my truck's flooded cell battery).

• 

  XCS15.PNG (166.06 KiB) Viewed 2213 times

  cheap, but efficient for use on all type batteries
• I've had no problems with any of my circuits, ac or dc, but I carry extra GFCIs and a GFCI tester (which also tests the power pole polarity).
• All my circuits are easily serviced, being semi-exposed, with no inner insulation or second wall to cover them; that's probably the best feature of a simple 3/4" plywood structure! But, again, I carry extra fuses, extension cords (3 or 4), and 50-30 and 30-15 amp adapters for my cords. Be prepared!
• Wiring the 110vac side was my main concern...the 12vdc wiring was a simple thing to a car guy like me, having wired dozens of circuits (some with questionable, used wire- don't do that!) over the decades. At first, I used no protection or breakers for the 110vac, but, then thought better of it, and carried along GFCI equipment (I thought that my 110vac circuits all being inside, and waterproof, that breakers inside the power pole would be sufficient. However, since I have rope lights exposed to the weather outside, I have heard my GFCI trip during monsoon downpours (every time I camp). I keep resetting until I locate the bad (not watertight connection). Don't go camping without a GFCI or two. After I experienced some major power surges at home, I installed a re-settable surge protector in my trailer to protect those circuits, too, just in case the GFCI didn't trip. My 5k BTU window unit A/C system has both it's own non-GFCI surge strip for axial duct fan and computer case fan (cools the chassis), and the A/C itself has a circuit breaker integral to its' power cord. Everything works, no problema, and simple to wire up.