Stranded vs. Solid Core Wire

[phoenixbound]

When running wire in trailer for accessories, outlets, lights, etc what is the rule of thumb for when to use stranded wire vs. when solid core is acceptable? I plan to run some wire for 110 outlets, but I would like to also run some wire for future add-ons that will be 12 V. I am thinking 10 AWG stranded for the 12 V stuff, but should stranded also be used for the 110 V stuff? Thank you.

[QueticoBill]

Stranded pulls and flexes easier. Solid is slightly easier to terminate. Stranded costs slightly more. Both work.

[Viper_Twig]

10awg is overkill

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[McDave]

10awg is pretty big for almost any 12v load. Good for solar charging, 12v reefers, high loads and long runs. 14 covers most 12v fans, lights etc. up to 20amp. max. Stranded is easier to work with and handles stresses such as vibration better.

McDave

[John61CT]

I would never use solid in a mobile context.

Marine grade tinned stranded UL1426 Type 3 only, just get three or four gauges in 100' spools, last many projects.

And quality connectors, terminators and crimpers only.

If you're only doing a few runs, not worth stocking up, use genuinedealz.com for custom length to your specs.

Blue Sea has a great app for calculating wire gauge, based on Amps and run length.

Larger gauges than the minimum required for safety help reduce voltage drops, so #10 is frequently called for in properly wired setups.

[MtnDon]

Note that every commercially manufactured RV I have had occasion to tinker with has used solid Romex type wires for the AC circuits, and the usual stranded core automotive type wire for the DC circuits.

[John61CT]

I was talking about the 12V, but personally would pay the little extra for AC as well even if amps are lower, just too much vibration going on for solid, on nick and months or years later, boom flopping around.

OEM is all about cost cutting, have seen horrifying stuff done by manufacturers I'd never want for myself, so that's no authority to go by.

You never see solid on boats, where there is actually some regulation of the industry. Nor airplanes, even more so. Ask an insurance adjustor what they'd prefer. . .

[phoenixbound]

Thanks for the comments. So, all of the wiring should be strand within the trailer? AC and DC? I don't plan on a lot of additional wiring, but I will have some. I plan to take off the side plywood to add insulation and while I have the plywood off I would like to set up a few things for the future. I may add a air conditioner in the future and I want to route the wire for it while I am there. Within the trailer it doesn't seem like there would be much motion or vibration.

I was talking about the 12V, but personally would pay the little extra for AC as well even if amps are lower, just too much vibration going on for solid, on nick and months or years later, boom flopping around.

OEM is all about cost cutting, have seen horrifying stuff done by manufacturers I'd never want for myself, so that's no authority to go by.

You never see solid on boats, where there is actually some regulation of the industry. Nor airplanes, even more so. Ask an insurance adjustor what they'd prefer. . .

[m.colley]

I used both stranded and solid in my build. The 120V AC was done in romex and the 12V DC in stranded.
If I was to build another I'd run stranded in the correct size. Why?? Just because the stranded is easier to run and work with. This is just my opinion. As some others said, use the correct connectors/terminals and crimpers. I bought a inexpensive pair of ratcheting crimpers and wouldn't trade them for anything. The jaws are interchangeable and you can find them easily on amazon, ebay etc. I used un-insulated terminals/connectors and heat shrinked them.


Martin