Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

John61CT wrote:
Look at cheap storage facilities nearby, some have great deals, and the really big automated ones you may be able to work a few hours at a time most days.

Just make sure they don't think you're sleeping onsite!

Great idea! Luckily my brother in laws family has a machine shop which is fenced in and is where I'm parking it. It's great and it's free but still not the same as parking it the driveway.

I stopped by on my way home this evening to drop off my saw horses and ladder. I looked up on the roof and noticed there's a lot of standing water (it's rained off and on all day today). Also noticed the vent is cracked. Guess my fantastic fan just moved up the list of things to buy.

Well Today was my only day to work on the trailer this weekend and of course it's raining. Luckily there's plenty of room inside to set out the saw horses and cut the insulation.

I spray painted all the steel tubing, as I guess the factory sees that as a cost saving measure by not doing it (most people wouldn't even know). I started on one side and worked my way towards the rear removing the plywood. I wasn't able to get the last section of wood off because there was aluminum flashing angled from the rear door frame. It was covering the last row of screws and I couldn't get it loose. I'll pick a dry day to figure out how to remove it so I can complete that side.

I was able to get the insulation in and all the wood back up. I figure that side section is the most important since the cable hatch and vents will be in that area.

I also picked up 2 - 6 volt duracell golf cart batteries last night. For now, I'll just charge them up before and after camping. Eventually, I'll get some solar panels and not have to worry about charging. This first outing we'll have shore power so only the led interior lights and fantastic fan will run off the batteries.

Yep

John61CT wrote:Seems maybe a good idea to rust-proof any exposed steel yourself whenever you get a chance.

But other than that

> I'd like to get your feedback on build quality, when you've gotten into it.

SilverStreaker wrote:I also picked up 2 - 6 volt duracell golf cart batteries last night. For now, I'll just charge them up before and after camping. Eventually, I'll get some solar panels and not have to worry about charging. This first outing we'll have shore power so only the led interior lights and fantastic fan will run off the batteries.

Those look like nice batteries. What is the Amp Hour rating for them?

​Duracell # SLIGC115 is 230AH, same as ​Deka GC15

Also slighty smaller version is 215AH

make sure you get FLA not sealed.

Batteries+ or Sam's Club

Best value true deep cycle available

flboy wrote:Those look like nice batteries. What is the Amp Hour rating for them?

Thanks! They are 215 AH. I was looking for the a little higher rating but they don't stock them. Plus, I was able to get these for $89. each after a 10% online discount was applied. My plan is to pick up at least 2 more within the next month or so.

John61CT wrote:​Duracell # SLIGC115 is 230AH, same as ​Deka GC15

Also slighty smaller version is 215AH

make sure you get FLA not sealed.

Batteries+ or Sam's Club

Best value true deep cycle available

Yeah, I was wanting the 230ah but these should work just fine and I couldn't beat the price.

SilverStreaker wrote:Yeah, I was wanting the 230ah but these should work just fine and I couldn't beat the price.

Yes, yours is same as a Deka GC-10, BCI size is GC2

There is also a SLIGC145UT, BCI size GC2H @ 255AH

These are all made by East Penn, many say just as good as Trojan these days. Except for their RE line, much better but lots pricier.

Certainly better than Costco's, which are Johnson Controls.

I got a lot done today. Interior lights wired up, porch light installed and insulation up on the ceiling.

The other day I installed my fan-tastic vent (what an ordeal that was) along with a bug screen for my side door and mounted my fuse block and power energy meter. I didn't take any pictures but I'll be back on it Friday and will be sure to get some.

I do need some ideas though on how to install a bug screen for the rear door. I bought one off amazon that should fit perfect but the cable system for the door will mess up the installation. I'm thinking about disengaging the cables which will solve that problem but not sure if that's the best or only option. Thanks!

I don't think you want run without those cables. The ramps are heavy and might get away from you. So maybe mount inside of the spring and cables? Or make a relief cut for the cables at the top? I am not familiar with how they mount at top, snaps or Velcro? A rollup curtain type might be possible.
Just Ideas.

McDave

McDave wrote:I don't think you want run without those cables. The ramps are heavy and might get away from you. So maybe mount inside of the spring and cables? Or make a relief cut for the cables at the top? I am not familiar with how they mount at top, snaps or Velcro? A rollup curtain type might be possible.
Just Ideas.

McDave

Thanks!
I hung the screen leaving the corners unsecured. I closed the door to look at the clearance but there's no way to "permanently" attach the ends without the cables getting in the way.

I added some velcro to the screen and now can attach the corners once the door is opened. There's still a little gap but I think we'll be able to live with that.

I think you are right McDave, that ramp is much heavier than it seems and it would not be safe to remove the cables.

I don't suppose there were any type directions provided with that screen, no of course not. So it is like a Chinese puzzle. I hate those. So all I can think of is to make carefully placed cuts to accommodate the cables, plus you may need to make one to get past the pulley on each side. Now the question becomes how to keep the screen from unravelling where the cuts were made. I know there is a product for mending screen, Iron on I believe. That gave me an idea for the cable relief. If you made a vertical cut just long enough from the top so the cable could travel freely through it's range, you could then iron on or sew a boarder or hem like the one at the top of the screen to keep the cut edges from unravelling and also would keep bugs out. So the cut would have a right hem, and a left hem that butt up next to each other but allow the cable to move between. I hope that made sense. I don't know what to call that material, webbing maybe? Anyways, that's the best I can think of.
Good Luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Window-Screen-Re ... B00SKJT81U

McDave

SilverStreaker, Howdy;

If you have an electric soldering gun/iron, then you can use that to "cut" the fabric
and prevent it from wanting to continue separating. Smells nasty so make sure you have
good ventilation. You can use some Velcro to hem the edges so that you can open
and close it to reduce the ariel attacks.

hank

One other idea to consider is to mount the screen on the ceiling forward of the cable lift instead aft of it. You'll hardly lose any space.