Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Might consider a manual transfer switch instead of automatic transfer switch on the AC input. On the DC side consider using separate protected (fuse/breaker) circuits for each DC appliance and running the inverter off one of protected circuits rather than the battery. On the future solar, I believe you'll need some manner of selecting charging from the controller and convertor so that both are not charging at the same time.

sodatrain wrote:Thanks guys!

Whew... head hurts. Just searched and read for a couple hours... trying to figure out how to design my electrical system.

Here is what I have so far... can you please review and let me know what's wrong or doesn't make sense? I created it using Google Drawings, so happy to "share" it and give access for editing... just PM me your email!

Goals:

1) Use shore power OR generator to power the AC, possibly a TV/Xbox, and to charge the batteries.
2) Have limited 120v for an outlet or two for things like laptop driven by the 12v batteries. I have a car inverter and may just use that.
3) Design with solar in mind in the future.

I have questions still.... but let's see how I'm doing with my understanding so far. Also, I believe I can use a PD4045 for the 120v/12v panel and converter right? Or buy separate components?

No need for a transfer switch between the Generator and the Shore power. They are mutually exclusive if they plug into the same input to the CTC. I see no purpose in those being separate. For emergency backup at a house that would be appropriate, but an entirely different type of switch (rating and etc.). Typically the transfer switch used in the RV would go between the 120VAC inputs (Shore or Gen) and the inverter output to drive outlets that are in common... You can wire any outlets you want for Generator or Shore power only exclusive of the shared inverter power as needed. I used two panels for this.. one main which drives the converter, Air Conditioner, Electric Hot water (things you don't want to or shouldn't run off the inverter) from Generator or Shore power only, and then another panel which is switched between the Shore/Gen and the inverter to drive all the other AC outlets intended for AC appliances that do not exceed inverter capabilities.


BTW.. if you use a transfer... get a manual Blade Switch. I had the Auto Transfer and it worked... but it failed after only a few months. It is really no effort to throw the switch and I can share a link with you... you can get the blade transfer switch for about $23.00 vs the ~$115.00 for an auto transfer which is bulky and apparently not too reliable.

This is how my CTC is wired... just for some ideas... This could be done with an all in one panel... but you'd still need another panel for the transfer between Shore/Gen and Inverter... That would come after the all in one. I did mine as separate components (breaker panels, converter/charger, DC distribution) for "repair" reasons.... Converter/charger is the most likely module to fail since it contains all the electronics.... I can replace that piece without unhooking everything else (only 4 wires) for half the price compared to if I had to replace the whole all in one and unhook.hookup all the circuits. I am always thinking about servicing things later... comes from my days as a Field Engineer... makes a difference how quickly you can perform a repair on the ramp. Now hopefully things never break.. but sooner or later, they will and they always fail at the worst times.. Just been my experience anyhow.

I will post a manual transfer switch link for you later on.. edit..... https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Copper-Swi ... ife+switch
This is a 100A switch... overkill probably. You can get a 63A one for $17.00 . At a campground you will only have 30A or 50A Service most likely.

BTW.. if you intend to only use the inverter for a few little things like you have drawn and do not want inverter power available on various outlets... then what you have drawn should work... just get rid of the transfer switch and use one outlet into the CTC for AC power.

I also ordered from the same company and am hoping to pickup my 7x14 sa from continental cargo in Oregon in a couple weeks.
I cheated and ordered the 30 amp electric and insulated ceiling with finished panels. I've seen the factory unit like this and it looks great. I opted for the single axel as I also don't plan to carry much and weight is important. I'll post pics later, Thanks for all of your helpful and informative posts.

sodatrain wrote:Hey Folks-

I'm new to the site and have been reading/lurking for a couple weeks now. I've waffled between buying a cargo van and as someone pointed out with a cargo trailer and the F-150 I drive, I can disconnect the trailer and drive around w/o it as desired. It also solves the problem of storing/paying for/insuring my truck while in the van.

Backing up a bit...I'm keenly interested in trying out a different way of life that sheds the rat race - but need to co-exist with it for a while (kids, alimony etc).

I'm in the planning phase and am currently thinking of taking next summer (2018) off and spending a few months giving it a try. I'm strongly leaning Cargo Trailer Conversion and am working on dialing in the trailer size, features etc. based on price/quality etc.

Current thought is 7x12 Single Axle with 7' interior height (I'm 6'6" 300lbs) with v-nose.

Couple questions I'd love opinions on!

• Rear ramp or barn doors. I think I like the idea of doors but almost everyone seems to have the ramp. I have no "toys" per se to haul. Seems easier to have the doors and maybe a smaller footprint to open/operate the doors?
• 7' wide or 6' wide. If I go 6' wide I can get a Wells Cargo locally in Single Axel but if I want 7' I'll probably end up getting it somewhere (Continental Cargo) else as it seems there aren't a lot of 7' wide in single axle - and I'm trying to keep the cost down. Looking at 7' wide to have a decent size murphy bed on it's side near the back. I also want to be able to fold the bed up and slide my fat bike in. Probably a fold-down table on the back/underside of the Murphy. Would love a bench sort of design opposite it to use in tandem with the fold down table... and accommodate #3 below Example of a murphy bed / bench setup that seems pretty close
• I'd like to have some form of bunks (perhaps fold up and opposite the murphy bed for my two kids to join me at times. This wouldn't get used a ton but having a space for them is important. Any ideas on how to accommodate this?
• If I'm going to try it out for 3-4 month (summer) is it worth getting solar now or should I see how it goes? I don't see shore power as part of the plan.
• I def want some comfortable sitting/desk area.
• Are electric brakes enough or do you really want self-adjusting brakes? I've seen reference to self-adjusting several times. Asked two people about em and they scratched their heads.
• Thinking the usall spring axel w/drop is fine - maybe get a kit to lift it up.

Other bits:

• Plan to be generally in the western US. Hope to mountain bike. Hike. sit in the woods. read. maybe finally start meditating regularly. I don't expect to be trying to sleep in the city much but surely some.
  Deff will remove the plywood and insulate the walls, ceiling, and floor. TBD On how much. At least 1" everywhere if not more.
• Trying to keep it pretty basic overall. Bed, storage, water jug mounted above a bowl for a sink, some sort of cooking surface (propane camp stove?), some sort of toilet. Laptop for entertainment and possibly work.
• Probably will order it with two roof vents (let them cut thru the ceiling) and put an AC on one (I don't like hot)
• Extended tongue, side door with RV handle
• A few windows - maybe even a concessions window.
• Stabilizers

Enough for now!

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

Sounds like some good ideas. I had a 6’x10’ Cargo trailer built of aluminum with 14”x 20” window in side door and 20”x 30” windows on either side. Had a drop tail gate. Only problem we only have a 2017 Equinox with 4 cylinder engine. Trailer ended up being 1463 pounds. Too much for the vehicle.
Not too happy. Priced changing vehicles to a Chev Colorado but was going to lose over $7000. So dropped that idea. Unfortunately we have sold the trailer at a significant loss. Guy picks it up today.
Anyway, best of luck on your ideas!
Oh yes, think about the trailer width re mirrors. Six foot was good, seeing down the side with regular mirrors, seven might need longer mirrors or extensions. Good luck!


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dbuettner wrote:I also ordered from the same company and am hoping to pickup my 7x14 sa from continental cargo in Oregon in a couple weeks.
I cheated and ordered the 30 amp electric and insulated ceiling with finished panels. I've seen the factory unit like this and it looks great. I opted for the single axel as I also don't plan to carry much and weight is important. I'll post pics later, Thanks for all of your helpful and informative posts.

Cool! do you happen to have pics of the factory installed insulation? I had the impression, probably from the forums, that they would do a poor job. Sales guy maybe even agreed with me. who knows. What did it look like in the factory unit? What R will you have on walls and ceiling?

Curious - why did you end up ordering from them?

Glad you are finding my posts informative... I'm certainly learning as I go - thanks to all the smart people here!

flboy wrote:
No need for a transfer switch between the Generator and the Shore power. They are mutually exclusive if they plug into the same input to the CTC.

Ah! Awesome. Much simpler. I started there then talked myself into something more complicated... rookie mistakes from googling! Most of the posts seemed to assume you wanted to have both sources of power running at once... I don't. 100% ok with one or the other. I will happily use the 30A inlet/receptacle that the shower power will plug into for the Generator too... right? Will just need to get some male 15A to female 30A cord to connect the generator to the 30A inlet right?

flboy wrote:This is how my CTC is wired... just for some ideas... This could be done with an all in one panel... but you'd still need another panel for the transfer between Shore/Gen and Inverter... That would come after the all in one.

"Need another panel..." ?? For your situation or mine?

flboy wrote: I did mine as separate components (breaker panels, converter/charger, DC distribution) for "repair" reasons.... Converter/charger is the most likely module to fail since it contains all the electronics.... I can replace that piece without unhooking everything else (only 4 wires) for half the price compared to if I had to replace the whole all in one and unhook.hookup all the circuits. I am always thinking about servicing things later... comes from my days as a Field Engineer... makes a difference how quickly you can perform a repair on the ramp. Now hopefully things never break.. but sooner or later, they will and they always fail at the worst times.. Just been my experience anyhow.

Totally can appreciate that! A bit of an engineer myself!

flboy wrote:BTW.. if you intend to only use the inverter for a few little things like you have drawn and do not want inverter power available on various outlets... then what you have drawn should work... just get rid of the transfer switch and use one outlet into the CTC for AC power.

That's the plan! Trying to keep it somewhat simple.

I updated the drawing to reflect a few changes:

- removed the transfer switch, just showing the 30A inlet
- removed the outlet after the invereter before the laptop as the laptop will plug into the portable/car 300W inverter I already own.
- drew a box around what's in/on the CTC and showed the power sources outside of the box
- added a cut off switch to isolate the batter from the plugged in yet off usage.

Also... big plug for Google Drawings! Super easy to use and basically Visio online. Def a solution for those on a Mac. (I use both).



- Next step - if this looks correct, is to make it more detailed. pos/neg wiring, make sure it's fused properly etc.

@FLBOY - holy cow are you helpful. I really appreciate you sharing your time and your knowledge on this stuff!!

You are welcome. What you have drawn for what you want to do will work fine and last a long time.

I mentioned the other panel if you were to use an inverter to feed the same outlets as the Shore or Gen.... Not needed in your setup.

Good luck with your build!

flboy wrote:You are welcome. What you have drawn for what you want to do will work fine and last a long time.

I mentioned the other panel if you were to use an inverter to feed the same outlets as the Shore or Gen.... Not needed in your setup.

Good luck with your build!

sweeeeeet!

Working on running wiring for the 12v. Bought some 50' and 100' spools. The stuff is an absolute mess from being wound around the spools. Are there good ways to deal with it??


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sodatrain wrote:Working on running wiring for the 12v. Bought some 50' and 100' spools. The stuff is an absolute mess from being wound around the spools. Are there good ways to deal with it??


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Lots of tiny zip ties. Ugh!

Zip ties are your friend and keep it tidy. Just be sure you are done and it all works as planned before you put all of them on. I now just put enough zip ties on to hold things in place to start. I have had to undo a few very neat wire bundles in my day fixing my mistakes or to add additional wires.

Of course if you will be covering the wires before a full electrical test like in a ceiling or wall.. tie them up good. Just do continuity check to make sure all is well.


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X2 on what flboy said about transfer switches. Where I work there are many field test trailers with onboard generators and automatic transfer switches. They are trouble some. I have replaced many of them. Simply plugging in your power cord to a generator or a RV outlet is simple and safe!!! Last thing you want when you are on the road is trouble.

Have fun!!! Enjoy and make memories!!!

Hey Sodatrain,
I'm with Don and low on the 30 amp input, no xfer switch. I have a genny on board, so plug in there or at shore power. Then you can charge/convert, power A/C etc.. Also, if you are using a RV 120/12volt reefer, 10g as short as possible direct to the battery. Put some twists in the black/red wires to cancel elect. noise, and in line fuse on red/ pos. wire, and black to neg post of battery. 120vac wires to 15amp breaker. There is a on/off switch at cold control. You can wire tow vehicle to charge trailer battery and power reefer while in transit and use the master cutoff switch to turn off all other 12v while in transit. If you are a brave man you can fire up the genny and run the A/C in transit. I haven't, yet. But I know people with Winnebago's who run the rooftop while traveling. I have a small 140w inverter on board as well, but haven't used it so far.

McDave

Lots of progress to share. It's crunch time.... hitting the road Monday.

Hit a snag - needing to replace one of the windows. It's a vertically oriented 15x30. Ordered one online and sat on it. Just went to install it and it seems different than the original window. It's as if it's about 1/8-1/4 inch too big and won't fit in the hole.

I assumed a 15x30 RV window is pretty standard. Apparently not.

Any ideas? I'll be calling the trailer MFG and the replacement window MFG in the AM.

I have the inside bracket off. It does seem to have a little extra rim but not one that can come off / be reattached after insertion.

Sorry... Freaking out a little. The old window is long gone (oops) and this one isn't just sliding in as expected.

I measured the window and it's exactly 15x30". The difference seems to be the corner radius and that's not letting the window seat.

I wonder if I can just remove those metal corner bracket seen in the frame corner?! Screw heads also sticking out getting in the way.