A/C FOR CARGO TRAILER CONVERSION

[Huddlehut27]

We are in the process of converting a cargo trailer into a camper for us, but undecided on a/c. can you tell me what you have installed? thank you!

[cg_ops]

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-B57915-X ... B00SQ2GEJA

From what I read, it's pretty much the gold standard between price, capability, reliability, and ease of installation. (So it's not the best, necessarily, but checks all the right boxes)

[McDave]

I'm running the Coleman Mach 13,500 btu with the heater. It works very well for me even in +100f. If you don't have shore power you'll need at least a 2000wt generator. The heater works OK down to around 30f but not much more in my insulated 6 x 12 toy hauler. Easy to install, and basically maintenance free 3yrs so far. I love it!


McDave

[Huddlehut27]

Thank you. We actually went with a mini split system.

[Huddlehut27]

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-B57915-XX1C0-Brisk-Polar-Conditioner/dp/B00SQ2GEJA

From what I read, it's pretty much the gold standard between price, capability, reliability, and ease of installation. (So it's not the best, necessarily, but checks all the right boxes)

I see you installed a window on your cargo trailer - any tips for someone trying to do this with no real idea what they are doing except for watching youtube videos? thanks

[McDave]

Try this...
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=32504

McDave

[McDave]

Thank you. We actually went with a mini split system.

If you get a chance, please share your installation plans/procedure and let us know how it works out.
Thanks.

McDave

[flboy]

I have been looking at those minisplits for some other applications. I was very interested to see how relatively easy they are to install these days. They come with the refrigerant lines to install, but the system is apparently slightly overcharged to compensate when the lines are filled after installation by opening the valves on either end in the evaporator and compressor/condenser sides. So a layman can install with no need for manifolds, vacuum pump, and access to refrigerant. The refrigerant lines can be installed with just a wrench. They must have a dessicant dryer somewhere inline or maybe just the air in the lines is not enough to cause any issues? Maybe they have always been that way to install and I am just figuring that out?

In any case, I have seen several recent applications in travel trailers where they put the outside unit on trailer tongue and evaporator unit just inside up near the roofline. Very clean lookin installs and highly spoken of. Also, many options in BTU selections to match the cooling needs and you can get them with some seriously high SEER ratings. Of course, you pay for that.

If I ever do another CTC build, I'd seriously take a look at those. Mainly because you get to keep the roof vent for a Maxxair fan but also for the scalability and efficiency and cutting no additional holes in the perimeter or roof.

I recently had a new heat pump installed at my house and it came the same way with the system pre-charged and sealed with valves to open up after the lines installed. 10 years ago, I don't remember that being the case?

I am very interested to see how Huddle's install experience goes also. Good stuff!



Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[McDave]

I recall the compressors being filled/ pressurized with nitrogen to prevent air/moisture contamination during storage/shipping and purging the evap, side with nitrogen and new filter dryer, then pulling a vacuum for several hours before charging with Freon. Things have changed, thankfully.

McDave

[cg_ops]

Just installed the dometic heat coil for the Brisk Air II. SUPER easy install, I was able to do it myself as a 1-armed person

The reviews mirror my experience so far: super easy install. Underwhelming heat, but that's to be expected given the size and energy draw for the unit. It's able to keep the interior comfortable at 30-50* in my 24x8.5.7.5 trailer

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Brisk-No ... 5-fkmrnull