Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

McDave wrote:Wow!
Is there anything sexier than fringe? I think NOT! You can be a 1 Bike Parade everywhere you go. The tan leather really does stand out. My leather is black and 20yrs old now, but in it's day it drew a crowd. Here is a few shots of the Chief and the Harley. Not the best pics but I'll wash them up and send some better ones someday.


McDave

That's a pretty cool airbrush on the Vulcan Drifter tank! I had a 2002 Vulcan Classic before my Vintage, it was a great bike!

Good Eye! They were great bikes. Nothing wore out but tires.

McDave

Well, I new this wouldn’t be fun, but. . .

got a jump on it today.

1” closed cell rigid XPS




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Walls insulated, R5 closed cell rigid foam, some cabinet framing, 115V 30A shore power/electrical service finished; next up, ceiling insulation and 12VDC work for vent fan and LED lighting.



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chiefvintage, Howdy;

Lookin' good!

hank

See? That didn't take long at all. Couple more weeks like that and you'll be stylin'.
Nice job.

McDave

McDave wrote:See? That didn't take long at all. Couple more weeks like that and you'll be stylin'.
Nice job.

McDave

The ceiling is only 1/8" luan so should be fairly easy to drop. I actually like this vinyl wrapped interior skin, cleans up really well. Didnt even realize it was vinyl until I had grime and smudge marks all over it, and figured I'd just paint it, but it cleans right up with a little dish detergent.

Progress slowed a bit last few weeks, but added some cabinets and vinyl plank flooring



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Next up is bathroom and plumbing. Here is my plan for the water system, pretty straight forward, planning to use PEX 1/2" red/blue tubing with sharkbite fittings all around with stop valves at toilet, shower and sink. Anything missing? Feel free to chime in!

Schematic looks good, except I do not see a drain valve for holding tank on schematic. You will need a drain for the tank.


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You may want to add tees/valves so that you can drain the pressure side of hot and cold water for winterizing. You are using a tankless water heater, so this probably doesn't apply, but if you add antifreeze for winterizing you may want to put bypass lines/valves to so that antifreeze doesn't "sit" in your water heater.

flboy wrote:Schematic looks good, except I do not see a drain valve for holding tank on schematic. You will need a drain for the tank.


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Right now I’m leaning towards a couple portable 7-gallon fresh tanks since I’ll rarely be doing any boondocking. Good advise though


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I have a tankless water heater and I only have the hot from the heater going to the shower. In fact, the heater came with a shower wand and 4' of hose. So if you want a cold shower just leave the ignitor switch off. There are controls for flame size and water flow that allow you to go from luke warm (low flame, hi H2o) to scalding hot (hi flame, low H2o). The wand has a on/off control. My sink backs up to the shower so I just put a tee at the heater output before the shower hose and only ran to hot valve at sink. Again, if you want cold just leave the ignitor switch off. There is also a tee there going to the toilet supply. When I winterize, Just drain fresh tank and add 2-3gals of pink RV anti freeze. Then open the shower valve till you see the pink, same for sink and toilet. Turn power off to pump. Then open the vacuum breaker thumbscrew located at the underside of the heater and open the shower control. Allow the wand to hang down. All the fluid will drain from the heater and sink line. Open the sink valve and the toilet supply and they should also drain, you will hear gurgling. To protect black /grey tanks, empty and flush out well. Then add1-2 gallons RV anti freeze down the appropriate drain and toilet. Then add just a little to the toilet bowl so the flapper seal is kept wet. If there is no liquid on top of the flapper gasses can enter there. Now all lines should be empty or have anti freeze. That's it. Easy peasy.

McDave

Nice looking trailer!

Do you have any pictures of the frame at the axles? Did you remove any floor boards in that area?

I'm curious how much fab work would be required to narrow the axles

rebar wrote:Nice looking trailer!

Do you have any pictures of the frame at the axles? Did you remove any floor boards in that area?

I'm curious how much fab work would be required to narrow the axles

Haven’t done any mods to floor or frame, not needed for my application. The floor joists are 24” OC, and I’m installing 21” waste tanks to fit between the joists. This trailer could easily be lifted if needed using lift blocks between the axle mounts and frames, it has standard Dexter torsion axles.


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