Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Putting together the specs on our new 7x12 and not sure about the different types of leveling/ stabilizing options as well as where to put things. I'm thinking about putting 5K scissor jacks on the rear and 1K fold-down jacks in the front.
Is this a good setup or am I missing something? Didn't seem like it would be stable enough with only the rear lifts.
M

Why not just put the scissors all the way around? I recently used some temporary jacks on the back side with only my tongue lift thing up front, and it was pretty stable like that. The problem was that I wasn't able to level it and I noticed it actually slightly Twisted the trailer such that my side door had noticeable catch to it, if that makes sense. So I think just for the sake of leveling you probably need it on all four corners. Those scissor jacks come in sets of 4 as well. The best price I found so far is about $80 on Amazon.

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I would have never thought to have the rear jacks but my sales person recommended them for only 50.00 so I did, at first I used them all the time but after a
while the front lift turn jack got to the point
it was so hard to lower and raise the front that I decided to install a power lift and it was the best thing I have added to my trailer.

I whish I knew that from the beginning or I would have had one sooner, I bought it at harbor freight for around 130.00.
before I just got used to not using the rear jacks it's only me and I got used to it being a little shakey ?
now I just unhook the trailer and pull the truck forward just enough to let the front down then deploy the rear jacks and power it up tight normally has it as level as I need.

Not knowing what you have or how placed, it comes down to a fulcrum thing. You want 10% on the tongue for easy towing (give or take according to opinion). The rest is according to how you load. So, if you have 10% forward, then it seem natural to have equal or stronger forward. Given you will have tongue support and again not knowing what you tongue is capable of, it also leads back to equal supports. Why rely on the tongue jack? Can you? Certainly if your tongue frame is accordingly built. Then you have 3 point stabilization. Could it work? Of course it can, if done right.

Far too many questions of weight distribution to answer directly. Me... I do 4 point equal and not rely on the tongue jack. It only adds to making it stabile. If done right, and the frame is strong enough, you could actually level from those.

There is a balance of how stiff to make our frames and allowing flexibility so things don't just break apart. That's a science I'm still learning.

My 2 cents and worth each penny.

All good points so thanks everyone. I'm thinking the 4 point scissor system might be the way to go. It's about the same price as 2 from the dealer so might as well get 4.

Pick up a rechargeable impact driver as well. Then it will only take seconds to deploy or retract each jack and levelling would be a breeze. All that stuff could come in handy if you have a flat tire as well...

McDave

If your having the trailer built. See if they can tuck those up in the frame.
So they aren't hanging down and catching the ground as you are going through dips and gutters.


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Our trailer came with a tongue jack and a scissor style stabilizer jack at each corner. Not that it matters regarding stabilizing the trailer but I replaced the tongue jack with a fold up jack. I removed the front 2 stabilizer jacks as I felt they were not needed. That left me with an adjustable tongue jack and stabilizers at each rear corner. Easy to level and stabilize.

I'm about to remove the 2 rear stabilizers as well. Provided the frame and springs are stiff enough (they are) all you need is 3 points for leveling and stabilizing. The tongue jack, one wheel and 1 adjustable jack at 1 rear corner. I'm adding a rear tongue jack that I can install on one corner or the other as needed. Each rear corner will have a small receiver tube welded to the frame. Wherever I park the trailer, the rear jack will be installed on the lower side to level and stabilize the trailer.

Level side to side using blocks under tires the front to back with tongue jack and stabilizers.


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* I hardly ever use my stabilizers (self-built pipe-clamp stabilizers), since:

• 1) I don't even unhook my truck 90% of the time (because my Weight Distribution spring bar has so much pre-load on it, that it's a bear to get off and back on), and the truck/trailer is so level as towed, then why should I bother?,
• 2) When I do unhook, I have a scissor jack AND removable tongue jack both mounted in front, so I'll simply lower the front end, drop my two self-regulating pipe-clamp stabilizers to the ground, then lift the tongue until it's level (actually with a 5 degree rearward tilt, for better water run-off),
• 3) The pads where I camp (state parks) are so level, no adjustment are needed at all.

* Of course, since I camp solo, and don't care if the trailer has a marked tilt to it, leveling isn't a necessary set-up item. I made the pipe-clamp units for near-effortless use. They'll support 1200 lbs easily, so combined with the 2400 lb scissor jack under the tongue (+1000 lbs more, if the detachable tongue jack with jockey wheel was also used), I could lift the whole thing off the ground, if leveling became difficult.

* I've only set-up on uneven ground once, on a day-trip, so I tried using my old Chevelle bumper jack, in conjunction with the aforementioned items, to level it, just to see how difficult it would be. I pulled the trailer onto a hummock, with the scissor jack and the right trailer wheel about level. After releasing the the right side stabilizer to touch solid ground, I adjusted the scissor jack so I got my favored 5 degree tilt; then, using my bumper jack (I could also have used my Hi-Lift), I raised the left rear to just above level, and released it, too. When the bumper jack was removed, the trailer sat level, all around. Personally, I don''t think that it was worth the minimal effort.

I recommend scissor jacks on all 4 corners. I ordered mine with just two in the rear and it still wasn’t as stable as I would like. Ordered two more jacks for the front and luckily I had a buddy who has a steel shop so he has able to break and punch some plates he zipped onto the frame and then I bolted the jacks on. Now they are easy to remove if I mess one up or need more clearance. Now I just wish I could unbolt the ones in the rear!