Domed vs flat roof

[waterfallrunner]

Keep saying it but we're getting close to pulling the trigger. One last hang-up is that I'm torn between the 2 roof styles. I'm really drawn towards the domed not only for the obvious water runoff but for what seems like a better interior feel with the head room. We're looking at either a 6"6' or 7' inside height.
Any thoughts on the 2 styles? My leading contender for trailer build no longer does the domed style roof so I'm back to looking at other manufacturers.
What to do, what to do.
M

[John61CT]

Need flat for roof rack solar.

Go higher then make an internal arch with your inner wood / insulation lining?

Or airline style storage in the corners. . .

[tony.latham]

I'm really drawn towards the domed not only for the obvious water runoff...

I hear people say that over on my side of the (teardrop isle). In reality, it's nearly impossible to find ground that's level in two directions. If you do, give the tongue jack a crank.

Tony

[Modstock]

My concern with the domed style was the fibreglass piece in the front being thin and breaking when a branch hit it.
I checked out a interstate trailer dealer and the newer units seemed to have a thicker piece but the last one they showed me, it was a longer nose piece and was very thin.
You can knock on it with your hand to tell.

My decision came down to overall height to fit in my 8ft shop door .
Also the flat roofs no longer need that fiberglass piece at the front .

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[onehoser]

i prefer the look of a rounded roof but ended up with flat roofs on both trailers. what i do like about the flat roof is it's easy to stash things on the roof, like paddles, fishing rods etc when at camp, and it's easy to insulate and trim the interior. i haven't mounted my solar panels on the roof because most of the time we're in the shade so it's easier to move the panels into the sunny spots.

[rjgimp]

Need flat for roof rack solar.

Really? How curious... I have seen many many solar setups mounted on non-flat roofs.

[John61CT]

I suppose that they thought the "semi flex" panels would last as long as rigid ones?

[rjgimp]

I'm not even referring to any specific type of panel. Does that matter? You clearly implied that it was not possible at all to mount solar on anything but a flat roof and that is just factually incorrect.

[RJ Howell]

I curved the roof purposely for added strength. I'm on the foamie side of building and didn't want excessive struts to hold it in place. I also want to push the limits a bit as I built to learn. I have a single strut at the seam of 2 panels. Holding fine. Short of building a flat roof with a dip in it, I doubt you ever hold rain on it.. I doubt you'll ever get you trailer that level.. I can easily (with a couple foam blocks) tie my canoe on top or make a rack and mount my solar panel up there, but I don't. For me it's a height thing and clearance amongst the tree branches or simply setting the camper in the shade and panel is on the ground in the sun.

I don't see one or the other as better, each having reasons mainly that are yours. With a standee, I'd be leaning curved or angled (at least forward) to let the tree branches roll off vs. catching..

Enjoy the build!

[dirtsailor2003]

My Cargomate is flat roofed. Nice as the roof is one piece no seams to open up and leak.

Flat ceiling is easier to insulate and finish. Easier to trim cabinets and framing too.

Pro for domed would be if you lived in snow country all the time. We get snow but not like we used too. On my flat roof I just consider it added insulation when it’s there.


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[deceiver]

My 14 ft aluminum has a flat roof and about 60,000 miles on it. It stays outside, with a tarp on it in the winter and sometimes has 2-3 ft of snow on it. It's one piece and I've never had a leak or structural issue and don't expect to ever. When I bought it I had the choice of regular or structural to be able to walk on it. I just chose the regular one. My interior is about 7 ft so It feels roomy enough.

One point though... the higher it is, the lower the gas mileage. Weight is relatively irrelevant if you've got a decent vehicle. It's the wind resistance on the front, and in my opinion, mostly the back. My much heavier teardrop which was low cost me about 1-2 mpg. My lighter aluminum tall v nose cargo conversion costs me about 8 mpg.

[BC Dave]

Number of good points made; I have a 6x10 interstate with a curved roof. Has a fiberglass front curved piece. I would recommend them; good quality build, stand behind there product; have placed across N America, seem to have the best prices too! and stand behind there product. Bought mine in the fall on sale. Was a little jumpy when I bought it new but totally satisfied with that purchase.

It stays outside, with a tarp on when parked, in the winter and sometimes has 3 ft of snow on it also; tarp is a $10 sacrificial buffer layer; keeps the ice from directly freezing on the galv roof. One day I'll paint it with white RV roof urethane (or whatever it is). been like that for 10 yrs; all's good.

I think the curve really helps keeps water running off; and its structurally stronger; you do have to watch the front curved piece from hitting anything you drive under ...
… and it makes for more headroom in the middle; interior is just 6 ft but 6-2" in the middle; (…. always have to watch your head on the pedestrian side door frame)
… but tucks in behind the SUV, ( more aerodynamic shape?). Less likely to grab branches like a square corner.
also taller means you have to watch what you drive under and into like garages; mines under 7'; (6'-8"? seem to remember) just fits inside standard garage door …

Curved maybe; but not really; a little more challenging to work on … but if you think it through easy enough to find solutions.

Cheers bc dave

[Squigie]

A curved roof looks better and, given the same construction methods and materials, is arguably stronger.
I don't think a flat roof is much of a handicap, however, as long as it has some slope when the trailer is level.

The vast majority of trailers (of all types) spend more time parked than they do on the road or in a campsite.
If stored outside, drainage should be a consideration.


If you go domed, make sure it's enough to be beneficial, though.
I came back from a trip to NC in December, to find that the right tire on my tent trailer had gone flat. I was a little disappointed, since that was the tire that I had intended to turn into the spare tire, having just ordered two new tires and wheels for the trailer. But, I was also a little relieved. The slight dome on that roof is not enough (about 1.5" over 10 feet). The textured roof, alone, is worse; but...

The cover collects a lot of snow and ice that I end up having to clear off 3-5 times per winter. ...Unless the roof is sloped substantially via artificial means. The flat tire and high tongue resulted in a slope that was beneficial. I haven't had to clear it off at all this winter. But, it took jacking the tongue up more than a foot (standard practice), as well as one wheel dropping 5", to make that happen.

[deceiver]

Again, I've had this flat roofed trailer for 5 years now, 60,000 miles, left outside in Maine winters with a tarp on it. I doubt that it will ever leak. And, It handles three feet of snow most winters.

[Squigie]

That's great for you.
We all have our preferences.
I'd rather have a roof that sheds weight and water, than one that collects it.

There's more to it than just potential leaks, too.
Case in point:
My current tent trailer, again, has had three axle failures in its lifetime, while in possession of the previous owners.
It wasn't even moving for one of the failures.

It was overloaded during one of our excessively snowy winters.

2,000 lb Flex-ride axle (rubber 'spring' torsion axle)
1,536 lb dry weight (rated for 1,836 lb gross)
38" of slowly-accumulated snow on the 126"x81" roof -- that is, even by conservative estimates, in excess of 2,000 lbs of snow. (Likely over 3,000 lb.)

The rubber torsion 'springs' tore, releasing the spindle arms, and the trailer settled until the spindle arms stopped on the frame ... with the tires breaking through the floor and wheel well covers.

The 2,000 lb axle had somewhere north of at least 3,500 lbs on it (likely 4,500+ lbs), simply because the roof doesn't shed snow or ice.

If I don't clear the roof off during the winter, by the time there's about 18" of snow on the roof, the suspension is completely bottomed out. At that point, the floor and wheel wells are acting as bump stops, and taking the additional load.
...Not to mention the stress being put on the roof, walls, and attachment points.

For some of us, a roof that does not shed weight can be a problem.
I'm sure it could be a potential problem for someone living in Maine, too.


*(All three replacement axles under this trailer were ordered to Starcraft specs. [I still have all of the receipts and repair invoices.] They seem to be set up with the stops beyond the point at which the tires go through the floor. Dumb. But that wasn't the point. The point was that weight matters in some places, and a roof that doesn't shed weight can be a liability and massively overload your axle(s).)