7x16V Diamond Cargo conversion

[CL3]

This will be my second Diamond Cargo build, and third Toy Hauler. FLBOY's original Cargo Trailer Conversion was my first, and I was addicted to the concept hours after seeing it. Unfortunately a DUI totaled it. Them my first build was stolen before I really finished. Summation: I still don't know exactly what I want, so this build will have an eye toward modularity, or at least ease of disassembly. Plus I live on the coast so it will see use as an evacuation cargo trailer.

The two 15x30 windows are next to intended bunk beds
The two 30x30 windows are Emergency exits. The tongue is extended to allow a generator box, split A/C or Propane tanks.
The door is RV type, the walls and ceiling are 12" on center. It's otherwise pretty stock, and year down has commenced. Unfortunately, the 12" on center didn't happen on the nose area.

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[CL3]

First step will be to strip and insulate the walls. I'm planning to put 1" rigid insulation between the studs, foam the gaps and tape them. Then add add full sheets of rigid insulation over the walls and ceiling. Since I don't really know where I want everything (outlets, switches, lights, etc.), I plan to use Rivet Nuts mounted in the studs to allow easily changing out the full 4x8 sheets of insulation and some kind of facing board so I can change the layout a few times.
Although I want to have solar eventually, my plan is to use a Honda 2800i generator and an AC to DC converter until I've finalized heating, cooling, cooking appliances so Iv will know more accurately what components to buy.

If anyone has experience with modular walls, please share your experiences.

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[flboy]

That is a nice looking trailer! Going to be a great build I am sure.


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[CL3]

The big pain in the butt, insulating everything!
This is 1" (supposedly R6). Planning to add 3/4" of same, but in full 4x8 sheets horizontally and use some type of wall board or 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood screwed into the Riv-nuts mounted on the wall studs so I can "more easily" redo my inevitable errors. I've thought of going thicker Baltic ply and routing an overlap at the joints, but budget and my skills will probably nix that idea.

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[CL3]

I just had a eureka moment... I don't think I'll need the shower "when the bikes are INSIDE"!
Therefore I can move the shower to the cargo area and reuse those roughly 9sqft of floor for living space. The only problem... the windows are probably totally wrong now . Oh well, If we ever move, I'll be building another of these on a wider and taller chassis. Current under house space limited me to 75" inside height 7' width, and no room on top for solar panels (unless i got expensive stick ons).

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[CL3]

Insulation DONE and taped!
Next was to be removing those unsightly 1/4 - 3/4 gaps on driver's of the floor boards.
While removing the first two floor sheets, I discovered the REASON for the gaps... yes folks, a 3/4 thick sheet will abrade that shiny new insulation and tape as it comes out

I'm learning NOT to sweat the small stuff. If you have up to 3/4 gaps at one side of your floor sheets. DO NOT drive 2hrs round trip to pickup 5 sheets 3/4 Marine Grade plywood (stupid expensive during Hurricane season! Just remove the screws, center them and use new fastners/holes!

Anyone need 5 sheets of sanded 1 side 3/4 MARINE GRADE kiln-dried plywood?

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[Augie Dog]

I have a 8.5 X 18 Diamond Cargo and finding issues with gaps in the floor also. But the one thing that aggravates me is the rear 3 ft. of the trailer floor is slanted downward in alignment with ramp door. I have not seen that on any other trailers and trying to figure out why they did it to this one. I did not ask them to do it when I gave them building instructions. My plan is to put my kitchen in the rear and this will mess things up. I'm going to pull that section of floor up and see if I can level it out. I'm hoping I don't find they welded the frame that way.

[flboy]

Looking good Clint! I see the tight fit under the roof. Looking forward to see it come together.

[CL3]

I have a 8.5 X 18 Diamond Cargo and finding issues with gaps in the floor also. But the one thing that aggravates me is the rear 3 ft. of the trailer floor is slanted downward in alignment with ramp door. I have not seen that on any other trailers and trying to figure out why they did it to this one. I did not ask them to do it when I gave them building instructions. My plan is to put my kitchen in the rear and this will mess things up. I'm going to pull that section of floor up and see if I can level it out. I'm hoping I don't find they welded the frame that way.

That must be their standard for Auto hauler or something. If you move the shower back there, it'll drain well .
Such are the prices we pay when we go CHEAP.

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[flboy]

Clint, how's this project going? Hope all is well.