Handles

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Handles

Postby Mary C » Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:37 am

I haven't seen any discussion here about the handles on your cast Iron I was very lucky to have bought at an estate sale

120204 Neither has handles

I must admit I don't think coat hangers will work. I checked with HD and I searched and couldn't find any wire. but to be honest having two broken wrist bending heavy wire probably will be very difficult. any suggestions?

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Re: Handles

Postby wagondude » Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:25 am

Get a couple of "Ovegloves". They work as advertised for handling hot items. You can even pick up hot coals with them. I found a cheaper version at Aldi once, but the original works well and also has a version that blocks steam for a little more. If I get any more, I will buy the one that blocks steam.
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Re: Handles

Postby Sandyman » Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:20 pm

Try welding gloves. They are often cheaper and are as good as oven mitts. I use them when I am cooking outdoors with DO'S.

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Re: Handles

Postby bobhenry » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:47 am

If you really want to make bails for the pots, look at a good hardware store. They will have a rack with handy steel. Short length of angle, flat stock, and other forms. In that rack you should find 3/16+/- round rod. I used this for the jay hooks for my overhead pot and pan rack. You will have to bend the bail first. Try clamping an end to a small round object. The first thing that came to my mind was an 8 or 10 inch trailer rim. Clamp the one end with vise grips and form the rod around the object. Next run it thru the pan ears to access where you want your final bends to be at the ears of your pot. I would mark them with a marker. Next trap a small hex nut ( 5/16 maybe 3/8) in a vice so you can poke the wire thru and with pliers bend the loop hook for the ears. When I made my pot hooks I bent them around an older style pressure cooker weight making about an 1 3/4 maybe 2 inch bend. My point , the bigger the nut or form the larger the ear bend.
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Re: Handles

Postby KCStudly » Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:00 pm

I was thinking a piece of 1/8 inch SS welding rod, or maybe a little bigger; chuck a piece of 1/2 inch diameter in the lathe as a mandrel and wind a nice coil handle in the middle.
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Re: Handles

Postby S. Heisley » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:28 pm

What Sandyman and Wagondude said is your best bet. A wire bail would concentrate the the weight more on your wrists than picking the DO up from the sides. Have you noticed how some of the larger fry pans have a handle on each side? It's because it's easier to lift it that way. The weight is then more evenly distributed and isn't concentrated in one spot.

While both types of mentioned gloves will work, welding gloves will give you better/more coverage than Ove gloves. However, do what works best for you.
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Re: Handles

Postby Mary C » Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:57 pm

Sharon, I really want handles so I can hang the stock pot or stew pot over the fire. and hang the other one too for the smaller meals. plus I can put some hooks under the back of the galley to store them when camping. Just thinking.

Bobhenry, I will go some other places (Hardware) and see if I can find the wire. I am going to try to find someone to do the bending.

Sandyman and Wagondude I will have some heavy gloves but i have tried on welding gloves and well..........to be honest I haven't found any that were small enough for me. seems like I could put three fingers in one of the fingers. so an Oveglove might work I never have had one but knew I was going to get one before camping,

KC..........You know I am plain and simple I think, I will get my friend to do the bending,

Thanks for the input and suggestions any more will be welcomed!!!!
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Re: Handles

Postby viffer07 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:08 am

get a couple of 5 gallon pails and take the wire bails off thats what i have done
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Re: Handles

Postby bobhenry » Fri Aug 01, 2014 7:16 am

Speaking of handles.......

Is this type of handle brand specific to the older lodge pieces.

It reminds me of a pumpkin stem. It looks to have sprouted out one side and has re-rooted in the other.

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Re: Handles

Postby SmokeyBob » Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:34 am

bobhenry wrote:Speaking of handles.......

Is this type of handle brand specific to the older lodge pieces.

It reminds me of a pumpkin stem. It looks to have sprouted out one side and has re-rooted in the other.

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I've noticed that myself. Could be an interesting story. Why did they make it that way.
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Re: Handles

Postby Corwin C » Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:40 pm

bobhenry wrote:Speaking of handles.......

Is this type of handle brand specific to the older lodge pieces.

It reminds me of a pumpkin stem. It looks to have sprouted out one side and has re-rooted in the other.

Image


Just a guess, but the shape suggests that they are using a sand casting process and the blank that the sand is molded around has a tapered and likely flexible piece that will pull free of the sand without destroying the handle shape. When the iron is poured in, it becomes a solid part of the lid and then the sand is broken away to be recycled into another mold. It would be an easy way to have one less part in the mold.
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Re: Handles

Postby bobhenry » Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:48 am

But is this design brand specific ?????
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Re: Handles

Postby SmokeyBob » Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:30 am

bobhenry wrote:But is this design brand specific ?????

I have a 10" by Cabelas and the lid handle is shaped the same, but mine is smoother. The handle opening on mine is so small I have to use a lid lifter or grab the lid by the sides. When the DO is cold it would be nice, for me, to have a larger lid handle. But I guess, especially with the heaver lids, using a lid lifter or picking it up by the sides would work better.
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Re: Handles

Postby KCStudly » Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:30 pm

My guess is that it is a stress relief issue. If the handle grows and shrinks at a different rate due to it being out in the air, by being fixed at both ends it could develop enough stress to crack, so by alleviating that stress by allowing it to free float, it can grow and shrink at its own pace and not develop any stress.

Break the joint because it would break itself anyway.
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