Am I stark raving mad?

This is where the gals can have their very own discussions...

Postby Siouxgirl2 » Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:13 pm

Nope it didn't work and I followed the link's directions as close I could that Miriam gave me. I think it is because my computer is a MAC and it doesn't work like the windows program you all are using. If I had a Windows I could follow those steps pretty easy. I'm not sure how to do it from my IPhoto account. Anyone???
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:42 pm

Image

FINALLY!! I posted a picture of the steel frame.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:20 pm

Very cool Loyal that you have two teardrops to work on. It will keep you out of trouble. Anyway that's what I tell my husband when I want to start a new project.


Doris... my husband is out of town and was BEYOND speechless when I told him. Then I got tons of questions like "Where? How did you get it home? Where is it?" Then with a hint of sarcastic tone... "Great now there are TWO projects to get done." :lol:

At least he knows what I'm up to while he is away.

Loyal :)
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Postby Miriam C. » Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:21 pm

:thumbsup: :applause: Way to go Loyal! Looks like you got a great project! The Mac shouldn't be too different to post pictures....Haven't used one in a good 10 years though.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:40 pm

Actually, the frame has interior skins now screwed to the frame with partial cabinets completed as well. The interior skin had some minor water mildew damage from recent rain storms that I have been cleaning up and will sand down a little before staining.

I am trying to figure out if that butyl tape is the best to seal the interior skins to the cabinets (I've never used that stuff before) because that is where the water damage came from or if I should use a paintable lexel silicone product. Anyway... I haven't quite gotten that far yet so I haven't thought it through all the way.

The tongue is also added which isn't shown in that picture. There are basic doors with hinges and they need framed for windows. The galley hatch needs to be framed. I was given pieces foam insulation with the tear so I won't have to shop for that. I need to learn alot about sealing this thing. I bought Lexel, butyl tape, and Great Stuff so far. Any feedback on these?

Anyway, that is where it is at. I tried to post the profile of my other profile pattern/workbench but I took them with to many pixels and can't figure out on this new IMAC how to change the pixels to lower quality so my file size was too large.
:shock:
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Postby Miriam C. » Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:51 pm

;) http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=11199

If you scroll to "Picture Man." You will find Steve has been most helpful. Several picture resizers are posted. Hope it helps.
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Postby S. Heisley » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:58 am

After seeing your picture, Loyal, I would definitely take it somewhere and get it weighed. It may be pretty heavy and affect the way you can finish it. You're probably going to have to use a sandwiched 1/8" ply plan (1/8" ply-styrofoam-1/8" ply). How thick is the wall framing? It looks like it might be 2" thick?

Another thing that I thought of is that, if you're going to wire in lights, you may be better off to put the wires in special covers on the visible side of the interior walls. Otherwise, you'll have to drill holes in the metal to run the wires through and put some sort of protection between the wire holes and the wire so that the metal doesn't wear off the wire sheathing and cause problems. As long as you're aware of this and act accordingly, you'll be okay. :thinking:
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Postby afreegreek » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:09 am

Siouxgirl2 wrote:Actually, the frame has interior skins now screwed to the frame with partial cabinets completed as well. The interior skin had some minor water mildew damage from recent rain storms that I have been cleaning up and will sand down a little before staining.

I am trying to figure out if that butyl tape is the best to seal the interior skins to the cabinets (I've never used that stuff before) because that is where the water damage came from or if I should use a paintable lexel silicone product. Anyway... I haven't quite gotten that far yet so I haven't thought it through all the way.

The tongue is also added which isn't shown in that picture. There are basic doors with hinges and they need framed for windows. The galley hatch needs to be framed. I was given pieces foam insulation with the tear so I won't have to shop for that. I need to learn alot about sealing this thing. I bought Lexel, butyl tape, and Great Stuff so far. Any feedback on these?

Anyway, that is where it is at. I tried to post the profile of my other profile pattern/workbench but I took them with to many pixels and can't figure out on this new IMAC how to change the pixels to lower quality so my file size was too large.
:shock:
if you are using iphoto, click on the picture then go to the bar at the top and click 'share' then click 'email' then select 'small' from the menu.. then click 'compose' and this will bring up an email with your picture on it, then just drag the picture onto your desk top.
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Postby S. Heisley » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:13 am

It sounds like its a lot more done than the pic that I looked at. I'd still get it weighed before you do much to it.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:22 am

if you are using iphoto, click on the picture then go to the bar at the top and click 'share' then click 'email' then select 'small' from the menu.. then click 'compose' and this will bring up an email with your picture on it, then just drag the picture onto your desk top.


Thank you that is VERY helpful. I will try that.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:28 am

I'd still get it weighed before you do much to it.

How does one weigh it beyond when you title it? It isn't ready to be titled and registered yet even though it is interior skinned out and cabinets are almost done. I know it is heavy than some but my van has a tow weight of 3500# and it surely isn't close to that since the Rondack which is quite a bit larger and taller (even though wood) is around 1900# dry weight.

I think we will run the electrical through the metal. I imagine drilling a hole through the frame and running a small conduit type pipe through. I'm not sure yet though. My husband is an electrical contractor so when he returns from Alaska I'm going to ask him for his recommendation on that.

Thanks for the input,

Loyal
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Postby afreegreek » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:34 am

Siouxgirl2 wrote:
I'd still get it weighed before you do much to it.

How does one weigh it beyond when you title it? It isn't ready to be titled and registered yet even though it is interior skinned out and cabinets are almost done. I know it is heavy than some but my van has a tow weight of 3500# and it surely isn't close to that since the Rondack which is quite a bit larger and taller (even though wood) is around 1900# dry weight.

I think we will run the electrical through the metal. I imagine drilling a hole through the frame and running a small conduit type pipe through. I'm not sure yet though. My husband is an electrical contractor so when he returns from Alaska I'm going to ask him for his recommendation on that.

Thanks for the input,

Loyal
I got a trailer weighed at the garbage dump. here they charge by weight so you drive over a scale going in and out so they know how much to charge you..
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:38 am

After seeing your picture, Loyal, I would definitely take it somewhere and get it weighed. It may be pretty heavy and affect the way you can finish it. You're probably going to have to use a sandwiched 1/8" ply plan (1/8" ply-styrofoam-1/8" ply). How thick is the wall framing? It looks like it might be 2" thick?


It is 1 inch thick.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:39 am

Good idea on the garbage scale. I'm going to wait until I have trailer lights on to do that though. I don't like driving around the freeway without lights.
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Postby Siouxgirl2 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:42 pm

I'm posting a few more details on this framing so far. The trailer is framed with 1" square tubing (1/16" wall). The frame is 58" wide and the length 9'6" or 58" wide and 114" long. The doors are 26" x 36" with a small radius in the upper corner.

The floor is constructed out of 1/2" exterior grade plywood sandwiching 2x2's and 1.5" styrofoam insulation with rubberized undercoating.

I was looking on-line trying to find out the weight of the metal tubing so I could compare that to the weight of a traditional wood frame but haven't found it yet. Does anyone know where posts the weight per linear foot?

Loyal
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